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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3   |
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| Kenmore Dryer | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 05:18 pm |
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1st Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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I have a Kenmore Series 90 dryer that will dry for about 5 - 10 minutes then will blow the same fuse everytime. It of course will continue to run blowing cold air. I cleaned out the duct and the whole machine, for that matter. I'm handy and have a ohm meter but I don't no what to check for next. The machine is not yet 3 years old. Any help is appreciated.
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 06:59 pm |
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2nd Post |
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XNSXMANNY Master Appliantologist
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start by posting your model number
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 01:21 pm |
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3rd Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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The model number is 100 C62922 100.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 01:24 pm |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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jgeorg wrote: The model number is 100 C62922 100. Not sure what that is but I don't think that's a valid model number. Sounds like you have a bad circuit breaker.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 03:57 pm |
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5th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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I read it right off the machine. I live in Canada eh! Would that make a difference. I have the screw in type fuses. What should each fuse be rated?
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 04:34 pm |
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6th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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jgeorg wrote: I read it right off the machine. I live in Canada eh! Would that make a difference. Ya shure, ya betcha-- totally different model number database. Information on electrical requirements for major appliances here.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 12:08 am |
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7th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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Master, After reading the chart. does it mean each fuse is 30 amp or is it 2 - 15 amp fuses adding upto 30 amps total? Aside from this what should I do next, call in an electrician or is there any that I might do myself? Would any other identifying number be of help? Any idea how I might find the equivalent US model? Oh life without a dryer - makes one's wife all the more meaner.
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 12:33 am |
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8th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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My apologies master ! The first 3 numbers of the model number are 110 not 100. The model I have can be found here if it helps. Last edited on Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:22 am by |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 01:46 pm |
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9th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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jgeorg wrote: After reading the chart. does it mean each fuse is 30 amp or is it 2 - 15 amp fuses adding upto 30 amps total? The circuit breaker should be a two-pole, 30-amp breaker. This means each pole is 30 amps. These are easy to replace but if you're hinky about electricity then, by all means, pay for an electrician to do it.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 08:20 pm |
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10th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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You're dealing wiith a pupa. These are screw in type fuses, not a breaker. Humour me. So each fuse needs to be 30 amps?
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 09:40 pm |
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11th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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jgeorg wrote: Humour me. :laffinatchoo: Ok, you're humored. Now I'll help you think. Is there any functional difference between a circuit breaker and a fuse? (hint: NO) So if a circuit breaker was specified to carry a certain amperage, what do you think that means for a fuse?
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 10:57 pm |
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12th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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O thank you oracle of infinite wisdom! But seriously, have you ever seen resetable 30 amp fuses. I thought I'd try them out. Either that or slow blow type fuses. Did the picture prove to be useful. I feel educated already. O Master! I feel an urge to open a brewski! 
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| Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 12:33 am |
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13th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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No to either type of fuse in a household power distribution application. And no also to the picture being helpful. Doesn't matter, do this test: run the dryer on air fluff/no heat and see if it blows the fuse that way. Also, pull the dryer plug out of the wall socket and inspect it carefully for signs of overheating: charring or pitting on any of the plug blades being the most common.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:09 am |
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14th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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Master, I did both tests you mentioned and neither of the 2 30 amp time delay fuses. blew. However, that was a light load of socks and - gottchies. So feeling good, my wife purposely increased the load and before you could say Bob's your uncle, the fuse on the one pole that was blowing with a 20 amp fuse, blew again. What can I do next?
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| Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:25 am |
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15th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Very good, Grasshopper; you have almost snatched the pebbles from my hand. Now, one more test. Run the dryer on a full heat cycle but without any load. Then, add to the load as you did before. Tell me what you find.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:44 pm |
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16th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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As you command o ocean of knowledge and wisdom. Thanks. I'll keep you posted.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 08:48 pm |
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17th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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Master, Grasshopper's wife has done as you instructed. The fuse blew after increasing the load so that the depth of the laundry was up to the bottom lip of the door. Prior to this size load it operated just fine. What next boss? 
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| Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 09:30 pm |
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18th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Very good, Grasshopper. Let's summarize where we are. We have a dryer circuit that blows its fuse anytime the dryer is loaded with a normal load of wet clothes. This occurs whether or not the dryer is set to heat the air. SO, this eliminates the heating elements as a suspect but does call into question the motor, since it is the only major current-consuming component in common with the heat and air fluff cycles. If I were on the service call, I would measure the current draw of the motor and compare it to its name plate rating. Further, I would do this as the dryer was loaded with with clothes and observe the motor's current draw change. This would either affirm or negate my suspicion of it. In the absence of this test, we are left to guesses and luck. So tell me, Grasshopper: do you feel lucky?
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:29 am |
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19th Post |
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jgeorg Grasshopper
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I never tested th dryer with full lod on air only, but I will. Can I check the current draw myself safely or should a service man be called in. How can this test be performed? I do have meter and will only attempt it if it can be done safely.
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:57 am |
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20th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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This page explains how to make simple electrical measurements, including current draw. The measurement would be done from the pig tail. You'd get a long enough loop of wire at the pigtail terminal block in the back of the dryer to loop your ampmeter through and make monitor the current flow there.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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