knudsen
Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Thu Jun 15th, 2006 |
| Location: | Cobblers Knob, Indiana USA |
| Posts: | 42 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Guiness Extra Stout |
| Status: |
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To be honest, I would consider replacing it, but I happened to be between paydays and I over-paid on a credit card and ran out of cash. I've got some much effort in it now, that I'll definitely finish it. If I had a rust free specimen, I would rebuilt the tranny in a heartbeat. They are built like a brick uhhh outhouse. If it were rust free, I would have no regrets. It's getting a little rust inside the tube where I can't reach it, so it's days are numbered for regular use, but I will use it as a rag washer. Probably will outlast me.
For many years I work for an engineering dept. I just did the service, but we joked about a chip that would time out after five years and break it. Those guys are too into quality and far to ethical to actually do it, but I'm seeing more and more of that in automotive stuff. Power windows are a good example. They are designed to last 7 or 8 years. If you don't take the door apart and lube them, you are in for a $250 to $500 per door repair at the dealer. It's a real PITA to get to them to lube. You can't see anything, and most people will mangle the plastic snaps for the door panel and like damage some of the interior. I'm getting my old Grand Marq (70K miles) ready to sell, and I had to replace the mechy on the drivers window for the second time, the passenger mechy, and I'm halfway done with one rear window, then I have to do the other. All the FoMoCo's I've worked on have aluminum pop rivets with a steel pin in the center, securing the mechy to the door and to the glass. Of course the drill wants to walk off the skinny little pin and when your drilling into the ones on the glass, of course it pops off the pin and goes right into the glass. I chipped the hole on one window, but never broke the glass, knock on wood. So they designed it to outlast the first owner if he's a good old boy and trades in regularly, and if he doesn't he get encouraged to trade it in by an expensive repair bill. Dealers' shop fixes it in their dead time with a $50 part and he resells it at the auction block. Doc's wonder why my back is so bad and ask what I did to it. I didn't do it, Ford did!
Anyway, I opened up the upper seal and wipe the white powder off it, and it is indeed a genuine whirlpool part. Cool. I'll bet the gear fork spring is too.
That upper seal, the one at the top of the shaft that goes up in the tower for the shaft/agitator (centerpost?), it's tapered on the outside, shaped like a stubby bullet. The taper goes down into the machine? It looks like it is designed to go in with the taper pointing up, the smaller end up, but the old one looks like the taper goes down into the machine. I tried to pull the old one out, but it's coming out in chunks, so I don't think I can tell.
On the catalog page you posted first, page 540, it looks similar to the seal in the middle of the page where it says "seal only." I believe if that were my seal, it should be turned over, then pressed into the seat, assuming the washer is standing upright. Is that correct? Taper down?
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I am no longer an idiot. I am now an Apprentice Appliantologist! Become one here and enjoy the benefits: http://www.applianceguru.com/forum6/10997.html And I thought I would have to shave my head to join!
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Is it the part with the set screw I shouldn't have removed? 
