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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > SAV5710AWW Amanatag brake replacement plus? |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| SAV5710AWW Amanatag brake replacement plus? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 02:32 pm |
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1st Post |
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parnelli Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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It seems like once a year I'm on here now fixing one of my appliances.... This year it's the washer. Noticed black powder on the floor and when I moved the washer there was a chunk of plasic/rubber which I've learned from this site was one half of one of the brake pads. It's about 4 years old. I thought the unit was nice when I bought it, but now learn that it's anything but... I don't see any water leakage or rust (YEA!) so I don't think it's got the dreaded triple seal leak problem. It's full of water now and I'm gonna check it tonight to see if there are any moisture issues. If there are not any leaks then I suppose I need to replace that brake pad. The come 3 to a kit, so can I just remove the cabinet, and then remove the screws that hold on the pads without having to take apart the machine? I looked but couldn't find any instructions on how to replace the pads. Also- If I *do* have to take apart the whole thing, is there any other stuff I should replace while it's apart as preventative maintenance?
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 02:54 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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these may come in handy: Service Manual 16022937 10 MB Tech Sheet 16022615 Technical Bulletin TDL-0047-B Water overflow on top load washer. Technical Bulletin TDL-0069-B New Seal Kit Technical Bulletin TDL-0061-B Excessive tub lean to the rear of the washer during agitation. Technical Bulletin TDL-0060-B New Triple Lip Seal and Bearing kit 12002470 Technical Bulletin TDL-0048A-B Water leak on Searcy washers in the area of the Triple Lip Seal and Bearing. Technical Bulletin TDL-0104A-B Helix riding up the spline shaft of the transmission causes noise between the washers and the brake during agitation.
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 03:03 pm |
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3rd Post |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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check the belt while you are down there............ if glazed or heat checked just replace now.....When you do the pads, the brake will be 'on' I.E. pads will be pinched.....rotate the drive pulley and the transmission will lift up releasing the pads..On some units, the transmission will stay raised so you can get two hands in there......... I replace the rear pad last, the brake is not tight on the pad to align the mounting fasteners, which you cannot see the holes, all done by feel.................... one can on the Suds- O- Meter...good luck keep us posted...................
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 03:19 pm |
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4th Post |
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parnelli Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Reg- Thanks for the docs! Do you see any value in doing TDL-0104A-B which is some kind of part for the helix if I don't see any problems now? Will it help me down the road if I do it now or should I just wait until something does? Thanks! Parnelli
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 03:23 pm |
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5th Post |
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parnelli Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Certified- Thanks for the awesome info- that's what I was hoping I could do. Interestingly the back one that you suggest replacing first is the one that broke in half. I can't get to the back one yet- it's still full of water checking for leaks- but one screw on both of the front ones are not only loose but backed out a turn or two. Are they not supposed to be very tight? Or did the factory just do a crummy job? Thanks again
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 03:30 pm |
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6th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I'm not a mechanical master on that model, but for $ 3, and if you're in there, although may be a special order part .. (or locally)
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 03:38 pm |
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7th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Wow! A veritable cornucopia of techie resources for this sorry excuse of a washing machine all in one place. Domo, Reg! 
____________________  If I've helped you with your repair, please consider supporting my flavorite charity: http://beer.fixitnow.com |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 3rd, 2009 02:18 am |
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8th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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replacing the helix would be a waste of time. ive never seen one wear out. just put a dab of grease on it, and between the metal and plastic washer above it while you are in there. the brake bolts should be tight, during agitation the brake pads rock back and forth and recieve a lot of abuse. put some blue loctight on the threads of the bolts before installing them to help them stay put in the future. Its been a while but i think the new pads come with new bolts that have loctight pre applied at the factory.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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