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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Spin & Agitate issues Kenmore Elite 110 22954 100 |
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| Spin & Agitate issues Kenmore Elite 110 22954 100 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 09:12 pm |
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1st Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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Serial is CM 1113216. Quite a while ago I noticed the agitation is less vigorous than it used to be. Then, it sometimes will not spin, but drain and just sit and kind of hum. There will be a smell of maybe something electrical, but possibly plastic or rubber getting hot. Other times it will spin fine. And sometimes it spins but apparently not at top speed as clothes are wetter than before. If it does not spin, you can move the basket just a tad by hand (it turns but not freely), reset it to spin cycle, and it spins. The spin/no spin does not seem related to the size of the load. And it's occurring more frequently, now to the point it cannot stay in use. The agitator post turns freely by hand in both directions, and does not engage the bottom fins. I have secured an old but solid Kenmore 80 series (110 92282 100 - anyone got a clue on the age of this?) and I note that the agitator post does not spin freely counter-clockwise, but engages the bottom section and turns them too. And, the basket cannot be turned by hand at all. Finally, if you wash anything with sand or grit, that sand/grit does not flush out for some time - you can run a rinse cycle with the machine empty, and then not see any sand/grit. But, the next load will have sand/grit on the clothes, and it takes several loads before this stops. I expect a simply disassembly and cleaning of something would solve that. Do I have 3 problems (at least) here? Any hint on what to look at first? It's gotta spin. I've not taken it apart, but tipped it over, and nothing obvious - no sign of leaking oil/grease/water. Actually very clean under there. And water temp control is bad (rinse is always cold no matter how set) but that is really easy and cheap (even I can do that w/o asking for help). Toss it or work on it?
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| Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 09:34 pm |
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2nd Post |
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nickfixit Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Replace the clutch, part #285785
____________________ " Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed" |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 10:14 pm |
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3rd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Appliance Age Finder click on
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 10:29 pm |
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4th Post |
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NCSU_laundry_tech Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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if it isnt the clutch then the drive block could be stripped out
____________________ To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems. Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 11:50 pm |
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5th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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It's a week later (I have this substitute 17 year old Kenmore 80 series that must be a tank - runs strong) and I have the cabinet off, the plastic thing that snaps onto the tub top off, and the first top pieces of the agitator popped off. I see the clutch dogs. Recessed quite a bit down is some sort of bolt but I don't see how the thinest wall socket in the world is going to get on it - there is just zero room down there for a socket. If one could get on it, it might be about a 3/8. I was told "replace the clutch part 285785". Best I can tell is that the agitator has to (somehow) come off, then I start down below with the pump, then motor, then tranny. Am I close? I am only very marginal mechanically, but I'm willing to give anything a try. If I screw this up, I was just going to toss it anyway....... We have this major remodeling thing going on, time is hard to come by. But Sunday morning I can steal an hour. I appreciate all your help and patience.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 06:22 pm |
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6th Post |
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corlewtech Master Appliantologist 
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As far as your machine not spinning but pumping and humming, this can be normal becasue these machines are equipped with a neutral drain gear in the gearcase. during agitation, the gearcase is spun in clockwise, this direction allow pressure to be put on a cam to keep the gearcase out put live. when the direction is reversed (for pump and spin) the cam disengages and puts the output shaft in neutral, allowing the machine to only pump and not spin. The prevents the machine from slinging water over the edge of the tub and causing a big mess on your floor. The older model kenmore and whirlpool machines did not have this feature, but you would have to find one almost 20 years old to get that. On the neutral drain models, there is a "flat" spot in the timer, where power is removed from the motor. This allows the cam to fall back into spin position. The flat spot usually is only 15 to 20 seconds, but if your watching it, it seems like much longer. When the motor comes back on, the machine will begin to spin. If you interrupt the power again, and restart, It will resume in the spin engaged setting. In order to engage the neutral drain again, the gearcase has to be spun in the opposite direction