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Maytag Neptune Behaving Badly  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Aug 30th, 2005 06:04 pm
   
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sberrymon
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A few weeks ago my 6 year old Maytag washer Neptune MAH4000AWW stopped delivering mostly dry clothes at the end of the wash cycle (all of them).  I read you great information on the Neptune series and checked the pump (cleaned all the components, and tested exit out of washer, out of pump and out of the hose;  all clear) I check the control board for the three parts that could burn out but the control board looks perfect.  I then check the door lock and found two problems the Door Lock switch was broken (accounts for the lack of Door Locked Light) and the door ramp was so worn down the door bar was sliding under the plastic latch. I used your site and order the parts (great price and swift delivery). They arrive Saturday over a week ago. I installed them and tested the washer success!

My wife must have done about 10-15 loads of wash with no problem. Yesterday, dripping wet clothes after the wash cycle. I checked the door mechanism and it is latching, door lock lit is on and wax motor is engaging the switch on the opposite side.  There is no excess water in the drum and the control board looks just as good as it did the first time. (no burn marks on any of the resistors)

Setting the washer on spin and starting the unit only gives the pump noise and the slow tumbling of the drum. Door lock lit is on and I have manually watched as the wax motor pushed the plunger into the switch on the door lock spin enable switch. 

 I am now at a loss for what other checks to perform. I humbly request the assistance of a master samurai to show me the path to enlightment.

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 Posted: Thu Sep 1st, 2005 02:55 am
   
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sberrymon
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Since no one responded to my original posting, I figured the best place to start was at the beginning and not assume anything.  Since the door electronics control the high speed spin and the symptoms were identical to the first problem (a few weeks earlier) of no high speed spinning (but this time the door lock light was on and the wax motor fully engaged). I decided I needed to step through testing the various door components.  I started with the door lock spin enable switch (that had been working just fine). With my voltage test meter, I was unable to get any voltage reading when the wax motor was fully extended. 

I removed the screws and the small switch and sure enough it had failed just like the door lock light switch (the little switch activator was sitting inside the switch limp as can be!)  Given that both the door lock light and door lock spin enable switches are the same switch, I swapped the two and started a spin cycle test. The door lock light was no longer working but the high speed spinning is back! So back to the Repair Clinic for another replacement part.

 I wonder if this is the start of a series of failing, aged parts?

Thanks for the great site!

 

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 03:07 am
   
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nedsintown2
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HEY,

my maytag 4000aww just started malfunctioning.  no door latch light.....no spin cycle.  any chance of detailed instructions of how you repaired yours?  how is your project going? any help would greatly be appreciated

many thanks

john

 

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 02:06 pm
   
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sberrymon
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My Maytag is now back up and running correctly.  A few, simple parts failed (over time) and made it frustrating to troubleshoot. (check the circuit board and water exit on the washer as described elsewhere in this forum to ensure that they are working). If they are fine, then ...

First, check the door ramp. It should be clean and smooth with two squares at the very top. (Mine was fuzzy and had no material at the top. This caused the metal door latch to pass under the plastic latch that is part of the locking mechanism.  If the plastic door lock is not engaged when the wax motor is activated the spin switch will not be activated and no high speed spin happens!  If the ramp is worn down you can make a cardboard riser to lay on top of the existing ramp and tape it down. This will allow you to close the door and test the latch circuits. The door should close easily.

If the door latches okay, pull open the front washer panel and remove the two screws that hold down the top of the washer.  The top will only lift up about 4-6 inches.  Place an object under the top to hold it in the raised position.  You should be able to see the door latching mechanism.  Remove the screw that holds on the bottom plastic cover of the door circuit area. (this will give you access to the small light bulb).  You should be able to see two white switches, one on either side of a red-brown wax motor and the plastic door latch.

The white switch on the left, controls the door lock light (the machine will high speed spin even if this is not lit). The switch on on the right, controls the door lock circuit and if this is not working you will get no high speed spin. 

