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 Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 10:41 pm
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unlukydonkey
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i have a f&p gwl10us that shuts down part way through begining of cycle( no lights)

any ideas as to what could be the problem and where can i find service manuals for this washer

thanks in advance

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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 12:50 am
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links PM'd



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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 02:22 am
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unlukydonkey
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ok went through usual suspects

no fault codes displayed

hot and cold valves work

pump responds in test mode

start unit on regular cycle ( or any other cycle) and fills then spins then fills again then power goes out (just shuts off) timed 3 seperate times of approx 1min 38 sec average

any ideas

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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 02:57 am
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DADoESTX
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Although the pump runs, pull it off, check if it's in a bind, bad bearings or something. The pump has thermal overheat protection. GWL10 has the main machine power routed through the pump. Pump trips-out on overheat, machine goes dead until it cools and resets.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 08:54 am
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J5
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check the resistance of the pump approx 33 ohms

check it again when the power goes out

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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 12:12 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The control board draws power through the pump windings. Bad pump = bad power supply.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 12:36 am
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unlukydonkey
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checked the resistance through the motor terminals 32 ohms then nothing on shut down

does this mean that its a bad control board or a bad pump

Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:

The control board draws power through the pump windings. Bad pump = bad power supply.

Last edited on Wed Oct 14th, 2009 12:37 am by unlukydonkey

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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:21 am
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unlukydonkey wrote: checked the resistance through the motor terminals 32 ohms then nothing on shut down ...
? ? what ? ?



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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:34 am
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unlukydonkey
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pulled plug from controller

checked restiance (32 ohms)

plugged back in and ran washer

machine shut down

measured through connecter again

o

 

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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:51 am
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unlukydonkey wrote: ...

measured through connecter again

o
with it disconnected again ?



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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:51 am
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unlukydonkey
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yes

 

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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:52 am
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0 or infinite ?



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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:55 am
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unlukydonkey
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meter reads 0.L (fluke)

 
open circuit

 

Last edited on Wed Oct 14th, 2009 02:55 am by unlukydonkey

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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:06 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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0.L overload (infinite ohms)

could be a bad connection on either end or a "bad spot" on the Motor

when it reads 0.L, check it right at the Motor while you rotate the Motor



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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:52 am
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unlukydonkey
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ok at the pump right after shut down meter reads 0.1-0.2 jumps around as i turn the fan



real hard to get in there not sure of connection to terminals

then 1 min later 34-35

Last edited on Wed Oct 14th, 2009 03:54 am by unlukydonkey

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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 04:19 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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unlukydonkey wrote: ok at the pump right after shut down meter reads 0.1-0.2 jumps around as i turn the fan

real hard to get in there not sure of connection to terminals

then 1 min later 34-35


.1 to .2 OHMS ?

or infinite 0.L flashing  as before ?



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 Posted: Wed Oct 14th, 2009 10:24 am
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Sounds to me like you have a problem with the pump.  I believe that pump has a thermal overload protector that opens if the pump gets to hot.  This would be what is shutting the machine down then when it cools and resets everything works again.

Maybe bad bushings in motor or pump has something, (lint ball), stuck in impeller area causing drag and overloading pump motor?



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 Posted: Thu Oct 15th, 2009 09:48 pm
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unlukydonkey
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ok i give up

replaced pump and controller and still does not work

only change is it takes longer to turn off than it did before

any body have a suggestion  as to which new washing machine sucks the least

that can replace this money pit

buying new machine tommorow cause the laundry is really pileing up now



thanks

donkey

Last edited on Thu Oct 15th, 2009 09:50 pm by unlukydonkey

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