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 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info! Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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KENMORE WASHER 417 44052401  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 06:31 am
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appl.tech.29501
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No, not at all..i'm glad to help. I assure you in the past 20 years of doing this I have had far more challenges :).

If you will go back several posts and click on the service manual link

that Master RegUS_PatOff 

so graciously provided and read through the trouble shooting segments to get familiar with the voltage test you will need to perform for this particular problem (no spin)



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 06:47 am
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The service manual appears to be for ERROR lights. I don't get any on this model... All the checking voltage on pin # so & so is probably stretches my troubleshooting ability. Do have the meter, but stick to the checking continuity through fuses, and dual posted lamps. I'm a cameraman/lighting guy by trade.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 06:48 am
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textech
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The parts manual is dead nails though. There is a substitute board now for my model.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 06:56 am
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If you dont want to venture into the voltage checks I can respect that. The board is a common failure part. If you purchase it from this link you can return it if it doesn't straighten out your problem.

Control Board Link




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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 07:05 am
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Am sure you're right- but since I have the thing out of the plastic housing- would it be worth my time to take it to someone and have them troubleshoot it for me? Or is that even done? All the help has been through the roof kind... My meter is pretty big- more of an automotive type, but in order to do all that I'd have to hook it all back up & plug it in, would I not? Any failure would result in replacing the entire board, won't it? There's no corrosion on any of the connections- the entire of the guts of the thing are really clean. I do have some contact cleaner, etc...



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 07:11 am
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it has to be in the machine to be tested unless you have a business in your area that tests electronic components.And if you do they should be able to replace any faulty components that it might have.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 09:10 am
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You should be able to run Diagnostics Tests on that model, resulting in flashing lights ..

textech wrote:
... would it be worth my time to take it to someone and have them troubleshoot it for me? Or is that even done? ...

I doubt if you're going to find anyone that would trouble-shoot any appliance circuit boards.


textech wrote: Tried to see if the door staying closed after it's unplugged- and it does NOT. Opens right away.... 
bad Door Latch Assembly
 
 click on picture


The wax Motor inside the Door Switch could be replaced separately

from a previous thread:
Budget Appliance Repair wrote:
Frigidaire FrontLoad washer door latch/lock switch
 WCI 131763245
replace only wax motor if it is bad, not complete latch assembly

 WPL 99001807 wax motor
 WPL 12002535 Wax motor

click on picture


click on picture



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 01:09 pm
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I have to agree with RegUs.  That model has the newer style inverter board, I haven't seen one of those fail yet like we used to see all the time on the older style motor control boards.

If the basket does it's tumble routine OK then you can be pretty sure it's a bad wax motor in the door latch/lock assembly.   May not see the tumble routine in these new electronic control models, you need to put it into diagnostics and check the spin.  If you get hi-speed spin in diagnostics then I can guarantee you that you have a bad wax motor in the door latch/lock assembly.

Lots of times it's a mechanical failure of the wax motor plunger wax cartridge, seal leaks and wax leaks around plunger so can't push plunger out when wax heats up.  If you take an ohm reading of the wax motor and get anywhere around 1000-2000 ohms the heater is probably OK but that doesn't mean it's not bad, (mechanical failure).

If you find that it is a bad wax motor the one you want to use is this one:
WPL 12002535 Wax motor, the one with the brownish body and black plunger.  It's the cheaper of the two and designed specifically for this application in the Maytag front loaders.




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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 04:47 pm
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textech
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& the wax motor would keep if from going into the spin cycle- yet it would agitate, rinse, etc...:shock:



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 05:01 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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yes,

have you tried the Diagnostic Tests ?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 05:27 pm
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textech
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Not yet. Have to reassemble the board and put it back before running the tests.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 07:59 pm
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textech
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You guys rock! The weekend warrior made some progress. After stepping up and getting my 12 year old to help me understand the, error code process- I'm showing E47 BOARD THINKS THE DOOR PTC CURCUIT IS OPEN IN SPIN. Am about to tear into the door. What's the procedure for getting beyond the door? Entire front panel?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 09:15 pm
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textech
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More improvements! Got it all hooked back up- made it through the diagnostic test (just like the tech manual said). It makes it completely through the stages- INCLUDING HIGH SPIN- yet shows the same error code as above E47. Waiting for expert advice!!!



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 09:34 pm
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textech wrote: ... E47 BOARD THINKS THE DOOR PTC CURCUIT IS OPEN IN SPIN. ..

Door Lock Assembly ...



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 11:27 pm
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textech
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Got the gasket pulled back and the door lock assembly out. Opened it up to attempt to get to the wax motor and parts went flying. Have the black shaft back on the wax motor, but other white clip looking piece that go over or under metal fork looking object with contact in the center of it- well... Is there a photo available of what the heck this dern thing should look like assembled with the plastic cover off it?



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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 10:29 pm
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textech
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Got the door assembly put in- now having a tough time getting the gasket to stay over tub in bottom. PLEASE HELP!



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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 11:15 pm
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textech
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Now we're going backward. Got everything put back together and now the machine won't even power down other than pulling the plug from the wall. Flashing lights & 3 beeps when hitting the pause button.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:04 am
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textech
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Took the old door lock assembly that allowed me to go through the diagnostic test and error code & put the newer wax motor (which is a rust colored one) and got the same set of reactions. Power won't turn off and 3 beeps when hitting the power switch. I'm past wits end...



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:42 am
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textech
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Reacts exactly the same with a door lock assembly plugged in and hooked up as unit not even plugged into it. Dangling connections with no door lock assembly cause the same reaction.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:59 pm
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Sounds to me like you might have enabled the control lock option.

There should be one button with a little lock symbol next to it.  That needs to be pressed and held for 3-5 seconds, (I believe it will beep when it goes into or comes out of control lock).



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