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Kenmore washer 110.28822790  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:43 am
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acillatem
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Doing some clothes today, and went out to the garage and noticed the washer had stopped during the rinse cycle. Pushed the knob back in, and pulled it back out, and it started up where it left off, but instantly stopped when I let go of the knob. Tried it again, same thing. Found that if I kept pulling on the knob it would keep going, and stop when I let go. I got it to keep going on it's own without me pulling on the knob, but now it's sporadic.......meaning it's shutting off randomly, and we have to go and just touch the knob and it will start back up.........until it decodes to stop again, and so on and so forth. I will admit that earlier today I went to push the knob in to shut it off for some reason, while in a very bad mood, and pushed it in pretty hard. Actully hit it in with the ball of my hand.It did keep going after I pulled it back out, but the first time it stopped was shortly after that. Could be coincidental, but I'm thinking I may have broke something, and maybe it needs to be replaced. Anyone agree/disagree? Also, I'm assuming that knob just pulls off, correct?

EDIT: It did it again..........it stops just past rinse. Lift the lid, and the washer is full of water. Move the knob around, and nothing, but turn it just a little more clockwise, and pull it out, and it continues on. Just wanted to add that.

Last edited on Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:52 am by acillatem

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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 05:13 am
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hvacdrd
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You are on the right track. The spring and catch mechanism inside the timer wears out and fails to hold the contact. I've seen some customers stuff paper or a piece of cardboard behind the dial for temporary use. Here is the timer for your washer...




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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 05:16 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Sounds like a bad Timer ... Knob look like it screws off ...

click on picture



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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 06:14 am
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acillatem
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hvacdrd wrote: You are on the right track. The spring and catch mechanism inside the timer wears out and fails to hold the contact. I've seen some customers stuff paper or a piece of cardboard behind the dial for temporary use. Here is the timer for your washer...



Think I did it by pushing it in really hard, or just coincidence? It's an expensive part, so it sounds like it's doomed, yes? Just doublechecking. And thanks to both of you that posted.

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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 11:48 pm
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acillatem
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Just doublechecking.......is the spring and catch mechanism inside the timer anything I can fool with or??? To be sure, a timer exhibiting these symptoms is toast essentially, correct? