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Kenmore Dryer 110-60972990  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 02:41 am
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Gary G
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Dryer will not run unless the start button is pressed.  When released, motor stops. Went to Fixitnow.com FAQ for dryers and found solution to test heater and motor relay.

The Motor relay tests in range of 1-2k-ohms as suggested.  Can't perform the 48 vdc test because the motor won't keep running.

The Heater Relay is in the mega-ohm range indicating bad. 

Can a Bad Heater Relay cause the motor to stop running when the start button is released?  I removed the heating unit with the 2 fuses in it and they tested in the 1-2k ohms range indicating good fuses.

Oh Great fixit master I need your help so my wife will think I can still fix anything and we don't have to wear damp clothes.

Gary G

 

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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 02:46 am
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Just reverse the motor and heat relay for a test, if the motor stays running you know the relay is bad, if not bad evenheat board....



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 03:58 am
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Gary G
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Okay, I swapped relays and the heat connection tested good. That's with all the wires connected to the relays.

When I take both relays out of the dryer and test the coils for resistance both test bad.

Each one tests good with the wires Red/White and Red wires hooked up as heater relay. 

When I test both red/white wires (not connected to the relay) I get no resistance

When I test both pink/black wires (not connected to the relay ) I get full resistance

Are both relays bad as well as the control board?

Thanks

 PS, the motor does not stay running regardless of which relay is connected.



 

Last edited on Sun Nov 1st, 2009 03:59 am by Gary G

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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 10:40 am
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With a coil resistance in the mega-ohms range, the heater relay is definitely bad.

There's one problem. But sounds like there's another one...

Pegi gave you simple instructions for checking the relays. Just swap the motor and heater relays like she said and run the dryer. Don't make this complicated because it is not.

PS, the motor does not stay running regardless of which relay is connected.

If you're sure of this, then you need an even heat board in addition to a heat relay. Not uncommon in this POS, over-blown dryer.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 11:00 am
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Gary G wrote:  ..When I take both relays out of the dryer and test the coils for resistance both test bad.

what type of meter are you using ?    analog or digital ?

what OHM range setting is it on ?

Coil resistance should read about 2300 OHMS

what reading does the meter do / show ?

 

Check for 48v DC at the Motor Relay Coil (Pink/Black to Pink/Black) while the Start button is pushed.

If no voltage, Even Heat Board is bad.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 11:17 am
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Gary, here you say:

The Motor relay tests in range of 1-2k-ohms as suggested. Can't perform the 48 vdc test because the motor won't keep running.

The Heater Relay is in the mega-ohm range indicating bad.


and then you say:

When I take both relays out of the dryer and test the coils for resistance both test bad.

Is the problem evolving? We can't hit a moving target; GIGO (garbage in, garbage out). What're the real measurements?



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 11:49 am
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should have 50dc on the smaller pink/blue wires at the motor relay. if
yes: replace motor relay
no: replace evenheat board



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 12:39 pm
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http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/17/easy-fixes-for-two-common-problems-with-the-whirlpool-even-heat-dryers/

"The relay coils are outlined in red. A good coil will have a resistance in the range of 1 to 2 k-ohms; a bad coil will either read infinite resistance or something in the mega-ohm range."

should read: 2 to 3 k-ohms

(would require next range-up on OHM meter)

 
http://stevenengineering.com/pdf/37PCRELAY_T9A.PDF



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 01:38 pm
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Gary G
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analog meter

with heater relay connected to all wires, needle moves almost all the way to the right, indicating very little resistance.

with morot relay connedted to all wires, needle does not move, indicating major resistance.

With BOTH relays disconnected both indicae major resistance.  The needle on the meter does not move.  Yes the meter is working because when I touch the leads together the needle moves all the way to the right. (I may be old style but I know how the ohm meter works)

with the relays OUT of the machine and all the wires disconnected when I test the hearer wires needle moves to the right indicating little resistance.

The motor relay wires dicsonnected from the relay indicate major resistance. 

I do not have a DC setting on this meter, have to pick up other meter from sons house later today, but I don't think it matters. I have swapped both relays with each other and the condition still exists.  Press the start button and the motor runs, no heat.  Release the start button the motor stops.

Is it normal for the board, the both relays to go bad?  No power spikes, just putting in a new load of wash in the dryer after a good load completed.

Thanks for the help

 

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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 01:49 pm
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you may need to go to the next higher OHM range.. what range are you using ?

what is the OHM reading of each Relay coil ? ?

what meter do you have that doesn't have a DC voltage range ?



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 01:55 pm
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Gary G
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I am using a very old analog meter, there is no range switch on the ohm meter.

The 3 questions that I have at this point are:

Should the relays read major resistance when unhooked from the dryer?

Should the Red/White (heater relay)  wires test no resistance when disconnected from the relay?

Should the Pink/Black (motor relay)   wires test infinite  resistance when disconnected from the relay?

At this point I think I should just "bite the bullet" and replace the relays,(2) and the control board and be done with it.  And correct me if I am wrong, there is nothing wrong with the start switch, It is startig the motor, the control board and/or the relay is not keeping it running.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 02:05 pm
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Gary G wrote: Should the relays read major resistance when unhooked from the dryer?

Should the Red/White (heater relay)  wires test no resistance when disconnected from the relay?

Should the Pink/Black (motor relay)   wires test infinite  resistance when disconnected from the relay?

define "major resistance"

they should read about 2300 OHMS

colored wires from Even Heat Boards "should" read something,
but I think the board is bad, but can't be sure unless you check the Relay voltage ...

if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
they have these meters, usually $ 4.99, w/battery

but sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store


click on picture




click on picture


OR this one

click on picture



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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 02:09 pm
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Gary G
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Thanks, Harbor freight it is.  But if I should be reading someting from both sets of wires from the control board, it sounds like the board is bad.

 

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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 02:19 pm
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click on picture

 

click on picture



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 09:53 am
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Gary G wrote: Thanks, Harbor freight it is.  But if I should be reading someting from both sets of wires from the control board, it sounds like the board is bad.

 

It sounds like you need to start back from the beginning.   You keep talking about reading from the wires???   The only readings your will be taking with the wires all connected is voltage readings.   When you're taking the ohms readings of the relay coils you need to have at least one of the relay/coil wires removed, (and POWER TO DRYER UNPLUGGED!!!).

From what I understand you to be doing you're remove the wires from the relays and checking the ohms readings from one wire to the other wire, (that's not really going to tell us anything, you need to be checking the ohms of the coils on the relays).

Sure sounds more like just an "Even heat control board" problem to me.

And if your meter only has one setting it's most likely a very norrow range on the low end of the ohms scale so the relay coils would be showing a very high reading on that meter.   How about attaching a photo of the face of the meter you're using.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 01:10 pm
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Gary G
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Thanks for all the help.  Bought a new meter and was able to test for 48vdc.  Test failed, I ordered a new board from the parts store that is linked to this site.  Unfortunately, the part is on backorder    so maybe in 7-10 days?   :D

 

 

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