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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > LG WM1832CW and another dreaded LE Error

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LG WM1832CW and another dreaded LE Error  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Aug 8th, 2010 09:10 pm
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JediScott
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Ok so the washer with a full load of clothes started having issues turning consistently.  It seems to be biased toward one direction but not always so.

I emptied the clothes out and run the machine in a quick cycle, rinse and spin only to try and get the cycle to finish, allowing the pump to come on and the basin to drain.

Even with no clothes in the machine it occasionally gets "stuck" where the tub is vibrating and you can hear the motor trying to turn the tub.  When it reverses direction sometimes it succeeds and sometimes fails.  The tub when it rotates does seem to make a little more noise than normal, but not the "roar" I've read about in some other posts.

The washer was purchased in October of 2003.

I don't have a service manual and if anyone has a good lead on one or even better a pdf of one I'd be very appreciative.  I feel like its hard for me to problem solve when I don't know the details of how the drive system is set up.

As a separate aside I've also put off replacing a perforated seal boot on the front.  It has a hole but it is near the top of the boot so I've let it go for a little bit.  Since I'll likely have the washer pulled out its probably a good time to fix this also.  Does anyone have good resources as far as parts are concerned?

I'm quite inclined mechanically and no slouch electrically so I feel like I can tackle this repair given the resources and parts.

I'll continue to read the forums to see what other experience is out there but in the meantime I'd welcome any assistance.

Happy to provide more details as required...

Regards,
Scott

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 Posted: Sun Aug 8th, 2010 09:12 pm
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JediScott
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I should add that I have already tried to cut the power (at circuit breaker) with the machine empty to see if that resets the problem.  This was not successful.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 8th, 2010 09:54 pm
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kdog
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JediScott wrote:

Even with no clothes in the machine it occasionally gets "stuck" where the tub is vibrating and you can hear the motor trying to turn the tub.  When it reverses direction sometimes it succeeds and sometimes fails. 


Do some turning of the inner drum by hand and see if it turns smoothly or if there is some patterned binding which could represent a sock or other item lurking betwixt the tubs



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 Posted: Sun Aug 8th, 2010 11:58 pm
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john63

 

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Likely a failing HALL EFFECT SENSOR  p/n : 6501KW2002A

Since this is an older LG washer---inspect the rear of the tub first for evidence of water leakage from the tub bearing (large brown stain marks). This would indicate a possible binding/seizing rear bearing. It's *not* common but should be ruled out.

 

From an earlier thread...

 

The *dreaded* "LE" error is overwhelmingly caused or triggered by incorrect type detergent **OR** too much *HE* detergent (a special low sudsing detergent).

In all LG washers--when too much detergent has been used---this will cause the "LE" error to be displayed & the wash cycle will be interrupted. Unplugging  the washer for more than one minute will cause the MAIN BOARD (computer) to power down and re-boot when the washer has been plugged back in.

On LG washers built *before* 2008---after several "LE" error events---the error *cannot* be reset by unplugging the washer. This indicates that the HALL EFFECT SENSOR has failed and will need to be replaced.

On all LG washers built during and after 2008---a more robust resistor was used in the HALL EFFECT SENSORS---which eliminated damage caused by higher electrical loads placed upon the sensors due to oversudsing. HALL EFFECT SENSORS virtually never fail in 2008 and newer LG washers but the "LE" error will still occur if too much or the wrong type of detergent is used. This will be "resettable" by unplugging/replugging the washer. 

The CORRECT amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent to be used is as follows:

HE : (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X : (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X : (1) Teaspoon

USE THESE AMOUNTS RELIGIOUSLY--NO EXCEPTIONS--IN ALL FRONT LOAD WASHERS WITH 3.0 cu ft DRUMS AND LARGER



 

Last edited on Sun Aug 8th, 2010 11:59 pm by john63

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 Posted: Mon Aug 9th, 2010 12:12 am
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john63 wrote:

 

From an earlier thread...

 


Documented for posterity here:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/03/the-dreaded-le-error-code-in-lg-washing-machines-diagnosis-troubleshooting-root-causes-and-repair/



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 Posted: Thu Aug 12th, 2010 03:28 am
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JediScott
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The inner tub appears to spin freely so I'm going to go after changing out the hall sensor.