again, e.g. wash. This is only suppose to happen when the water level switch is satisfied which means there is water in the tub, and in order to spin, the water needs to be removed, so therefore it has to have the pause to allow it to drain, before it spins. Older model G.E. Washer were notoriously bad for splashing water over their sides after their tubs began to rust. The engineers knew that their design would spin water to the top so they made the outter tub go up to the top of the cabinet and make a seal with a rubber gasket. Some of the water that splashed to the top would remain on the seal and oxidize the metal at that gasket point. Ahh those were the days... A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, to it durring spin when it first starts. provided that there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, It should finally engage at top speed with an empty basket. If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, put it on a spin cycle and open the lid, grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strenght with your left hand, turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin. If the clutch is properly engaging, the basket should immeadealy begin to spin and slip through your hand. If it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. The clutch will usually wear prematurely due to improper loading habbits or the agitator clutch dogs being worn. The agitator clutch makes the top part of the agitator circulate the load and actually helps to balance the load. Over time with not having the load balanced, the tub occilates erratically durring spin and makes an imblalanced load on the clutch. A socket will fit in the agitator hub as long as it is a 7/16" with about a 10" extension on your ratchet. I use a standard 3/8" ratchet system for working on all whirlpool manufactured washer. once your bolt is removed, the agitatior comes up, revealing the drive block nut. Its a round nut with 4 slots cut in the outside edge of it. There is a special tool (spanner wrench) made to apply equal pressure to all 4 cut outs. Unfortunately, I don't have a part number for it though, sorry. When i was first starting out, i was able to use a 2 lb hammer and a punch on this nut to remove it. It has standard threads so lefty loosey- righty tighty. Before you try to remove the inner tub, you will want to make sure your fill spout is out of the way so you dont break it when the tub comes out. this is ususally a white plastic "shute" that attatches to the backboard of the machine. It is held in place by tabs that are cut out of the plastic support arms. apply slight pressure at the bottom of these 2 arms either inward or outward (depending on the way the backboard is cut) to allow the bottom of this fill spout to hinge upward, then the top tabs will slide down and you can rotate the fill spout and tubing to the right side of the outer tub, safe from breakage. Sometimes the tub is "frozen" to the drive block and requires some persuation to remove it. I have found that a small amount of WD-40 in the seating area of the drive block will help loosen things up a little. I have also used a punch on the very top ledge of the drive block with a hammer to jar the drive block loose from the tub. If all else fails, you can thread the drive block nut back on and use a 3 jaw puller to remove it with the center pin on the agitator drive shaft, and the jaws right under the drive block nut edge. after the tub is out, the rest of the work is from the bottom. Disconnect hoses from the pump. I have found it easier to manage the gear box removal when the motor and pump are removed. It is possible to bring all of it down together though. Both the motor and the pump are held in with metal clips. I usually use plier to grab the pump clips-this avoids cutting of the fingers. The pump will usually slide off of the motor with little effort. If it is stuck, well, you have more problems than just the clutch and its probabaly time to start lookin for a replacement machine, unless you like the experience. Now that the pump is gone, remove the harness connector for the motor. if this unit has a capacitor mounted to the side, also remove the 2 red wires on it as well. Follow the wiring harness back to the back panel of the machine. If it is connected to the gearcase, remove it by pinching the top of the clip and pressing it through the hole. Move the harness to the right side of the machine to keep it clear from the gearcase damaging it. There should be a screw holding each motor clip to the motor, newer units use 1/4 inch sheet metal screws, older units use 5/16" sheet metal screws. remove the screws and then insert a flat blade screw driver between the motor clip and the motor molding. use a twist motion to move the clip partially up, then leverage the clips completely out of the way. Make sure to support the bottom of the motor when releasing the clips. It will fall and murphy will laugh at you for not protecting yourself. Now is a good time to check your motor coupling for wear. Black "sawdust" looking material means the rubber coupler is wearing. If the holes in the Black rubber disk are ovaled, the coupler should be changed. Both white couplers should be firm on the shaft of the motor and on the shaft of the gearcase. If they wobble side to side with light to moderate hand pressure, replace the coupler. There are also 4 Isolation grommets that separate the motor from the gearcase, make sure you know where they are. If they are not returned. It will mean death for the coupler. After the motor is set aside, The gear case is all thats left, well and the basket drive tube/brake assembly. There are 3 1/2" bolt holding the gearcase in place. remove these bolts, while supporting the gearcase when removing the last bolt. Bring the gearcase out completely. the agitator drive shaft will seem like it goes forever before exiting the spintube. Once the gear case is out, inspect the clutch drum on top of the gearcase.. The drum, chrome colored, is on top of the gearcase with the agitator shaft through its center hole. You should be able to see a ring on the inside perimeter of this drum. This ring will have a spring dampner attatched to it. There should be enough pad left on this ring to keep you from turning the ring by hand with the drum held in place. of course it will move if you push hard enough. but it should be very hard to turn it. place 1 finger on side of the pring with the longer tab and try to push it with moderate force while holding the clutch drum with the other hand. If it moves. It needs replacement. The replacement kit will have an instruction sheet in it on the specifics to its replacement. Hope this helps
