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Kenmore Dryer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 05:18 pm
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jgeorg
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I have a Kenmore Series 90 dryer that will dry for about 5 - 10 minutes then will blow the same fuse everytime. It of course will continue to run blowing cold air. I cleaned out the duct and the whole machine, for that matter. I'm handy and have a ohm meter but I don't no what to check for next.  The machine is not yet 3 years old. Any help is appreciated.

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 Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 06:59 pm
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XNSXMANNY
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start by posting your model number

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 Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 01:21 pm
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jgeorg
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The model number is 100 C62922 100.  

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 Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 01:24 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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jgeorg wrote: The model number is 100 C62922 100.  
Not sure what that is but I don't think that's a valid model number.

Sounds like you have a bad circuit breaker. 



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 Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 03:57 pm
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jgeorg
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I read it right off the machine. I live in Canada eh! Would that make a difference. I have the screw in type fuses. What should each fuse be rated?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 04:34 pm
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jgeorg wrote: I read it right off the machine. I live in Canada eh! Would that make a difference.
Ya shure, ya betcha-- totally different model number database. 

Information on electrical requirements for major appliances here.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 12:08 am
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jgeorg
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Master,

After reading the chart. does it mean each fuse is 30 amp or is it 2 - 15 amp fuses adding upto 30 amps total? Aside from this what should I do next, call in an electrician or is there any that I might do myself? Would any other identifying number be of help? Any idea how I might find the equivalent US model?  Oh life without a dryer - makes one's wife all the more meaner.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 12:33 am
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jgeorg
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My apologies master ! The first 3 numbers of the model number are 110 not 100. The model I have can be found here if it helps.


Last edited on Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:22 am by

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 01:46 pm
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jgeorg wrote: After reading the chart. does it mean each fuse is 30 amp or is it 2 - 15 amp fuses adding upto 30 amps total?
The circuit breaker should be a two-pole, 30-amp breaker.  This means each pole is 30 amps.  These are easy to replace but if you're hinky about electricity then, by all means, pay for an electrician to do it.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 08:20 pm
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jgeorg
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You're  dealing wiith a pupa. These are screw in type fuses, not a breaker. Humour me. So each fuse needs to be 30 amps?

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 09:40 pm
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jgeorg wrote: Humour me.
:laffinatchoo:

Ok, you're humored. 

Now I'll help you think.  Is there any functional difference between a circuit breaker and a fuse?  (hint:  NO)  So if a circuit breaker was specified to carry a certain amperage, what do you think that means for a fuse?



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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 10:57 pm
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jgeorg
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O thank you oracle of infinite wisdom! But seriously, have you ever seen resetable 30 amp fuses. I thought I'd try them out. Either that or slow blow type fuses. Did the picture prove to be useful. I feel educated already. O Master! I feel  an urge to open a brewski!  :gimmebeer:

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 12:33 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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No to either type of fuse in a household power distribution application.  And no also to the picture being helpful.  Doesn't matter, do this test:  run the dryer on air fluff/no heat and see if it blows the fuse that way.  Also, pull the dryer plug out of the wall socket and inspect it carefully for signs of overheating:  charring or pitting on any of the plug blades being the most common. 



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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:09 am
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jgeorg
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Master, I did both tests you mentioned and neither of the 2 30 amp time delay fuses. blew.  However, that was a light load of socks and - gottchies. So feeling good, my wife purposely increased the load and before you could say Bob's your uncle, the fuse on the one pole that was blowing with a 20 amp fuse, blew again.  What can I do next?

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:25 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Very good, Grasshopper; you have almost snatched the pebbles from my hand. Now, one more test. Run the dryer on a full heat cycle but without any load. Then, add to the load as you did before. Tell me what you find.



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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 03:44 pm
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jgeorg
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As you command o ocean of  knowledge and wisdom.  Thanks. I'll keep you posted.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 08:48 pm
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jgeorg
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Master,

Grasshopper's wife has done as you instructed. The fuse blew after increasing the load so  that the depth of the laundry was up to the bottom lip of the door. Prior to this size load it operated just fine. What next boss?  :huh:

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 09:30 pm
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Very good, Grasshopper.  Let's summarize where we are. 

We have a dryer circuit that blows its fuse anytime the dryer is loaded with a normal load of wet clothes.  This occurs whether or not the dryer is set to heat the air.  SO, this eliminates the heating elements as a suspect but does call into question the motor, since it is the only major current-consuming component in common with the heat and air fluff cycles.

If I were on the service call, I would measure the current draw of the motor and compare it to its name plate rating.  Further, I would do this as the dryer was loaded with with clothes and observe the motor's current draw change.  This would either affirm or negate my suspicion of it.  In the absence of this test, we are left to guesses and luck. 

So tell me, Grasshopper: do you feel lucky?



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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:29 am
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jgeorg
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I never tested th dryer with  full lod on air only,  but I will.  Can I check the current draw myself safely or should  a service man be called in. How can this test be performed? I do have meter and will only attempt it if it can be done safely.

 

 

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:57 am
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This page explains how to make simple electrical measurements, including current draw. 

The measurement would be done from the pig tail.  You'd get a long enough loop of wire at the pigtail terminal block in the back of the dryer to loop your ampmeter through and make monitor the current flow there.

 



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