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| NO SPINNIN,MAYTAG STACK -O- *!#*! ,NEPTUNE,NIGHTMARE | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 12:11 am |
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1st Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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I THOUGHT THE MACHINE SOUNDED oops a little funny the other night while I was working on my EV. The damn thing will not spin in any cycle but does complete any of the three cycles minus the spins. Oh ........... before we get started ,whats the best way to get into the machine and what the hell is a WAX motor.........................................and SHE wants to know how long this is going to take and how much the parts are going to cost and is she going to have to start going to the laundry mat and if these people realy know what they are talking about on this site and what cost of tea in China is and......................................................................sorry about that. I know you can help me w/my Maytag, Dont worry about all that other stuff.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 01:07 am |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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rodifications wrote: ... will not spin in any cycle ...will it Agitate ? The "wax motor" is a solenoid that uses "wax", that when (electrically) heated, expands, and pushes the solenoid. When de-energized, it takes a minute or two to cool and return to it's normal position. DOOR LOCK MECHANISM The purpose of the door lock mechanism is to secure the door during the spin cycle. When the door is shut, the wire loop on the door engages the rotating gear in the door lock mechanism. When the proper water level is reached and the pressure switch is satisfied, 120VAC is applied to the wax motor. The piston in the wax motor will extend, pushing the latch axle and sliding gear from left to right. Teeth on the face of the sliding gear will intermesh with the teeth on the side of the rotating gear (normally takes about 45-60 seconds). This interlocking of teeth provides the locking action of the lock mechanism. At the end of the spin cycle, when tumbler speed drops below 90 RPM, voltage is no longer applied to the wax motor. The wax motor will cool andr elax the piston on the wax motor. The latch axle and sliding gear are then pulled from right tol eft, disengaging the teeth of the sliding gear from the rotating gear (normally takes 1-1½ minutes). This allows the rotating gear to be in a position to rotate if necessary, should the door be opened. Two switches in the doorlock mechanism inform the machine microprocessor control when the door is latched shut and when the door is securely locked. MHW2000AWW Service Manual
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 01:31 am |
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3rd Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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Yes it does agitate ..........and I do get a door latched indicator light for what that is worth,. I havent tried unpluging and then repluging if that might help Will wait for instruction.........................
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 01:44 am |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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After the Door is locked for a few minutes, then un-plug the Washer and see if you can then open the Door. Shouldn't be able to open the Door for a minute or two.... check the Troubleshooting Flow-Charts starting on PDF page 58
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 04:33 pm |
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5th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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I've removed the front now and put the door back on ,ran through the cycle and all of the switches within the door lock assembly are functioning properly as isthe wax motor. During spin the tub is only turning 50 rpms.......... it never takes off Now what do ya think??????????? I got a couple of ideas but I will await your responce. Oh I 'm runing it empty.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2009 05:03 pm |
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6th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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rodifications wrote: all of the switches within the door lock assembly are functioning properly as isthe wax motor. During spin the tub is only turning 50 rpms.......... Be certain the the wax plunger is extending out and closing the switch at the end (spin enable switch), even jumpering that switch to test. Also ensure that all 3 balance switches are in the closed position, this can be done by unplugging the harness to the switches and measuring resistance of the switches through the harness- should be a closed loop. you can also jumper this harness to test, if still unit does not ramp up, look for an issue in the machine control board which is located in the top r.h. ceiling of the dryer
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 03:45 pm |
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7th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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The service manual does not provide instruction on how to test the machine control board. Not even sure if there is such a thing............no I'm sure there is . I did all of the electrical test in the manual pages 41 thru 46 but had a real hard time w/ the first five pages . Would someone be so kind and help with voltage testing in and out of the MCB. All switches minus the piezo and the inertial unbalance, motor, its board, all three phases, tachometer, .................. all the test in the service manual were done twice. It almost has to be on the MCB but i still dont know. Signed, Discustipaited The model # is MHW2000AWW Last edited on Sun Sep 27th, 2009 04:10 pm by rodifications |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 03:52 pm |
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8th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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no need to start a New Topic each time... we won't know what's been done / tried ... If it Spins at all during the tests, then it would seem to be a problem with the Door Lock / Latch / balance switches as mentioned in previous answers ... RegUS_PatOff wrote: After the Door is locked for a few minutes, then un-plug the Washer and see if you can then open the Door.