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| Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 05:13 pm |
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7th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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Thanks so much for this incredible response. My machine does the agitate - pause - drain - pause - spin thing just fine, except sometimes the spin never happens at all. It just hums and you smell the "burnt" smell. Sometimes the spins happens but the moisture content of the clothes tell you that it didn't get to full speed. This started when we acquired a towel set with a really thick bath rug. When wet it must weigh 50 lbs. It's not that big so it does not occupy the entire tub, it cannot be evenly distributed, thus it will always have a heavy side and it goes drastically out of balance. Bunching up thick towels on the opposite side does not balance it out. I think that stupid thing killed the machine. New weekend I will try to take a pic or 2 because what I see is not matching what I'm hearing. Last thing I popped off on the agitator is an "inner cap" under the sofgtener dispensor. Now when I turn the agitator I see the agitator clutch dogs come out and turn it the other way, they retract. Is there something else that pops off? I'm looking into a round hole, leading to a smaller square hole, leading into a much smaller round hole, and a bolt in there. I do not see, either on the agitator or on the Sears diagram, something else to pop off - but am starting to thing there must be something.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 05:42 pm |
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8th Post |
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corlewtech Master Appliantologist
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I have seen instances where the drive gear actually strips out. The drive gear is about 4" in diameter and is actually plastic- they dont make em like they use to. Parts are seperately available for rebuilding the gearcase, but I have never botherd with rebuilding one since we usually have some that have been salvaged out of other units. As far as your agitator removal process goes, once the softner dispensor/top cap is removed, the inner cap is the only other part that removes before takinig the bolt out. Careful with this cap, it has a fragile gasket that seals it to the top agitator. after the bolt comes out, the whole agitator assembly removes. Let me know if you need help with the dogs replacement.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 04:31 pm |
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9th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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Between "work work" and remodeling I have had no time. But last night I took a 1/2 inch drive extension and shoved it into this square hole that apparently should not be there. It fit snugly in the hole, and when I pulled it out, a piece of plastic came out, spring attached to the bottom of it. And now, very accessible, is the bolt. This weekend it comes apart for better or worse.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 12:52 am |
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10th Post |
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corlewtech Master Appliantologist
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lets see, if a spring has come out with your socket and extension, you probably have a triple action agitator. If you look on top of the softner dispenser it should have the words "triple action". The small "tube and spring" that have been removed is actually a slide hub that allows the top section of the agitator to oscillate up and down as well as in a ratcheting motion. This was intended to make for better cleaned clothes, however with more moving parts, there are more parts to go bad. If the bolt is still in the rest of the agitator, then the slide hub is broken and would need to be replaced. I looked back through the postings but could not find your model number on this unit. Also after reading the posting again, the pumping issue of sand/grit can be solved by allowing the machine to fill and then having it to drain in a very shallow pan, or better yet, take the machine outside and lay the drain hose down to the ground, this allows the lowest point in the water system to be outside of the machine, run a garden hose into the basket area for 5 to 10 minutes and you should have a pretty clear drainage system. (or you could take the inner tub out and put some elbow grease in there, but thats a lot of headache.) your temp control problem may be in your valve. have you established that both temps of water come in at any time of operation on this machine? A good way to test this is to set the machine to wash and force only 1 temp of water to come on at a time, by selecting that either hot or cold, and having only that water cut-off in the on position. If you suspect a bad temp switch after this test, then swap the harnesses on the water valve to make sure the problem follows the wiring change- now the rinse is only hot. etc. some machines only allow for a cold rinse, or specific cycles may call for a cold rinse. Best of luck!
