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Maytag SE1000 won't drain  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Jun 16th, 2010 05:53 pm
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cak
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I have a Maytag SE1000 stackable - and all of a sudden the tub won't drain. It cycles straight from wash or rinse to spin, with not even an attempt to pump in between. Needless to say, this makes quite a mess and doesn't do anything any good.

Right now I have a tub full of water ...

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 Posted: Wed Jun 16th, 2010 06:16 pm
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cak
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I just checked the water level switch and it appears to be showing the correct continuity (i.e., "medium fill), based on the manual I found at http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16000416.pdf But I can't figure out from there just how the pump is turned on!

Last edited on Wed Jun 16th, 2010 06:24 pm by cak

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 Posted: Wed Jun 16th, 2010 06:50 pm
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cak
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Well ... now I understand that the motor drives the transmission and the pump! I thought that the pump would pump for a while before the transmission was engaged.

Once I figured that out, I quickly determined that the belt to the pump wasn't moving. A small tug and it started going. The belt is very loose and at the limit of adjustment, so a new one is on the way - but for now, I can do my laundry!

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 Posted: Thu Jun 17th, 2010 04:12 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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A loose belt will do it! You should replace both belts as a set. Here's the transmission drive belt==> Click



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 03:29 am
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cak
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So ... I ordered the belts a while ago, but have been nursing along on the old belt. It only takes a small tug to get the belt to hook up :-)

Tonight, though, I decided to do the replacement, because the old belt didn't hook up, it got thrown. Bad. The transmission drive belt went on first, no problem. Then the pump belt. Hmm. That was too easy. Sure enough, the belt halves touch when I squeeze them together. There's not any adjustment left at the pump. I try anyway, no joy.

Pull the new belt. It's bigger than the old belt!

The old belt is marked 2-11124-3

The new belt is marked 6 2111240. It is somewhat longer and somewhat narrower in cross section, so it fits quite a bit more loosely. It seems to be the "standard" cross-match part, but...

The local hardware store doesn't have 3/8" belts. Can you point me at a p/n that's an inch shorter, or do I need to start ordering from McMaster-Carr?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 03:47 am
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cak
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(I'm slightly annoyed that the official Maytag part cost me $25 but McMaster seems to have same-size belts for $6 ... )

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 05:24 am
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Tronicsmasta



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lol we charge about 50 each in the field haha



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 11:45 am
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DO NOT!!!! just get the same sized belts from an auto or hardware store, they will not work correctly.

You have the correct belt.
Drive belt
1/2" Thick belt = motor to transmission pulley 211125, (2-11125, # on belt 6 2111250)
Pump belt
3/8" Thick belt = motor to pump pulley 211124, (2-11124, # on belt 6 2111240)

You could probably get away with using just a standard belt for the pump since there's really no need for it to slip, (the drive belt has to slip, that is this machines clutch).

The correct adjustment procedure would be to gently pull the motor back as far as it can go with drive belt on then check the tension of the pump belt, squeezed together in the middle you should have about 1/4" between the two inside belt surfaces.  You may think this is way too loose but it's not, it doesn't take much to turn the pump.

There is only about 1/4" to 3/8" adjustment in the pump mounting bolt slots for the pump belt adjustment.

It is important that the motor slides nice and smoothly on it's slides, if it doesn't the belt tension will be too low to spin correctly.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 08:44 pm
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cak
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The drive belt wasn't the problem, and the Maytag replacement seems to be working fine.

The motor is spring loaded to be as far back as it can. At this point, the pump belt has no clearance at all when squeezed in the middle. The new belt is worse than the old one.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 11:47 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Yes, the motor is spring loaded to be back to keep tension on the belt.

But if you tip the machine back to replace the belts the weight of the motor will be pulling against the springs and let the motor sit forward a little more then if it were sitting in a level operating position.

That's why I said to gentle pull back on the motor making sure it is to the full back as the drive belt will let it go before checking pump belt adjustment.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 12:12 am
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cak
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Aha, I understand. I was checking tension with the machine flat on its feet; it's placed in a closet that makes it difficult to tip back very far!

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 01:32 am
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cak
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For the record, a 3L390 belt is too small to put on "easily". I'm going to try a 3L400 next ... if it's still too loose, then I'll work harder to get the 3L390 on and see just how tight it is. The RepairClinic page for the belt calls it 41-1/2" long, so 40" might be "just right".

Last edited on Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 02:09 am by cak

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 02:04 am
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cak
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While I'm asking ... the pump exhibits quite a bit of resistance when I try to turn it. That's part of what makes it hard to get the belt on. Is that right? Or should I

a) take it apart to try to lube

b) replace it while I've got things partially apart anyway?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 12:19 am
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cak
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Yes! 3L400 seems to be a perfect fit at the limit of adjustment. I have a replacement pump on the way, too, just to avoid future problems. Maybe the new pump will be quieter - this one whines a lot (which was good, since I could tell when the belt was slipping!)

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