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Kenmore (Electrolux) GLEH1642FS1 spin computer?

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 05:35 am

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Justen
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So I have a Frigidare (Electrolux) GLEH1642FS1 Washer/Dryer Combo Unit. And it was not spinning in either the dryer nor the washer. I had recently moved and this occured almost 2 days after. So of course I blamed the electrician who installed the 220 line thinking there wasn't enough power (I know stupid).

After that checked out I had a guy come out and pull what he called the computer out of the unit.

Of course that turns out to be part number Sanken 221870060

I bought this unit from Sears and now I live in Costa Rica so I am not having luck finding this part and will need to order it from the States.

So I searched the internet and found http://applianceguru.com/forum2/11752.html

But I am worried that perhaps this a generic replacement and maybe this other part Sole Part Number 221870020 is a better option.

Lastly I am thinking that since I have yet to install a surge device in this house that an electrical surge fried the board (which I can visibly see). Should I be worried about anything else?

I appreciate any help in this matter. You guys really seem to know your stuff here.

Thanks.

Justen

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 05:41 am

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Justen
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Upon further inspection the Sole unit may also be made by Sanken.

please see http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-134149220-%3d%3di1206430&PartID=1206430

Where this unit says SOLE mine says ACC

Last edited on Fri Jun 18th, 2010 02:23 am by

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 05:49 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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which part are you looking for ?

GLEH1642FS1 Parts List & Diagrams

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 05:57 am

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Justen
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4 # 134149220 Controller Assy, speed, w/base & shield

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 06:06 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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I don't know the difference in brands..

but did you check the Motor for shorts ?

usually, if the Fuse is blown on the Controller, you'd need to replace both the Motor and Controller.

see Motor tests page 1

GLEH1642FS1 Tech Sheets

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 06:09 am

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Justen
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Just a visible inspection showed nothing out of the ordinary.

Any thoughts of any other tests I can do on the motor?

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 06:14 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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Justen wrote: ...I had recently moved and this occured almost 2 days after.... I bought this unit from Sears and now I live in Costa Rica
was the Shipping Hardware re-installed before the move ?

(to support and protect the Tub & Bearings)

from PDF page 7 of the Installation Manual

"NOTE: If the laundry center is to be transported at a later date,
the shipping support hardware must be reinstalled to prevent shipping damage."

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 06:26 am

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Justen
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Sorry. Let me elaborate.

The unit was purchased from a Sears Repair Center. It was shipped on a pallet that it came with. So I never got all the materials to properly pack it back up.

So with me trying to explain all of this the answer is NO. And I feel stupid.

So all in all the unit had worked fine for me for a year and then after this last move (across the street) it broke after a couple of days.

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 12:43 pm

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Budget Appliance Repair
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: usually, if the Fuse is blown on the Controller, you'd need to replace both the Motor and Controller.

see Motor tests page 1

GLEH1642FS1 Tech Sheets

RegUS, on these Frigidaire built front loaders that's not true.

It's quite common to see the controller fuse blown and have no problems with the motor. I can't remember ever having to replace a motor in one of these except for one time and it was because of noise, (bad bearings).

I would say that 90% of the time with a no tumble and no spin on these units, it's the motor control board.

If it tumbles/agitates ok but won't high speed spin then usually the wax motor in the door switch/lock unit is the problem.

If in-fact the dryer won't run anymore and the washer won't spin, (what else won't it or will it do), then I would be taking another close look at the power connection. Make sure all terminals are tight at the power cord and all connections in the newly installed 220 volt house circuit are tight.

Last edited on Tue Jun 15th, 2010 12:47 pm by Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 01:52 pm

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BrntToast
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i agree with budget
the friggy motors just dont fail, i have never had to change a motor and speed board at the same time, nor have i ever changed out a bad board and had it fried by a motor, thats a maytag thing

but that speed controller has nothing to do with the dryer, and if your dryer still is not turning, do not expect the speed board to fix it

i'm going with bad power supply if both died at the same time

i'd also be looking at possible damage to the door lock AND the washer timer if the unit was moved without braces, this damage can be inspected visually by removing these parts
the plastic housing on the door lock will be cracked if it was hit, and the timer will be bent on the bottom

is costa rica 60 hertz, or 50?

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Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 09:18 pm

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Justen
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Costa Rica is 60 hertz.

