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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire Front Load Washer GLTF1040AS0

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Frigidaire Front Load Washer GLTF1040AS0  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2005 11:20 pm
   
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phil_in_CR
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My Frigidaire is on the fritz. When I turn it on, it fills. The door lock light comes on. It never starts tumbling like it should. When I advance the cycle by turning the unit off and moving the dial, I can get it to start draining, but not to spin. I don't hear any motor noise other than the pump when it is draining. It doesn't seem to advance through the cycles.

I live outside of the US, and am not sure there is any service here for this washer, so I need help!

Thanks!

Phil

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 12:37 am
   
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Mad Mac
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There was an issue with the timer stalling on these due to the motor control board. Anyone care to elaborate? I'll check the archives meantime....



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 04:01 am
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Many times, this is a bad speed control board. If you remove the front access panel below the door, you'll see the tech sheet in an envelope. It describes several tests you should do to confirm this.

Occasionally, I have seen a bad door latch cause this problem. The fact that the door lock light comes on is not, by itself, conclusive proof that all is well with the door latch assembly. Not saying that it is the problem, just that we can't rule it out at this point.

Wiring Diagram



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 04:58 am
   
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phil_in_CR
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Thanks for the response. I pulled the documentation from the machine, and started the section under "motor will not run." It says to check for a poor connection in the door lock switch or timer line switch. I found the door lock switch,and basically pushed and pulled to make sure the connection was good.

But what is the "timer line switch"? Is it the same as the "Line switch pull-on"? which I believe would simply be the pull on/off option on the main selector knob (for Whites/Colors/Short wash, etc.)?

I am assuming that it may not be as simple as a loose connection, so I will have to go buy a voltmeter/tester . . . I don't think my old Sears engine analyser will work for this. :)

By the way, can the speed control board be repaired? Techicians are relatively inexpensive here, it is not like the US where we just throw everything out because the labor is more expensive than the piece . . . here they fix just about everything!

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 01:34 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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phil_in_CR wrote:
I found the door lock switch,and basically pushed and pulled to make sure the connection was good.
You should use a meter to check the continuity of the switch. Meter help here:
http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

But what is the "timer line switch"? Is it the same as the "Line switch pull-on"? which I believe would simply be the pull on/off option on the main selector knob (for Whites/Colors/Short wash, etc.)?
That's correctum. This check is to ensure that you're getting voltage past the timer. Meter time again.

I am assuming that it may not be as simple as a loose connection, so I will have to go buy a voltmeter/tester . . . I don't think my old Sears engine analyser will work for this. :)
Good idea!

By the way, can the speed control board be repaired?
Everything can be repaired, it's a matter of cost and access to information. Getting schematic diagrams for these boards is an act of corporate espionage.

Last edited on Tue Sep 6th, 2005 05:06 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Fri Sep 9th, 2005 03:00 am
   
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phil_in_CR
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Ok, I have a multimeter, and a friend who knows how to use it. We tried to check the continuity in the door lock switch, but are not sure exactly how.

First, if the pump works, can we assume that these two switches must be working (the timer line switch and the door lock switch)?

If not, Second, how do you get at the timer line switch to check its continuity?

And, how do you check continuity on the door lock switch? I see two plugs, the one on the top has black and white wires, and the one on the bottom has a blue & white striped wire, and a black and red striped wire.

When we disconnected the plugs for the door mechanism, neither of them would shut off the door light. Only when we opened the dispenser drawer did the light go off.

Are my questions irrelevant?

Thanks!

Phil

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 Posted: Fri Sep 9th, 2005 04:52 am
   
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Mad Mac
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Taking it one step at a time...

If the pump runs, door and timer switches must be OK.

The door lock light is governed solely by the dispenser drawer. Ask Friggidaire, I can't see the relevance either.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 9th, 2005 01:59 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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And if the pump is running, then so is the timer line switch.

Do the other tests in the tech sheet to check out the motor. You're going to need, at a minimum, the speed control board. depending on your motor test results, you may need a motor, too. Link to speed control board:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1021692



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 Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:53 pm
   
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hobokenapp
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I have a new question about this model of washer.  Mine has worked without a problem for at least a year, and probably for the three years it's been in commission.  Now it washes fine, but when it goes into the spin cycle with any load, it makes a thunderous vibrating noise.  I tried rotating the empty drum manually and there was no problem.  My super opened the bottom panel and ran it to triage it and said that the 'legs' are fine, and that he thought that it might have a problem with the front guide.  He didn't sound optimistic, however, and I'm giving it until tomorrow before I call a professional. 
So I have two questions:

1) Is there any more information I can get before calling a repairman?
2) What's the best estimate of my probability of having to replace this?


Thanks.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 11:09 pm
   
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Pegi
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Closing this thread as it is old and un-secured...please start a new topic and re-post your question...;)....thanks, Pegi



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