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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > GE Dryer DVL223EAOWW & the thermial limiter

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GE Dryer DVL223EAOWW & the thermial limiter  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:01 pm
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JerkyNic
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The girlfriend moved in and had a larger capacity W&D compared to my Whirlpool stack so we overhauled the laundry room and installed her goodies.  Her GE electric dryer keeps blowing the thermial limiter (fuse) that is on the rear of the case.  I hauled the entire unit outside, hotwired it into the panel in my shed and ran a full cycle with the limiter bypassed.  At no time did the temperature get hot enough to keep me from holding my hand where it mounts.  I changed both thermostats and the limiter (all three), washed out the air flow path from the lint box to the exit tube and reinstalled it back in the house.  Started a load and felt the rear of the case after about five minutes.  I felt enough heat to start distorting my figerprints.  Shut it down and took my shopvac in the attic.  The exhaust has one 90 degree fitting and two adjustible (~45 degree) fittings then exits the roof with a total of about 20' of rolled galvanized tube.  It had light to moderate build up in the tubes.  Cleaned all that out and the "box" on the roof the pipe blows into.  Started the cycle back up and temp came back up to what I thought was a little high by feel, but hey....  I checked everything... Didn't I?  Two loads later the limiter opened again.  I popped the top off and bypassed the limiter again.  You know, for troubleshooting this mystery and each time I run it I check it every few minutes for temp so it does not burn the house down.  I do not feel temperatures like I did when the limiter was good.  Naturally I am seeking a solution because leaving a safety device bypassed is a terrible idea. 

What could I be missing?  Is it possible the blower is not moving enough air?  I feel it moving air but is it enough?  There are no busted veins on the blower wheel.  Could it be slipping on the motor shaft?  The door gasket is not worn and still has a nice seal so it is not sucking air from anywhere else other than the heater area.  Keep in mind, MY dryer had no issues when installed other than being attached to a troublesome washer. 

Thank you, Samurai for grading my test and granting me access to your plethora of knowledge and minions.  In my defense, Power is measured in watts.  Therefore I did not interpret VA to be a measurement of power.  Trick question, eh?

 

 

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:09 pm
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kdog
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  The exhaust has one 90 degree fitting and two adjustible (~45 degree) fittings then exits the roof with a total of about 20' of rolled galvanized tube.  It had light to moderate build up in the tubes.  Cleaned all that out and the "box" on the roof   


 

 

There's your problem, roof vents never work, and you have WAY too much tubing, especially running up. Can you redo it so the vent runs out an adjacent wall horizontally, if not, you may be able to install a booster fan in the vent



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:13 pm
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kdog
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Try running you dryer with the vent disconnected and see if it blows the thermal



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:30 pm
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JerkyNic
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Thanks to the housing revolution where all houses must be "cute" my laundry room is in the MIDDLE of the house. With the idea there is too much travel in the tube which is causing poor flow, could this dryer just be a sissy compared to my other one? I did not know there was a booster fan available to use in a lint type service. Do you recommend something?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:31 pm
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Moostafa
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Hello, my exhausted friend. Our flatulent host has prepared a page dealing with the topic of venting a dryer through the roof, among other locations which you may find to be dimly illuminating. Would you like to see it? Very well, it is here.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:43 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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JerkyNic wrote:
In my defense, Power is measured in watts.  Therefore I did not interpret VA to be a measurement of power.  Trick question, eh?


Nothing tricky at all, it's basic electricity. Behold:

Watts = volts x amps. While dimensionally equivalent, VA is a particular expression of power used to quantify apparent power, that is, power that does not account for the reactive component of the power, which is usually quantified by the power factor (pf) of the circuit being supplied. Apparent power is contrasted with real power, which does account for the the power factor, where power factor = real power (watts) / apparent power (VA).

Moostafa, for the record, my flatulence has been greatly diminished since I started eating Colon Blow for breakfast.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 08:03 pm
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JerkyNic
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As I bow unto you... That is what makes you the Grand Master, sir.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 09:42 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.

Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 2.99




Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK,
if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle
somewhere between 135F and 160F


 



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