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Posted: Wed Jun 16th, 2010 11:23 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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BrntToast wrote: i'd also be looking at possible damage to the door lock

AND the washer timer

if the unit was moved without braces, this damage can be inspected visually by removing these parts
the plastic housing on the door lock will be cracked if it was hit, and the timer will be bent on the bottom
Wouldn't be a bent or damaged timer in this model, it's the stacked laundry center model, (dryer permanently attached to top of frontload washer). Timer for dryer and washer are both in the panel just below the bottom of the dryer, (above the slanted panel between washer and dryer).

The 220volt power cord supplies the power to both parts of this unit. So, again, if the dryer isn't working also and this happened at the same time washer quit, check the power wiring.

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Posted: Thu Jun 17th, 2010 01:10 am

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Justen
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Checked the wiring. It is all installed correctly.

And the dryer will spin if I hold the run knob and it is empty. The slightest weight in the dryer will disable it.

I have to hold the knob to start for about 10 seconds to get it to start working. It's like I'm forcing it.

And it is getting hot inside of it.

So could I have 2 separate problems here?

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Posted: Thu Jun 17th, 2010 05:44 am

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kdog
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To sum up the issue(s) - it is a frontload washer? combination unit and neither washer or dryer will spin?
does the washer fill and tumble? - you can only get the dryer to start by holding the start switch? when you say the slightest weight will disable it, do you mean that the motor will not start even with switch held? does it just hum?

Somehow, my first suspicion would be improper power supply - needs to have 220/110 power (2 circuits) not just straight 220, the washer and dryer share L1 and there needs to be a neutral "split" on the white

Last edited on Thu Jun 17th, 2010 05:54 am by kdog

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Posted: Thu Jun 17th, 2010 08:18 am

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Justen
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Yes it is a front load washer. Combination unit with the dryer on top.

The washer was running but wouldn't spin. They took the part out and you can see that it has a fried part of the board.

So I do not know if it would tumble. I just know that everything was super wet when it would say it was done.

At the same time as all this the dryer started to not spin. If there is anything in the dryer it will just try and start and then stop (like it gave up). But if it is empty and you hold the start knob and get lucky it will spin and work.

There is a slight hum before the dryer gives up. Like the motor is trying really hard.

I had an electrician look at the wiring diagram in the manual and check the wires. I will again consult the book and ask him questions with your reply.

But again the circuit board was fried on the washer side of things.

Would a picture of that help?

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Posted: Fri Jun 18th, 2010 01:49 pm

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BrntToast
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you need to pop the belt off the dryer motor pulley and try to start it again
this will tell you if there is something jamming the drum or fan, or if you have a motor problem
we dont get those all in one units up here in canada so i'm not certain, but all other friggy dryers have a small access panel in the back that you can reach the belt through
pop the belt off and let us know if the dryer motor fires right up or if it still struggles
its possible that during the move the back panel of the dryer was pushed in, this causes the drum to bind on the front panel

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Posted: Sat Jun 19th, 2010 08:33 pm

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Justen
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Ok - So I had an electrician come out and check all the power going all the way back to the box. No shorts anywhere or any problems.

He is betting that we had a surge and it did some damage to the unit.

So the dryer has some sort of issue.

We started by starting it up with nothing in it. It started like a champ.

Then I put 5 dry towels in it and it started struggling.

So we took off the panel and looked at the belt.

We tried it again (having done nothing) and the dryer started right up no issues with the towels in it.

No less then 30 seconds after we were amazed that there was no issue the thing wouldn't start again.

So we removed the belt started it. No issues with the motor turning on.

So I started to think that indeed there was some sort of drum issue with it binding on the front.

The electrician reminded me though that it doesn't have an issue when there is no strain on the unit.

He did ask if there was some sort of board or something that tells the dryer how to operate.

We was as perplexed as me.

Any ideas?

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Posted: Sat Jun 19th, 2010 11:45 pm

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kdog
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Could just be a bad motor, but I would first verify the you are getting 120vac to the Gray (M6) and Brown (M4) at the motor harness when starting the motor - the gray should be at neutral potential (NOT hot to ground)- not sure how the power grid works there, but maybe not accustomed to working with neutral and 220v will do funny things to 120v motors - if power is correct, looks like you be needin a new motor fer yer dryer

RepairClinic part #1014342

Just seems odd that you would suddenly have multiple issues like that

Last edited on Sat Jun 19th, 2010 11:48 pm by kdog

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