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Kenmore Dryer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 01:04 pm
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jgeorg
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Can I do this test with a multimeter or is the clamp on meter the only safest way to go?

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 06:56 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If you read the link in my last post, you'd see that using a clamp-on ampmeter to measure AC current is the only way.  Some multimeters have a built in clamp-on ampmeter.  How can you tell?  Because they have a big ol' clamp sticking out of 'em, like this one



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 Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 11:56 am
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jgeorg
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I don't own such a tool and after a little investigation, it seems like I might be in the realm of what a pro does. Unless this tool is cheap and easy to find it may not be worh my my efforts, let alone time and money. 

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 Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 12:39 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The one you saw in the picture I linked to previously was less than $100 on sale at Sears.  You can find 'em for even less if you look around. 

The whole purpose of the Samurai School of Appliantology and Fixitnow.com is is to empower people to do what pros do...or, in many cases, to do what pros should do. 

You may be interested to learn that most appliance repair people do not have even a fraction of the competence you see in the Master Appliantologists here at the Samurai School; instead, many are simply parts-changing monkeys who don't know the first thing about making electrical measurements or reading wiring diagrams and they give the trade a bad name. 

But, hey, it's your money and you know best what you're willing and able to tackle.  Call the ball, Hoss. 

Last edited on Tue Apr 26th, 2005 12:41 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2005 04:33 am
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jgeorg
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Well, I'm in.  I'm ready to do whatever it takes! Almost! Can you suggest the specs of a clamp meter I might need for this and future appliance repair. I can get my mitts on a Craftsman model 82062 for a cheap price. I think it goes upto 400 amps AC, as well as volts, ohms etc. Let  the games begin!!!  :jedi:

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 Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2005 01:43 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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jgeorg wrote:  I can get my mitts on a Craftsman model 82062 for a cheap price. I think it goes upto 400 amps AC, as well as volts, ohms etc.
That'll work.  When you get it, spend some time reading the instructions and making practice measurements of all varieties before starting on the dryer.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 28th, 2005 07:26 pm
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exsearsguy

 

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Try tightening the screw behind the fuse that blows. Sometimes the screw gets loose and heat builds up causing the fuse to blow.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 28th, 2005 11:32 pm
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jgeorg
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How can I do that without getting a perm?  

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 Posted: Fri Apr 29th, 2005 12:22 am
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exsearsguy

 

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Very carefully!!! Or pull the main.

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 Posted: Fri Apr 29th, 2005 02:53 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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exsearsguy wrote: Or pull the main.
You should unplug any appliance before doing any type of disassembly.



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 Posted: Mon May 16th, 2005 03:24 am
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jgeorg
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Master,

I know it has been a while since we exhanged pleasantries but  don't think of me as the prodigal son. I have finally received my clamp meter and clamping the red wire of the plug , I got a reading of 22.6 amps.  Is this  the correct wire to clamp on? Is the reading normal? Some many questions? What next?. 

 

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 Posted: Tue May 17th, 2005 10:43 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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22 amps while running?  I'd say that's off the charts!  For comparison, look on the nameplate of the motor, you'll see a max current listed that's something like 8 or 12 amps, or something in that range.  If you're sure your measurement is accurate, you've just confirmed that you have a bad motor.  The motor is drawing excessive current == current creates heat == motor gets too hot == thermal overload does it's job and stops the show. 

Replace the motor.



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 Posted: Tue May 17th, 2005 03:58 pm
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jgeorg
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Any idea what the motor is worth? Is clamping around the red wire, or for that matter, any wire all you have to do? 

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 Posted: Tue May 17th, 2005 06:08 pm
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exsearsguy

 

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jgeorg,are you reading that 22 ampsat the end of the pigtail? If you are you're reading the element  and the motor. Don't panic and change that motor yet! Put a load of clothes in the dryer,turn it on read your new ammeter and watch it till the fuse blows.You say it only takes 5 to 10 minutes to blow.If the meter stays around 22 till it blows,go feel the fuse RIGHT NOW.It will probably be hot.If it is you still have a screw loose behind the fuse.Pull that main and tighten that screw! It's cheaper and easier than a motor.

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 Posted: Wed May 18th, 2005 12:24 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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An insightful diagnostic question, Exsears!  I had it in my head that he was measuring the current at the motor.  And 22amps would be consistent with the heating element current draw.



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 Posted: Wed May 18th, 2005 01:33 am
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jgeorg
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So my queston is how do I read the  draw of the motor? I have to pretty well dismantle the dryer to get to the motor? I'm reading the red wire where is comes off the plug at the top of the machine and has a plastic connector that leads to points unknown from that point on. I'll be trying the lose screw advice shortly. I feel empowered already. Let's hope this power doesn't to my head. No pun intended. :poison:

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 Posted: Wed May 18th, 2005 02:48 am
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exsearsguy

 

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If you want to read just the motor,put a load of clothes in the dryer,put it on air and turn it on.You might have to pick one of the other wires on the pigtail but that's all you'll have to do.At that point the motor is the only thing running.

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 Posted: Thu May 19th, 2005 12:15 am
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jgeorg
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I just finished testing the dryer using my new clamp meter and with the air dry  cycle only. I didn't get a reading from the red wire but the white one gave me 4.4 amps. I don't know what the rating for the motor is since I would to have to pretty well tear down the machine  again to see its rating. Unless it's in a more conspicous place. Does this sound like a correct  reading? I'm  a little leary of  messing with the panel to tighten the screw that may be the culprit. Of course the main wil be switched off  which will make me feel more secure   My cheapness to pay out for service will get me over the hump!

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 Posted: Thu May 19th, 2005 12:48 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You did this with the dryer running empty, I assume.

Repeat this test with the dryer running with a full load of wet clothes.

In both conditions (drum empty, drum full, no heat in either case) let the dryer run for at least 15 minutes to see if the fuse blows.



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 Posted: Thu May 19th, 2005 10:39 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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4.4 amps for just the motor sounds good. Like Samurai said, "let run for 15 minutes and see if same, with and without load".

The big red wire is the heat only leg so it will only give a reading with heat on. The black leg runs the motor and the 2nd leg of the 220volts for the heater.

So, with your reading of 22.6 amps - the 4.4 amps for motor it sounds like the heater is drawing around 18.2 amps which sounds ok.

Another thing, I just went back to the beginning of the discussion and noted you said, "it blows the fuse and keeps running and it's always the same fuse". This leads me to believe you have a problem in your fuse box as you have already been advised. Since the machine keeps running when the fuse blows that tells us that the fuse that is handling the 110volts for heat only is the one blowing out not the one that handles the heat and motor side which is going to be the one drawing the most amps.

This whould almost have to be a bad fuse holder in the fuse box or a loose connection somewhere between the wire from the fuse box to the dryer recepticle, or the only other thing I can think of is the heating element is broken and sometimes is touching to make connection then breaks loose and shorts to element housing, but that doesn't seem likely since you've never had a no heat problem until the fuse blows out and replacing fuse heat works again.

Last edited on Thu May 19th, 2005 11:21 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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