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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire Model GLTF2940FS1 Won't Spin

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Frigidaire Model GLTF2940FS1 Won't Spin  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 02:45 am
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MustLearnSamuraiWay
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I followed the advice on these posts

    http://applianceguru.com/forum2/2937.html

and

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/zenzoidman/sets/72157617111103075/

and, sure enough I found two quarters, a key, two stickers and a collar tab in the catch.  Unfortunately, after I removed these items and re-ran the machine, the water is draining (I can hear it whoosh out the drain hose), but the machine still won't spin. 

Two questions:

1) It sounds like I may need a new "speed control board"?  Is this the correct part?

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-gltf2940fs1+control+board-%3d%3di1191307&PartID=1191307

2) It looks like it's located in the back left hand side when viewed from front panel?  How can I verify this is the problem beforehand?  Break out the multimeter?  Do I access this part from the front -- seems like a stretch?

As always, many thanks.

--Brett

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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 02:56 am
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appl.tech.29501
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That is the correct part that you have linked.

Yes you access the board from the rear.

You first need to check all the connections at the board and some testing will need to be performed.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 03:22 am
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MustLearnSamuraiWay
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Thanks for the prompt reply.  According this post, testing can be done by:

Remove the front bottom quarter panel and get the tech sheet. It has a procedure for testing the motor and speed control board.
Does that sound right?  Looks like the tech sheet is taped to the inside of the machine.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 03:27 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Does the drum tumble? If not, see this page:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/29/troubleshooting-drive-motor-problems-in-a-frigidaire-front-loading-washer/



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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 03:42 am
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MustLearnSamuraiWay
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Thanks -- that's a very helpful link.  I'll run through the tests.   The drum does tumble.  The pump comes on, drains the water, and then continues to run during the time you would expect it to be spinning.  Then the pump shuts off, the tub refills and starts tumbling again (next cycle)...

Last edited on Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 03:47 am by MustLearnSamuraiWay

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 12:24 pm
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MustLearnSamuraiWay
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Latest update.  By following the test procedures, I discovered the last error code was "E47 -- board thinks the PTC circuit is open in spin."  The following posts appear to be relevant:

http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=19117&forum_id=2
http://www.applianceguru.com/forum2/15509.html
http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=18333&forum_id=2&jump_to=110811

I performed "test 9" and confirmed that the machine spins and the door opens immediately upon disconnecting the power.

In the table of "checks" and "corrections" for test 9, I see:

Check: "Remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC."

Correction: "Shorted or open.  Defective door lock assembly.  Reads around 1500 Ohms."  Defective control board."

When I measure the resistance at the two prongs of the PTC, I see 0 Ohms. 

I also performed the test that Willie suggests:   "You could make a test cord, (just a used cord off any old appliance with  push on connectors), and attach it to the wax motor and plug it in, if the wax motor is operating correctly it will extend to it's full on position in about 90 seconds."

This is indeed what happens.  Though it probably takes more like 2 minutes to fully extend (about 1/4").

So what's the fix?  Control board, wax motor, or door latch assembly??

Thanks!






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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 12:32 pm
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My rule of thumb for Frikkidaire front loaders: if the error code is in the 40's replace the door lock first.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 11:25 am
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MustLearnSamuraiWay wrote: When I measure the resistance at the two prongs of the PTC, I see 0 Ohms. 

I also performed the test that Willie suggests:   "You could make a test cord, (just a used cord off any old appliance with  push on connectors), and attach it to the wax motor and plug it in, if the wax motor is operating correctly it will extend to it's full on position in about 90 seconds."

This is indeed what happens.  Though it probably takes more like 2 minutes to fully extend (about 1/4").

So what's the fix?  Control board, wax motor, or door latch assembly??

"PTC, I see 0 Ohms", most likely have the meter on the wrong setting, especially since you opened the door lock assembly and actually saw the wax motor plunger move.

The 1/4" movement isn't enough, you have a wax motor that isn't preforming up to par, probably leaking and can't fully extend.   Needs to move almost a 1/2" to close the lock switch so the board knows the latch is fully locked.  To verify this put the wax motor back into its mounting position in the door lock assembly and leave the lock apart and connect power to the wax motor.   When the wax motor is extended that 1/4" that you say it moves, has it closed the set of contact points that the black plastic slide piece is suppose to close so the CCU knows the door is locked?