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 04:59 pm |
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11th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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Model No is in the post title, hiding in plain sight. The machine is in the garage near the door, so the flush out will be easy, I can run a garden hose to it. As for temperature, every setting is fine except those that call for a warm rinse - you get cold. I'll address that last. The softener dispenser does not say 'triple action' but the manual does tout that feature, and the top agitator has always moved up and down - something I thought weird. Guess this is a feature not often seen, maybe unique to the "Elite" machines. And even with no bolts removed, the "outer top agitator" just pulls off now. Leaves the lower part, and a post, that I guess comes off when I pull that bolt. You seem to be saying there is no need to pull the tub, etc. Should I remove the remainder of the agitator and report back? Go at it from the bottom (also, or instead) and work my way to the clutch? Is it possible that the problem of spinning sometimes, not others, is due solely to busted parts in this agitator assembly? Degraded agitator action was the first sign of trouble with this thing and you had to watch a larger load - top section didn't rotate around - went back and forth a little but didn't rotate. At least not until well into the cycle after clothes were loosened up, and with a full load, maybe never. Thanks again for all this assistence!
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 02:39 am |
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12th Post |
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corlewtech Master Appliantologist
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Your understanding is correct that the whole tub would not need to be removed, at least for inspection of the clutch drum and ring. Until recently, i was use to removing the spin-tube with the gear case. We have had a recent rash of clutch jobs where I work, and I have come to realize that removing just the gear case is much more time effective to do this repair. This keeps the water seals intact and undisturbed. When I recondition this type of washer, I usually remove the inner basket anyway to clean the tubs better. Over time, soap scum builds up and causes a musky odor. remove the debris, remove the smell. The agitator output shaft is the only thing bolted through the center of the machine. The agitator shaft is nested inside of the brake/spin-tube shaft. The spin-tube is nested inside of the outer tub. As the motor spins the gear case the basket drive turns the clutch drum, which turns the clutch ring. The clutch ring applies force to a small cam-lever on the bottom of the spin-tube that releases the spring tension that holds the brake pads against the brake drum. That release allows the torque to then be transferred fully to the top of the spin tube, where the basket attaches. The basket is only coupled to the spin-tube through a cast-aluminum drive block. There are 2 tabs on the top of the spin-tube that interlock with 2 slots molded in the inner circumference of the drive block. When the drive block nut is tightened, it forces the basket down, which compresses the wedge shaped sides of the drive block into the face of the spin-tube, much like a compression fitting for a copper water line. To remove the gear case, the only "top side" work that must be done is the removal of the agitator(both top and bottom sections) and removal of a small plastic shim and a small metal clip that ride on top of the drive block. These 2 pieces should be seen as the next items on the agitator shaft just after removing the remaining bottom section of the agitator. After your agitator is removed. you can proceed to "drop" the gear case. Things that you would need to remove the drive block nut for would include: inspecting the surface of the spin tube, inspecting brake pad life and surface contamination, inspecting brake drum surface and contamination, inspecting or replacing the drive block, inspecting or replacing the "self cleaning" filter on the bottom of the basket, cleaning and inspecting of the inside surface of the plastic outer tub, removal of foreign objects from between the tubs, and possibly but not limited to removal and installation of a counterbalance weight ring. By the way, sorry I missed the mod#, it is often the most simple things to see that are often missed. Weak agitation is rarely a sign of gear case failure. the agitator is made of much weaker plastics and is designed to take the majority of the punishment. When the agitator dogs fail, you replace them and usually strong wash cycle is restored. I can see it being possible for the gears to be worn in addition to the dogs if the items being washed are larger than a bath towel, e.g. bed sheets, bed spreads, pillows, rugs etc. These type of top load machines are just no good at washing these items. I would definitely start by removing the rest of the agitator and then commence working from the bottom of the machine.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26th, 2009 06:16 pm |
