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Maytag Neptune MDG6700AWW Gas Dryer Not Heating

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:11 pm

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JoeyGee
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My Maytag Neptune Gas dryer MDG6700AWW does not heat. the drum spins, but there is no heat. I have it taken apart, and there is no "glow" or evidence of any pilot light or anything.

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:28 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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It would seem one of the (2) Thermostats blew.. # 16 , # 51
( # 11 is for electric Dryer )
(I think # 16 would stop the Motor )

MDG6700AWW Tech Sheets

MDG6700AWW Service Manual

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Last edited on Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:32 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:40 pm

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JoeyGee
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Thanks a ton for the fast reply. I will check that part.

I did forget to mention that the gas selenoid does click, but there is no other sound after I turn it on and the drum spins.

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:43 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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The Gas Solenoid shouldn't "click" unless the Ignitor glows ...

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:51 pm

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JoeyGee
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Well, I do hear a click, but I am not exactly sure where it is coming from, to be honest.

The one thing I did not check is the gas line, but all valves are open, and I can't see how that would be an issue. It was working, and no changes were done to any gas.

Should I check the thermostat for continuity? Would I leave the dryer plugged, and remove one the wires going to the thermostat?

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 06:02 pm

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kdog
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No DO NOT leave the dryer plugged in- disconnect the wires from the suspected component and then check continuity. When you hear this "click" - is it from the lower part of the machine where the gas valve is, or from the console area by the control?

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 06:03 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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continuity checks with Dryer unplugged ...

The Ignitor should glow even if there wasn't any gas ...

Ignitor should be about 40 OHMS to 400 OHMS ..

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 06:29 pm

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JoeyGee
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The click is definitely from the lower part, near the gas valve.

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 06:31 pm

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JoeyGee
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Do I check continuity on the thermostat, or the ignitor?

Does it matter which wire I unplug (red or white)? Where do I touch the other probe?

I am a complete novice on electrical. Do I check with a multimeter?

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 06:37 pm

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kdog
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Once you hear that initial clunk, the ignitor should begin to glow (not instant,may take a minute), if that occurs, it will continue to glow and get hotter and then clunk again which shoud produce ignition

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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 06:39 pm

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kdog
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If you have a multimeter, use the lowest ohms setting

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 12:55 am

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dje123
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must be the ignitor

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 06:50 pm

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JoeyGee
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I spoke to an appliance parts dealer, and he had me bring in the ignitor, flame sensor, thermostat, gas coils, and thermistor. All tested fine. The thermistor tested a "little weak" but he didn't figure it would be enough to keep it from heating.

Any suggestions? Should I try to replace the thermistor?

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 07:16 pm

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JoeyGee
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I just put everything back together and tried it again for giggles. The ignitor now glows, and I get a flame for 5-10 seconds. It's progress, I guess...

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 07:29 pm

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If you could do some voltage tests while the Dryer is running ...

Blue wire at Relay on Controller Board, or at Ignitor, or at Gas Valve Coil, to a good ground (chassis) should = 120v AC

If that's OK, then, measure either side of Hi-Limit Thermostat to ground (chassis) should = 0v AC.

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Posted: Sat Jul 25th, 2009 07:29 pm

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JoeyGee
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I put everything back together and tried it once more before I called in the pros, and it worked! I don't know if something was loose or what, but everything is working fine now. I didn't replace anything.

I am very thankful for the appliance parts place (Servall on Tremainsville in Toledo...) that did not sell me the parts I thought I needed and insisted I bring in parts to be tested. I didn't pay a dime, eventhough they definitely earned my money.

Thanks for all the help.

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Posted: Sat Jul 25th, 2009 07:36 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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JoeyGee wrote: I just put everything back together and tried it again for giggles. The ignitor now glows, and I get a flame for 5-10 seconds. It's progress, I guess...
could be a symptom of intermittent Gas Valve Coils

JoeyGee wrote: I put everything back together and tried it once more before I called in the pros, and it worked! I don't know if something was loose or what, but everything is working fine now. I didn't replace anything...

Last edited on Sat Jul 25th, 2009 07:37 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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