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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Electric Dryer: SDE515DAYW -- ran great, now suddenly won't run.

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Maytag Electric Dryer: SDE515DAYW -- ran great, now suddenly won't run.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Sep 1st, 2010 09:28 pm
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I could post the wiring diagram, if that would help,

but I'd need the first 2 numbers of the serial number

There's (3) different series diagrams..



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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 06:05 pm
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helpmebehandy
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O,k I believe it's narrowed it down to the timer. I replaced the motor and it's doing the exact same thing. Odd thing was, once I replaced the motor and put it all back together, it came on by the start button! BUT it wouldn't shut off when I opened and closed the door. So I had to unplug it. When I plugged it back in again to test, it had the same symptoms as before (not starting, etc).

So I really want to test the timer before I purchase a new one. I have scanned the schematics that was in my machine, got a test meter, and took a couple photos of my timer.

Please if anyone can help tell me how to test this thing it would be so greatly appreciated. I think I've added all the necessary information and I believe it would be a snap for one of you experts to have a peek and gimme a rundown how I should test it. Even if it's just a quick bypass like this one I found: http://greensboring.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=12607

Serial Number: 18623173GE

My Scanned Schematics:


My Timer Photos:





Any help is greatly appreciated,

Helen

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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 06:32 pm
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helpmebehandy wrote: ... wouldn't shut off when I opened and closed the door. ...
Serial Number: 18623173GE

bad Door Switch

click on picture


series 12 & up Wiring Diagram




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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 08:59 pm
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helpmebehandy
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Well I thought I tested the door switch but perhaps my method was wrong. I had the door switch pushed in and jumpered the WH and YL together with a alligator clipped wire.

Did I do it right? How can I test the door switch?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 09:08 pm
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helpmebehandy wrote:  door switch pushed in and jumpered the WH and YL together with a alligator clipped wire.
well, then, the Motor won't stop when you open the Door ...  :headbang:



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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 09:24 pm
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helpmebehandy
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No. The door switch jumpering was the first thing I tested as per my very first post about this:

The internal light came on when we opened the door, but I still checked the breakers and they were fine.

 I also checked the door switch and its fine.


It's not something I did after I replaced the motor.



And if I held the door switch in, held the start, and tumble started humming... doesn't that omit the door switch not working?

I'm asking these questions and giving all my troubleshooting steps because I don't know what is or is not indicative of a particular part failure, or what specific steps I would take to rule it out.

As I said, once I put it all back together and hit the run and it started when I opened the door it didn't shut off. But the light also didn't come on which it always had, so I figured it was something else like the timer.

So how can I test the door switch if I didn't do it correctly? Or the timer?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 10:06 pm
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helpmebehandy wrote: ... So how can I test the door switch if I didn't do it correctly?
you'd need a test meter ...

try starting the Dryer with the Door open ...

 

if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
they have this meter w/battery

sometimes on sale for $ 1.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store


click on picture



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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 11:09 pm
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helpmebehandy
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Ok I tested it with the door open and it didn't start. I also hit the door switch a few times while I held down the start button.

I have scanned the schematics that was in my machine, got a test meter, and took a couple photos of my timer.


It's a Micronta 22-204U

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 Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 11:14 pm
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If you open the Door (Switch) while it's running, it should STOP.

 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 12:12 am
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Remember I can't get it to start running. I can only get the motor humming by holding down the start button & door switch at the same time, and forcing the drum to turn.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 12:22 am
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helpmebehandy wrote: ... it came on by the start button! BUT it wouldn't shut off when I opened and closed the door.
so... does it run or not ?



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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 01:00 am
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helpmebehandy
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helpmebehandy wrote: Odd thing was, once I replaced the motor and put it all back together, it came on by the start button! BUT it wouldn't shut off when I opened and closed the door. So I had to unplug it. When I plugged it back in again to test, it had the same symptoms as before (not starting, etc).
 
No it's not running.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 01:28 am
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some voltage tests may need to be done ..



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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 05:18 am
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have you checked the wires at the terminal block where the power cord is attached ?? if it started once after replacing the motor but not since, it could be a bad connection, ( even at the door switch ).......... start with the basics and work up to the fun stuff...............

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 04:36 pm
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Looks like the door switch is fine. I get continuity with the switch 'open' from YL to GY, and when I push it in I get continuity from YL to WH. there is never any continuity from GY to WH. Based on the schematics, it looks correct.

Tech51 I did all the basic tests before I even posted here. I wouldn't get the light to come on or anything if there was a bad connection at the power cord or termination.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 04:41 pm
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helpmebehandy
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Reverse that, its WH to YL and WH to GY, never any continuity from YL to GY. I can't edit my post so just posting again.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 14th, 2010 05:19 pm
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helpmebehandy
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Ok I just finished testing the timer for continuity based on the top Circuit function and the label on the timer.

When it was on I got continuity on
GY-YL
YL-OR
BK-RD
BK-PU
And even GY-PK when I turned the timer to the end of the cycle. There was no shorts that I could find from wires that I didn't think were supposed to have continuity.

When I had the timer in the off position, all those contacts were open and I tested each one across the others as well.

So it appears the timer is working as it should be. What would be my next troubleshooting step?

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 Posted: Sat Sep 18th, 2010 05:14 pm
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Let's start fresh..........with the drum removed and the door switch  contacts WH to YL,   Timed dry , no heat,  press the start button, does the motor start or ?????       In the schematics the dryer is in in the 'run ' condition....... Door closed, motor running and in air fluff/ no heat..........

Last edited on Sat Sep 18th, 2010 05:15 pm by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 03:28 pm
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helpmebehandy
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Setup like that, no it doesn't start, no clicks or anything just absolute silence when pushing the start button.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 05:13 pm
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helpmebehandy wrote: Tech51 I did all the basic tests before I even posted here. I wouldn't get the light to come on or anything if there was a bad connection at the power cord or termination.

Don't be too sure, power can do strange things sometimes..... verify with a meter that you are getting 120V form leg to neutral and 240 V from leg to leg. Also, shake the power cord while doing this and see if your voltage is fluctuating.



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