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 04:33 pm |
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9th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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Checked each switch individualy,detached from the harness,again minus piezo and inertial . Then got continuity through the interlock plugs w/ the wax motor switch over riden,IE ,SPIN ENABLE. However, I am not sure if there is signal in the low voltage switches within that circut. I only know that what switches could be checked are good , outer tub and strut . Oh , the inertial switch did ohm out through the interlocks which leaves only the cabinet vibration piezo. Yes the door stays locked for almost 2 min. wax motor functioning properly. Last edited on Sun Sep 27th, 2009 04:35 pm by rodifications |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 05:29 pm |
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10th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Heres a way to narrow down whether problem is in the MCB - take a cheater cord (an extension cord with spades on one end) - disconnect the power in wires from the motor controller and attach your cheater in their place(black,white,and ground). Disconnect the jp4 connector from the motor control- plug your cheater into a 120v outlet. The drum should rotate at 50 rpm smoothly. If it does, button everything back up and concentrate on the upper part of the machine as this proves the motor/controller are ok. The machine controller (located in dryer ceiling) are known troublemakers with these units, you failed to indicate whether you were able to measure a closed loop through the 3 oob switches, the control input does not see them as individuals but as a single loop (open or closed). Do not start a new thread to update these findings, it's way too confusing to go back and read in the info from previous posts, simply keep this thread alive until you find the source of your problem
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 05:48 pm |
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11th Post |
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applianceman18007260692 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Kdog I wish you could provide a picture of that procedure Cool post.
____________________ "May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty" Old Irish Saying |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 06:08 pm |
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12th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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I've already preformed that test twice.............motor and its board are good........... I'm sorry I thought I made that clear ,earlier today I am very very gratefull for your time and effort............and patience w/ me as we try to repair this machine and I dont want to come across like some smart ass but its very dishearting to do all of this testing ,TWICE, without any resolve. I wont let the new thred thing happen again. I dont know if it will help but I'm going to post a pic of the MCB Attachment: mcb 003.jpg (Downloaded 57 times) Last edited on Mon Sep 28th, 2009 02:19 am by rodifications |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 02:37 am |
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13th Post |
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nickfixit Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Take a good look at the spin enable switch, it's the one furthest to the right on the door lock assembly. Jump the switch and see if it spins. Check the back of the control board for burns.
____________________ " Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed" |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 03:13 am |
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14th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Your image of the machine control board shows a burnt component adjacent to the violet wire at the end of the second harness
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 05:01 am |
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15th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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Sure as shit your right. I did not even see the burnt R43. Please tell us what would, what is that little thing anyways. And before I replace it what caused it to burn up. I have a soider station with a soider vac and I can R & R the burnt component the right way. But I still dont know what it is, and I dont know how I missed it, even in the photo I didnt see it. Open your eyes dummy. Thanks again for your time and effort lucky for me, you can see better then me. I dont want to replace the component intill I know what casued it, I will do some research on my own and will wait for your response. Again Thank You very much. Rodified
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 05:25 am |
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16th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Check the number on the violet wire and see what circuit that is on the diagram
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 05:27 am |
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17th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Velly true. Topics merged.
____________________  If I've helped you with your repair, please consider supporting my flavorite charity: http://beer.fixitnow.com |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:16 am |
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18th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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The wire has 21 on it which coinsides w/schematic as end of cycle signal which doesnt make a lick of scence! Last edited on Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:19 am by rodifications |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:39 am |
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19th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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rodifications wrote: ... I did not even see the burnt R43...sometimes  My eyesight isn't as good as it once was, either (see RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw) (from another thread) Trying to help wrote: ... I have had the R43 resistor blow on stack units prior. You trace it and swear it is in the chime circuit. On both occasions it was a pinched 24VDC wire to chassis. Once in the oob (out of balance circuit) circuit back by the water valve, and for the life of me I can't remember where I found the other one. Ohm each wire to chassis prior to starting this thing up at the board. Will only take a minute.
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 1st, 2009 01:47 am |
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20th Post |
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rodifications Grasshopper
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During tach diagnostics, checking for voltage from black and blue, the meter jumps from no reading to 4.91 v then to nada again then back to 4.91 v. What kind of reading should I be getting ??? I know what the service man. says, please be more detailed. Service man. says on page 2-11, fourth paragraph If motor runs spinner rotates so on and so on , during that test, THAT THE PROBLEM LIES OUTSIDE OF THE MOTOR AND MOTOR CONTROLLER . Then a test two pages later may prove that the your problem is in the motor. WELL..........WHICH IS IT?????????? NOT GIVING UP NOT GIVING UP NOT GIVING UP NOT GIVING UP NO WAY Anybody got any ideas???????????? Last edited on Sat Oct 3rd, 2009 12:21 am by rodifications |
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| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > NO SPINNIN,MAYTAG STACK -O- *!#*! ,NEPTUNE,NIGHTMARE | Top |
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