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LG WM3431HW Combo Washer Dryer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat May 8th, 2010 11:48 pm
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riodej
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I was hoping to get some help with a few issues I'm having with this washer. First, the automatic lock mechanism takes hours and hours to unlock on its own after a load...so for now I have to unplug the unit and it unlocks in a minute or so.

Second, the washer won't draw water if you have just finished a load and want to do another one.  Seems to be heat related because this doesn't happen if you do cold water cycles with no dry.

I'm not getting any error messages.  I'd love to dry the diagnostic tools but can't track down a service manual.  I saw an older post from 08 where somebody had success downloading it but the link no longer works.  If anybody could send me a copy, I would be very appreciative.

Cheers,

Tim

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 Posted: Sun May 9th, 2010 12:13 am
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The Controller won't unlock the Door if the Wash Load is hot (or it thinks it is)

WM3431HW Service Manual



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 10:48 pm
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riodej
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Hey guys,

Thanks for the help with the service manual.  The washer has been working ok lately but still has some of the same issues.  I recently got an IE error mid cycle and did some of the diagnostics in the service manual that I was hoping you guys could help me interpret.  The washer passed all of the diagnostic tests so all the mechanical parts seem to be working ok.  What seems to happen is as the washer gets hot (usually through the drying cycle because I dont' use hot water that often) it won't draw water.  The door lock that takes forever to unlock may also be a symptom of a sensor issue that thinks it is too hot when it really isn't?

Would replacing the sensor assembly be the right move to get this thing humming again?

Thanks again for all your help.

Tim

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 Posted: Sat Jul 3rd, 2010 03:39 pm
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from the service manual:

Press the Wash/Rinse button and the present temperature will be displayed.


does that corespond to the actual temperature ?



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 Posted: Sat Jul 3rd, 2010 05:24 pm
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john63

 

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If the "IE" error occurs during the DRY CYCLE---replace the WATER VALVE ASSY...

P/N : AJU71030102

This is a triple valve assy for cold water.

During the dry cycle the valve on the right side (if facing the front of the unit) provides a *mist* of cold water into the DUCT ASSY to help convert steam vapor back into a liquid. The drain motor will then pump this water out.

If this valve fails--the temperature will "spike"---causing the THERMISTORS to send this data to the MAIN BOARD---which then keeps the door locked until the unit has cooled down.

On all combo units--the control panel does display "cd" at the end of the dry cycle which indicates that the unit is not sufficiently cooled to unlock the door. This is normal.

NOTE: It is extremely unlikely that the DUAL THERMISTORS is at fault. I've never had a failure in 7 years.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2010 02:42 am
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riodej
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Hey guys!
Thanks again for all the advise. I followed your advise and replaced the water valve assy and it worked great for a while. Recently I've started getting "IE" errors again but this time during the rinse cycle and not during the dry cycle.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Tim

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 Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2010 04:01 am
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john63

 

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The HOT WATER VALVE may be malfuctioning or has failed.

During *water fill* the temperature of the water entering the tub is continually maintained by the main board and the thermistor.

In some cases---an error "te" can be displayed as well.

If your water supply is from a well---this is usually the cause of frequently failing water valves. It is always a good idea to turn off the hot & cold water spigots and remove the hoses from the washer to inspect the *screens* inside both water valves for excessive sediment accumulation. Clean as necessary---but do not attempt to remove the screens from the water valve(s). This will damage the screens.

On another note---if your washer has after-market fill hoses for the hot & cold water hook up---verify that these hoses are *not* the FLOOD CHECK / FLOOD SAFE type hoses. These hoses are known for malfunctioning and stopping water flow. Most are labeled as anti-flood hoses. At one end of each hose there is an elongated stainless steel sleeve about 2 inches length---this the location of the internal automatic shut-off valve.

If these are currently on your combo washer / dryer---replace them with either standard fill hoses or non-flood safe (non-check valve) stainless steel hoses. 

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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 02:57 am
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riodej
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Hi Guys,

Thanks again for all your help. I'm hoping to put an end to the saga with this washer/dryer once and for all. Please have a look at the previous posts because for the most part all of these issues are still present. I've downloaded the service manual and done the tests. The issues are as follows...

1. The front door remains locked until you unplug the unit...at which point after a few minutes it unlocks.

2. I'm normally unable to do consecutive loads. After the first load, the machine normally won't draw water. After you let the machine cool down for a few hours, it usually works.

3. I occasionally get "IE" errors when I use warm water. (to give you some background I just have the machine draw from a faucet so there isn't a separate hot and cold intake).

4. Just yesterday, I started having problems with the drying cycle. I don't get any errors, but after a normal dry cycle the clothes come out soaking wet.

After doing some of the diagnostics, I got the following results: When testing the temperature, the reading on the machine read 22...so it looks like that is working properly. The dryer fan turned on and seemed to be working normally. The 6 minute dry cycle started up, and after 6 minutes the temperature reading went from 22 to 50. When I opened the door (again it was locked until I unplugged it) it felt like the temperature was about right. I already replaced the water valve assy and it didn't seem to change much.

Since the clothes were coming out wet, I thought it could be the dryer heater assy but all the other issues have made me think that it could be the control board (PWB(PCB) ASSEMBLY,DISPLAY) or one of the Thermistors. Because the control board is expensive, I'd like to get your thoughts before I order it.

Thanks!

Tim

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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 03:13 am
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are the Water Inlet Valves getting voiltage ?

If yes, and still no water, they may be bad/clogged again



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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 05:24 am
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john63

 

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<<<<(to give you some background I just have the machine draw from a faucet so there isn't a separate hot and cold intake).>>>>
 
**********
 
This is a *huge* clue and an improper method of using the combo washer & dryer.
 
The hot water hose **must** be connected to a hot water source---same for the cold water hose.
Otherwise the water temperature sensors are going to indicate to the computer that the water temperatures *cannot* be controlled or maintained. This will cause the machine to operate in a manner different than expected.

 
**********
 


<<<<Just yesterday, I started having problems with the drying cycle. I don't get any errors, but after a normal dry cycle the clothes come out soaking wet.>>>>
 
**********
 
Check:
 
1) Drain Motor running? Water draining out?  If no, inspect the filter at the front of
    the washer combo (lower/ left corner). Remove any / all debris.
 
2) Water drains good but laundry still wet?  Unplug the combo. Remove the rear service
     access panel. Locate the plastic DUCT TUBE on the left side and disconnect it at the
     bottom location of the tub. Check for heavy lint accumulation--remove all.
 
3) Remove the top cover of the combo unit. Standing in front of the combo--at the right
    rear corner is a BLOWER ASSY. Remove the "phillips" screws from the blower and lift
    the blower motor assy out. Check the housing for heavy lint accumulation. Clean as
    needed.
    





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