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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool GGW9250PW0 Diagnostic question |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3 4 |
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| Whirlpool GGW9250PW0 Diagnostic question | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 06:01 am |
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41st Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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The tech that was here today said airflow was fine...
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 07:35 am |
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42nd Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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So if it's running, heating and has good airflow - what is the issue with the machine
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 12:46 pm |
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43rd Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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as of yesterday, I had to replace my second HLT in little over a month.
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:53 pm |
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44th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Make sure the replacement thermostat is the correct one, also check outlet polarity 205 deg F according to diagram Last edited on Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:54 pm by kdog ____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 06:22 pm |
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45th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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I will check for correct part... the plug polarity shouldn't be an issue... nothing has change in the room.. but I will check. I will check the temp also.. I appreciate your time and insight! J
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 06:35 pm |
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46th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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joetry wrote: the plug polarity shouldn't be an issue... Unless something goes wrong - my parent's 14 yr old direct drive suddenly quit one day, much to my surprise, the plug polarity was incorrect and had the motor centrifugal switch switching the hot wire all these years, the white wire finally couldn't take the heat anymore and the terminal burnt off of the wire - simple repair, but probably unnecessary had the plug been wired right
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 07:06 pm |
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47th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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point taken....
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 04:48 pm |
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48th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Polarity is OK... Still working after a few loads.
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 05:13 pm |
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49th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house. Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer. If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you, click on picture $ 4.99 sometimes on sale $ 2.99 ![]() Dryer Vent Vent should be rigid metal. Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place. NO plastic NO PVC NO screws Foil Duct Tape is OK. With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 05:21 pm |
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50th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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flexible metal 6 foot run vented out the wall. I will check the temp later and update. Airflow is strong out the back... and strong out the wall. I have made sure that there are no blockage in the vent pipe. j
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 08:18 pm |
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51st Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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So I got my thermometer, started up the dryer... and bam... no ignitor no flame.... and back to the original problem no heat... heading out to get another HTL... gonna, swap out Thermistor and logic board ( I have the new one...) I am at a lose..
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 08:44 pm |
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52nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the High-Limit Thermostat is bad again ? .... they (normally) don't go bad ... It's a self-resetting Thermostat, not a Fuse.
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 10:33 pm |
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53rd Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK, I So now that I am back on the floor... have the old HLT in hand... Part number for the bad one: 40113801. I have replaced it with the part number found in the tech sheet: 3403140. While I agree and would never argue the fact is the HLT in my hand when ohm'd out shows open. The new shows closed. I did notice one thing that is odd, i cleaned the inside of lint a month ago, it has a nice coating of lint in the cabinet again. not as much as on the 1st clean but still enough. So since I seem to have gotten the folks attention at my local parts depot, I have in hand for no charge right now a new thermistor, I am going to put that in, the new HLT and the electronics that is still in the package (left by the last tech). I know.. it goes against the concept, only replace when broken... but I am at a lose and these are the parts that seem to have the impact on the HTL.
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 10:41 pm |
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54th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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joetry wrote: ... have the old HLT in hand... Part number for the bad one: 40113801. I have replaced it with the part number found in the tech sheet: 3403140... 40113801 is a Thermal Fuse (not for your model), not a self-resetting High-Limit Thermostat 3403140 is the correct part number for a High-Limit Thermosat they look similar ![]() but there still seems to be a high temperature problem ... if not taken care of, it'll blow your real Thermal Fuse. click on picture ![]()
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 10:54 pm |
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55th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Reg, The part number I have for the High limit thermostat comes right off the failed component. the 40113801 is stamped on the base, along with 360f, B2 and y197. OK, I got it... the The 4011 while it looks like the HTL is not the right part. So what happens if the tech that was here put the wrong part in.. the Thermal in stead of HLT... should it have worked at all? and does it explain the short time to failure... does it explain the heat issue... And the fun continues... J
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 10:56 pm |
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56th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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someone put the wrong part in ... It'll work for a while (or maybe longer if there wasn't a possible over-heating problem)
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 11:01 pm |
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57th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yeppers... I had the flu early in the week and the wife needed the dryer so I broke down and let her call the tech that replaced the HTL a month ago... So a month ago the HTL failed, which would have been the orginal. The vent temp with an empty load is coming in @ 142F. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for associated with temp issues?
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 11:15 pm |
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58th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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joetry wrote: Any ideas as to what I should be looking for associated with temp issues? blocked Vent, crimped Vent Hose ... The self-resetting High-Limit Thermostat is 205 F Your White Thermal Fuse is 196 F You've been blowing the 360 F Thermal device .. something's hot ...
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 11:30 pm |
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59th Post |
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joetry Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Going to go get drunk. Reg: I have been replacing the hlt. Sits up on the blower tube at about 1 o'clock. So I agree I have something hot just wish it would stay hot. Sounds like life. Thanks for all your help. J
____________________ jl |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 12:23 am |
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60th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Try a load with the vent disconnected and see what occurs Do it once you sober up though Last edited on Sat Nov 14th, 2009 12:24 am by kdog ____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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