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13th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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All apart now. Light coating of oil on everything, lots of black rubbery grit type stuff everywhere (not as fine as sawdust). The drive block I figure is the pieces with 3 white prongs, and the black rubber piece. I don't actually see damage, but there is some play in this. Early on I was told "replace the clutch" part 285785 (using the store link on this site). Seems to have been replaced by part 2670. That would seem to be this drum, these shoes, the spring, and maybe a couple other parts that I'll see when I remove it. Looks like the whole thing is held in place by a clip thing. It all may have been "chrome" at one time but no more. Now I have tried to push the spring and make it move and it does not, but with some arthritus in the fingers, comes some loss of strength and maybe that is why. These dogs from the agitator are heavily worn. Seems to be a part of a larger piece that I'd expect to come as an assembly. I have to pry this thing apart? The teeth on the agitator seem to be ok. Some parts of your description seems to be going over my head, even with the thing apart and in front of me. Sears has some nice diagrams on their parts page by it's not working today. I can get the page for this model and I can get the diagrams and parts list for any sub portion, except when I ask for motor, clutch, etc page, it tells me there are no parts available. It worked fine last week, I was looking at it. I'm thinking the worn drive coupling alone could not cause this intermittent spin, so i must need this clutch, also the dogs. If I invest in these and successfully reassemble it, I should be ok on the spin? Then I can flush it out, or pull the tub if I have to. I see crud inside the tub, which is apparently translucent plastic. I still have not noticed this "self cleaning filter" which is, like the model number, probably hiding in plain sight (things do that to all of us).
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 12:01 am |
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14th Post |
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corlewtech Master Appliantologist
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"The drive block I figure is the pieces with 3 white prongs, and the black rubber piece." The piece you refer to here would be called the motor coupler in the diagram. The drive block is grey in color and aluminum, plus it is considered in the top side of the machine. I have seen a few drive couplings cause intermittent spin conditions, that would also explain your weaker agitation as well after the worn dogs. With a coupler that has a crack in it, it will not hold the torque very well coming out of the motor, in either direction. The black debris would be from the coupling device wearing down. with the motor detached from the gear case, I would wiggle the white plastic coupling pieces that are on the motor shaft and on the gear case shaft. There should not be any wobble to these pieces. Also, inspect the area in the center of the couplings to see if you can find a crack in the plastic. A drive coupling is a high failure part and it is less expensive than the clutch kit. It would be very unusual to see a failed coupler and worn clutch ring at the same service time. From your description, despite the authuritis , It would seem that the clutch should grab enough to move the basket. The dogs are independently replaceable. The dogs are located in slots in the agitator hub. This hub is nested into the top portion of the agitator. The small grey sleeve and spring should thread through the middle of this hub. The sleeve and spring hold the hub down so that the teeth on the dogs can make solid contact on the teeth of the agitator. In new condition, the dogs should have 3 teeth visible. If you are able to see the dogs inside of slots, there is probably a retainer ring that is holding the dogs in place. Some of the new ones make it a little difficult to remove the dogs by adding lock tabs to keep the retainer in place. However I do believe that there is a kit that include the whole hub assembly which would include the dogs, of course this is model specific. One other thing you can do to check the clutch is to use a pair of pliers to compress the spring of the clutch ring and remove it from the drum. Inspect the rivet holes that hold the pads to the ring. If these holes are packed with debris, then change the clutch. When a clutch is slipping, as well as any other frictional surface, it will develop a glazed look to it which will reflect light and look glossy, just like a lawnmower belt or washer drive belt that has been slipping. This can account for a burnt rubber or plastic smell. It is quite possible that you may have to take a gamble on either the motor coupler or the clutch kit if what you find is inconclusive. If it comes to this, I would reinstall the machine with the original clutch and a new motor coupler first. If that fixes the spin issue, you save money. If not, then you know would have to drop the gear case again to replace the clutch kit. More money and more time. However, i feel that the motor coupler replacement is not a waste of money nor time, because it will fail sooner or later. By changing it, you take control of when it should fail. I also recommend the top half of the agitator be repaired as well with the new dogs and probably a new slide hub. Inspect the agitator pieces that came out forcefully closely to look for torn edges in the plastics to see what pieces you will need for the repair. Do not run water in the machine until the agitator is repaired. this can cause water to leak into the spin-tube and then you will need gear case as well. When the agitator is installed correctly, it creates a small air pocket that isolates the spin tube from the water. Last edited on Sun Sep 27th, 2009 12:02 am by corlewtech |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 09:44 pm |