To the 2nd part of my request.. as I understand I need the tub to door boot and a spring clamp assembly to make the repair for the perforated boot.

That said as I go look at repair clinic.com there appears to be two boots for my model LG.  One says it has a drain and the other makes no mention.  Is the drain the profiled channel at the bottom of the boot that channels water back into the tub?  Just looking for some guidance so I don't purchase the wrong boot.  For the record my current boot does have such a channel in it.

I am also noticing some mold on the boot which does get scrubbed down so I don't imagine this is active.  Though as I look at the outer tub I can see traces of mold there.  Once I get the boot replaced I'll plan on using some of the Destinkify techniques I've read about.

Looking forward to having to open up the front end and the back end of the machine this week lol

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 Posted: Thu Aug 12th, 2010 04:34 am
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john63

 

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Open the door to the washer---using both hands---pull apart the rubber DOOR GASKET to allow better visual access to the *bottom* of the gasket.

If you have an older WM1832 LG washer---there will NOT be a **drain hole** at the 6 O'Clock position of the gasket.

If you have a newer WM1832 washer---you'll notice a single round **drain hole** at the 6 O'Clock spot on the gasket.

Even if you end up with the WRONG gasket---it can still be used.

 

Musty odor (and soap scum/curd) can be removed by using:

"Tide Washing Machine Cleaner".

There are alternate methods for effectively cleaning an LG washer tub---but we can cover that subject after you've successfully installed the new HALL EFFECT SENSOR and DOOR GASKET.

Last edited on Thu Aug 12th, 2010 04:39 am by john63

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 Posted: Thu Aug 12th, 2010 06:10 pm
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JediScott
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*Raises his hand and solemnly swears never to use regular detergent in his HE Front Loader ever again....*

Honestly the barrier has always been our family requires perfume, dye, bleach free detergents and until recently I'd never seen these in an HE. We normally use Tide so the fact that they have a Free HE liquid now is a big help.

Thanks for all the help
-Scott

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 Posted: Sat Aug 14th, 2010 03:35 am
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JediScott
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Are the special tools for compressing the inner and outer springs really required for the boot change?  I don't want to spend $50 in tools if there is a simpler solution with some more common tools.

Thanks in advance for your experience...
Scott

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 Posted: Sat Aug 14th, 2010 04:36 am
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kdog
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The spring tools are only useful when removing the boot, not for restreching the springs for reinstallation, I have tried it several ways but find it is easiest by just removing the front as well as the concrete blocks, then you can see what you are doing and there is no slipping and cutting of hands etc.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 18th, 2010 03:40 am
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JediScott
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Ok well I checked my gasket and wrongly interpreted the drain channel back to the outer tub as the "drain hole".  Ordered my new gasket and have it on the machine, though no clamps on yet.  There is a large drain hole that goes not into the tub but just drains out into the washer housing. 

In an earlier post john63 mentioned that even if I get the wrong one it can still be used.  How would you recommend dealing with the drain-hole-to-nowhere.  I considered inverting the boot and putting the hole at the top, but then I lose the 3 drain channels that send water from the boot back into the outer tub. 

I've thought of ways to cover the drain hole (about 1/4" diameter) and I know already that duct tape and the like will not hold up to the environment.  The adhesives just break down and the tape comes loose.  (This info comes from the patch job we did to limp by on the old boot until the new one was ordered).

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott

Would love to not have to return the boot and switch as it would mean another few days without a washer.

Thanks,
Scott

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 Posted: Wed Aug 18th, 2010 05:22 am
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john63

 

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Visit an auto parts store and check if they have *any* silicone plugs in .500 diameter such as the following:

http://www.echosupply.com/finishing-supplies-products.aspx?ID=4

Insert this in the *Drain Hole* at the six o'clock location of the door gasket. Most silicone plugs are too long for the hole--cut the silicone plug to the size of the drain hole (gasket hole) with wire cutter pliers.

Use a *Wire Tie* to tightly seal & secure the unused hole.

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