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Kenmore HE3 dryer model 110 82826 101  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 08:03 pm
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ltramon45
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There is not lights on the display, inside, no beeps, there is basically not power to the front of the unit. The thermal fuse has resistance and the Thermistor does not. I replaced the board and nothing.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 08:28 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Then at least the Door Switch may be bad if the Light doesn't work ...(if the Light worked prior to the outage)

ltramon45 wrote: ... I did not find continuity between the neutral and P1-2 white wire...OR there's a Line Cord / Power problem



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 08:29 pm
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ltramon45
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So you are telling me that if the door switch is bad it means that the front display will not work.

Are you willing to talk to me on the phone.  I can call you if you give me a number

Last edited on Wed Aug 26th, 2009 08:32 pm by ltramon45

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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 08:52 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Front Display won't work if there's no neutral to the Controller (P1).

The Drum Light won't work if the Door Switch is bad, and Dryer possibly won't Start.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 10:37 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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this whole time i thought the problem was the motor wouldnt turn. so youre saying there are no lights at all on the user interface? if so that sounds like a bad user interface if you have 120V on the black and white wires at the terminal block



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 12:19 am
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ltramon45
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How do I check P1?  And I get 250 at the terminal block at the rear of the machine between the center and the L1 and the two outers.  L1 and center I only get .04 vac

Last edited on Thu Aug 27th, 2009 12:32 am by ltramon45

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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 12:56 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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ltramon45 wrote: ... I get 250 at the terminal block at the rear of the machine between the center and the L1 and the two outers L1 and center I only get .04 vac? ? ?

 |<----------- 240v ---------->|
 |                                        |
L1          N           L2
 |                    |                   |
 |<--- 120v--->|<---120v--->|


 



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 01:12 am
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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"L1 and center I only get .04 vac"

nothing is wrong with the dryer. you need to fix the breaker or the outlet. should be 120V



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:14 am
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ltramon45
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If the outlet is not working why do I get voltage readings in the toe panel area when I get my Fluke volt alert 1AC-A II near it?  I checked the outlet with my volt meter and the volt alert and there is no readings.  But that does not explain why I have voltage in the toe panel area when the machine is plugged in.  Or is this one of those things were it has dropped the neutral.  Hopefully I inserted the test leads far enough.

Last edited on Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:16 am by ltramon45

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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:33 am
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kdog
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You only have one leg of power, you need 120 red to white, 120 black to white and 240 red to black

Shut breakers off and then on again and remeasure

Last edited on Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:35 am by kdog



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:49 am
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"Or is this one of those things were it has dropped the neutral. "

thats what im thinkin



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:28 pm
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ltramon45
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Ok here is the update. The outlet readings are 96 vac on the left and 100 vac on the right. Both are 249 vac

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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:35 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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that don't add up ...

try measuring all (3) connections to a good house ground (not on the Dryer)

are you using a digital meter ?



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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 02:49 pm
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ltramon45
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Using a Fluke 73 multimeter.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 27th, 2009 03:15 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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ltramon45 wrote: ... Or is this one of those things were it has dropped the neutral... 



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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2009 01:29 am
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ltramon45
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Okay lets try this again. I just checked the motor and there was no resistance to the white/orange wire and blue back wire or the violet and blue back wire. I am told that if the outlet has 249 volts it should be fine. I also have 249 at the back of the machine. Do I need to have it plugged in to check the resistance at the motor?

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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2009 01:54 am
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kdog
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The 240v circuit is only for the heater, the motor requires 120v, thus the "neutral" wire. You cannot measure the resistance of the motor windings as the motor switch is open when the dryer is not running. The voltage values that you posted are incorrect and must be provided as required before you have any chance of getting your dryer to work. NSU and Reg have suggested that you likely have a problem with the neutral wire (loose in the box etc), and that comes from intuitive experience. Correct that problem first, then see if your dryer works



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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2009 03:32 am
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ltramon45
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Okay.  Well my next step is to replace the outlet and wiring to the panel.  I will do that tomorrow and report the findings.  I am getting frustrated with this issue.  Its probably something simple.  Good thing I am not a doctor.  Thanks for the patience.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2009 03:34 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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did you check the voltage from Neutral to a good house ground ?

with the Dryer plugged in...



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 Posted: Fri Aug 28th, 2009 03:35 am
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ltramon45
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no I did not, but will also do that tomorrow before I do any thing else.  When I perform that test all I have to do is touch the probe to something else that is grounded correct?  So will the breaker panel work?  Or is there a better way to do it?

Last edited on Fri Aug 28th, 2009 03:40 am by ltramon45

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