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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 11:14 am
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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missed part about gas dryer. relay is 120 on board not 240



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 11:21 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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NCSU_laundry_tech wrote: missed part about gas dryer. relay is 120 on board not 240
RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... shouldn't have fire without Motor Spin (Motor Centrifugal Switch) ..
joetry wrote: Tried with second motor/switch...   same problem...

Then the Black Wire from the Motor Centrifugal Switch to the Ignitor, MOV, or Gas Valve Coils, is shorted to ground ...



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 05:47 pm
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joetry
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All: I want to thank you for your insight and suggestions...with your guidance I was able to resurrect the dryer that the tech told me need to be replaced... Not sure if I was part of a scam or not but what I found was that the tech reversed the wires between the belt switch and centrifugal switch M4 was on m5 and 5 on 4. I put the original controller board back in ... spin and fire.. but I think all the tinkering I popped a 5volt lead to the display panel... the leds are not showing clear numbers... told the wife she just needs to wave her hand in front of her face real fast... I will figure that out after the long weekend...

So the bigger question... the original problem of spin no heat seems to have vanished... all original components are back in... COuld it have been a simple as a loose connection... lords know I pulled them all off and back on numerous times...

Anyway.... enjoy the weekend... I will hoist many a cold one for the board!!!!

J



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 07:20 pm
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joetry wrote: ... the tech reversed the wires between the belt switch and centrifugal switch M4 was on m5 and 5 on 4....

OK... but shouldn't cause the fire without Spin problem ...

That would be connection 6M ..

take a closer look at all of them



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 08:26 pm
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Unless I read it wrong it was 5 but you might be right. I will double check.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 5th, 2009 10:48 pm
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If 5M White & 6M Black were transposed, that would have given you:
fire and NO Spin ...   



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:01 pm
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I'm back for a second round...  Looking for a suggestion as I at the end of my rope.  Got the dryer working and it was fine.  Aboit a month ago the High Limit Thermostat went.  Actually had some one come out and replace.  Today the High Limit Thermostat went again.  Airflow is fine.... 

Any suggestion on what I need to replace next to correct this constant failure of the HLT.

Thermal fuse is ohm at 0

Thank in advance....




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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:27 pm
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The High Limit Thermostat is self re-setting ...

what part number did he replace ?

What were the symptoms before it was replaced ?



 

 

 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:39 pm
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FYI:  Thermistor is ohm'd out at room temp 10  fuse is 0




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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:40 pm
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Problem before was spin no heat...  he replaced the High limit switch (second one)



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:51 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: The High Limit Thermostat is self re-setting ...

what part number did he replace ?

Thermistor should read about 10k (10,000) ohms at room temperature.

 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:53 pm
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I don't know the part... but it looks like the picture above.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 08:40 pm
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Looking at the techsheet..  there looks like three things Thermal Fuse, Thermistor and logic board.   I have a new logic board that I haven't put in ( it was left by the last tech that came out on the 1st go around..). 

Could there be a short some where in this run that would blow the HLT out...  is it worth replacing the Thermistor? 

or do I keep a few HLT on hand :) 




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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 10:28 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: RegUS_PatOff wrote: The High Limit Thermostat is self re-setting ...

what part number did he replace ?



What part number did he use ?

The High-Limit is self re-setting, it shouldn't go bad.

If it does, it doesn't "open", it'll stay closed when "hot" and then the Thermal Fuse will blow.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 10:47 pm
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So you kind of validate why I hate using others to do what I could do with a little diligence.  All I know is that he replaced it and it worked. 

I called the service company and all I got was that he noted he changed the High Limit Thermo... they were going to get me the part number. 

In his troubleshooting he actually jumper out the switch and it worked...

Dumb question... know the answer but could the Thermal fuse be the issue... I know it is either good or bad... which would make me think there is a short or loose wire that is shorting out something...

sorry for the cryptic message.. trying to deal with this while battle the flu





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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 03:27 am
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joetry wrote: ... could the Thermal fuse be the issue...


Themal Fuse could be bad, but you tested it ...



click on picture



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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 04:45 am
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What are the chances of it being marginal...  I know kind of like being a little pregnant.   So if the fuse is ohm'ing out correctly... do I still replace it as suspect.. 

Is there somewhere in the harness I should be looking for a short. 

Also notices in the tech sheet that if thermistor test out OK change control logic.  I have the board but would still like to know that it is actually fixing it or am I just going to be back in this spot in a month...

Is there something about the load in the dryer that could be causing this... it seems that on timed dry with a heavy load is when this fails...

Thanks!!!



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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:20 am
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Is the glow coil lighting up on the gas valve?



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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:30 am
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Prior to replacing HLT no... after replacing yes.  fires up fine.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 11th, 2009 05:45 am
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If the burner is firing, is there good airflow?



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