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15th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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Went out fresh Sunday and after overcoming initial resistance, I was able to turn the parts around the drum w/o much force. As for the motor coupling pieces, they don't "wobble" but there is just a little play in them. I actually see no obvious wear. Nonetheless, a cheap part and with high failure rate, and the fact that I really don't know what I'm looking at, I'd replace it. All that black grit came from someplace. The clutch is a different story. Seems I need it, and very early on, Nickfixit with 1400 posts gave a part number for the clutch. I get a different part when I search by model and I guess I'm going to go with that. Then there is this drive block which we think must be bad and is cheap. That is under the "spanner" nut if I read things correctly (Sears fixed their page) so i would just buy the spanner wrench and have it forever. I'm under $100 and the high wear parts are all new. And maybe I do the bottom and see how it goes before working on the top. The water temp I can live with, or maybe I'd play with after all this is done. Plus flush it out and/or clean it up, and I'm back in business. I did dig out the papers, this thing is 7 years old and has served households of 2 people in it's life. Oughtta have some more in it at $850. Problem: I decided, for practice if nothing else, to reassemble the thing prior to buying parts. The only thing I am worse at than taking things apart, is putting them back together. The long shaft goes up it's hole and I get the gearcase positioned to reinstall the 3 bolts, but it all stops about 1/2 inch short of mating up. I have wiggled, wobbled, turn parts, talked nice, cussed, and walked away and come back fresh, and still, it won't quite get there. Now there is a washer type thing that sits on this sharft whne it's removed, and it has 2 very small tabs on it. These face the gearcase, I hope, I actually took it off w/o paying any attention. Any hints on this?
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| Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 10:27 pm |
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16th Post |
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corlewtech Master Appliantologist
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The 2 small tabs of that washer face down toward the gear case like you mentioned. It is necessary in the reassembly process. It provides a smooth surface for the copper bearing surface of the spin tube to ride on. Without the washer, the spin tube would ride on the "C" clip that helps hold the clutch to the shaft. Probably what has happened, with gravity pulling down on the basket and spin-tube, the brake has slipped a little allowing the it to slide down a little. with the gear case out, try to turn the white arm on the brake mechanism at the same time as shoving it up toward the top of the machine. This should allow the brake to almost seat to the top of its drum. with no twisting force on it now, it should hold long enought to seat the gear case in place. If it still doesnt go home, make sure that the brake actuator arm is not hitting directly on the clutch ring spring. It is best to line the clutch up in such a manner that the spring lines up 180 degrees from the brake actuator arm. The part number he gave for the clutch kit is correct, that is the genuine FSP part number that we stock in our shop. Im sure it will cross to a proprietary number depending on where you get it from. As long as you start with the 285785, you should be good to go.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 10:47 pm |
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17th Post |
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stevematlbch Grasshopper
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You probaby think I died or something. Work and other issues, no let up, intense. I just grabbed a few minutes and I got the bottom together, except I have 2 little sheet metal type screws left over. I fiddled with that thing for 20 minutes and no luck, then pulled the shaft all the way out and reinserted it, and it slid tegether perfect, I really do not know what was different. Lemme hit the Sears site and get the exploded diagram and hopefully spot those screws, then get the top, won't be today. Gotta log back into work site again. Thanks for all the help!
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