Set the washer to spin, close the door, and press the start button.  Watch to see if the wax motor, extends out and closes the contacts on both switches. If the wax motor failed (or the circuits on the control board) then the plunger on the right side will not extend (check the circuit board as described in the other email messages), if it extends, make sure both white switches have working contact switches. The small bump should be protruding out of the switch and should click if you push it in. No click, it has failed and should be replaced.

My left switch was broken first then just 10 days after I replaced the switch and door ramp, the other switch failed also. So you might replace bot of them together (They should cost about $8 each). 


Hope this helps,
sberrymon

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 07:58 pm
   
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nedsintown2
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Thanks for the quick reply... I will post an update with my test results....is this the correct part number for the switches?  22002162

also, do you know the wax motor number?

thanks sooooooooooo much for the help.

john

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 08:11 pm
   
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sberrymon
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Manufacturer: Maytag
Part Description: MOTOR, WAX
Part Number: 12002535

Manufacturer: Maytag
Part Description: RAMP, DOOR HOOP
Part Number: 22003055

Manufacturer: Maytag
Part Description: SWITCH, DOOR LOCK
Part Number: 22002162

Yes, that is the part number I have and here are the Door and Ramp numbers.

Steve

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 10:19 pm
   
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nedsintown2
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Steve, it looks like the R-11 resistor is fried on the control board. I'm guessing the wax motor caused this. Do you know if the board is a "goner" or maybe have the resistor replaced by an electrical shop?

thanks

john

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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 10:29 pm
   
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Pegi
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You wil need to replace the board, it has updated software, and replace the door latch assy also.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 11:26 pm
   
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Mad Mac
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There is an excellent website which goes into the "innards" of the board and how to fix it easily, I'll post the details later when I get home.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 12:02 am
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Here is the link of which the Mad One speaketh:

http://members.shaw.ca/gavb/



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 02:43 am
   
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nedsintown2
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ok.........yet another question................the wax motor has a plunger like rod. when it extends,....should it activate the second switch? (right side). Mine looks as if the rod\piston will miss the switch... almost looks as if the end of the rod has a tab or something broken off.

john

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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 12:17 pm
   
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sberrymon
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Yes, as the plunger from the wax motor will extend and it should contact the white door lock spin enable switch on the other side. The small tab on the switch should be fully depressed back into the switch housing to complete the circuit (if the small tab is not sticking out then the switch may also be bad)

Steve

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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 07:55 pm
   
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nedsintown2
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thanks for the help.   I have ordered the wax motor and two switches from this site.  Now off to locate the r-11 resistor and the q1 triac.  hopefully, it will all work.

john

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 Posted: Fri Sep 9th, 2005 07:14 pm
   
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jmoenk
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sberrymon,

I just want to thank you for all of the good information you posted.  I have the MAH3000AWW with the spin problem.  I replaced the control board and the wax motor but the high speed spin was still not working.  Your instruction to check the switch was right on and allowed me to wrap up the project which was truly driving me mad.

Now let's just hope this doesn't happen again.  BTW - I had no help (financially) from Maytag.  Nice huh? 

jmoenk

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 Posted: Fri Sep 9th, 2005 08:27 pm
   
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Mad Mac
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Call their customer relations number 1-800-SCREW U. It ain't your Daddy's Maytag any more.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 14th, 2005 08:07 pm
   
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nedsintown2
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Steve,

Many thanks!!!   my maytag is up and washing.   could not have done it without you!!!!

John

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 Posted: Sun Sep 18th, 2005 03:50 am
   
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tonypol09
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you need to perform the drive system phase continuity test and and the drive system phase loss test.     tonypol09

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 Posted: Sun Sep 18th, 2005 04:56 pm
   
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nedsintown2
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Tony,

could you tell this maytag jedi apprentice HOW to perform these tests? I have very little electrical skills..............what will the tests show and what knowledge will be gained?

thanks in advance

John

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 Posted: Sun Sep 18th, 2005 07:48 pm
   
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kdog
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if the machine is working properly now(spin high speed etc) no further tests are required



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