And as far as being in diagnostic mode and doing spin test and pulling plug, the door will open immediately, the PTC wax motor lock isn't used in the spin diagnostic test.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 06:56 pm
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Thanks very much for the replies. I ordered a complete latch assembly Sunday night -- the discussions on these forums all point that direction.

In the meantime -- I'm sure I'm going to get flak -- I soldered the "I'm locked" connectors and put the latch assembly back in place. Low and behold! The machine spins. The door actually *does* seem to lock during spin, but the plunger on the wax motor must not be fully extended (as Willie suggests) to engage the connectors.

A few questions:

1) I assume the only downside to soldering the connectors is safety -- someone could open the door and stick their head in there. Other concerns?

2) Willie, before ordering the whole assembly, I tried to find just the wax motor, but it was confusing to figure out what to order. The number printed on the motor does not seem to match a replacement part number? I seem to recall some discussion about this elsewhere, but I'm curious how you would have obtained just the wax motor? In any event, the difference in price -- $40 -- is cheaper than a divorce.

3) Finally, to follow up regarding the resistance. Ya, I'm an amateur. The meter was in "continuity mode", which I assumed would also read the resistance. When I measured just the resistance, I came up with about 400 ohms. Seem right?

--Brett

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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 12:36 pm
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1) I assume the only downside to soldering the connectors is safety -- someone could open the door and stick their head in there. Other concerns?
No other concerns, you know it's a safety issue, it's your problem if any injuries are caused by it.   As a professional tech there's no way I could leave it that way for a customer.

2) Willie, before ordering the whole assembly, I tried to find just the wax motor, but it was confusing to figure out what to order. The number printed on the motor does not seem to match a replacement part number? I seem to recall some discussion about this elsewhere, but I'm curious how you would have obtained just the wax motor? In any event, the difference in price -- $40 -- is cheaper than a divorce.
I've been an appliance repair tech for 25 years, with experience you learn these things.   Manufacture doesn't want you to be able to fix a part cheap, they want lots of MONEY!!!   The part# you want to just replace the wax motor is: 12002535, it's the wax motor that is used in Maytag front load washers to lock the door, so basically same application and duty cycle.

Here's the link to order just the wax motor.
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1063620

3) Finally, to follow up regarding the resistance. Ya, I'm an amateur. The meter was in "continuity mode", which I assumed would also read the resistance. When I measured just the resistance, I came up with about 400 ohms. Seem right?
400 ohms sounds on the low side and also as far as the length that the plunger extends, I just tested one today so that I could give you a better idea of how far the plunger should extend.   It only actually moves a total of 3/8".

Something is obviously wrong in some way with yours as you proved that by soldering the door locked sense contacts together, unless you have a broken wire or something wrong in the control system not sending 110 volts to the wax motor when the door is suppose to be locked.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 06:47 pm
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MustLearnSamuraiWay
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I know you guys can't wait to hear what I'm up to next.

My wife reported that the machine is still not spinning. Surprised, I went down to investigate. This is what I found out: the machine spins for "Quick" or "Touch Up", but not for anything longer, e.g., "Permanent Press", "Normal" or "Heavy". In the longer modes, the machine runs for 6 minutes and then restarts.

Soldering the connector, of course, caused an E48 error -- "board thinks the PTC circuit is closed", which I suppose is the cause of the new trouble -- probably is.

So we'll run "Quick" loads until the latch assembly arrives and take it from there.

Thanks for all your help.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 1st, 2010 11:35 am
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Well, never even thought of that problem.  The electronic control does expect to see the door unlock at some point and with the contacts soldered together it never sees it unlock.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 01:45 am
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MustLearnSamuraiWay
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Update: I installed the new latch a few days ago and the washer seems to be working properly.  Thanks for your help.  --Brett

PS: And a humble contribution to the United Samurai Beer Fund

Last edited on Fri Sep 10th, 2010 01:22 pm by MustLearnSamuraiWay

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 Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 01:04 pm
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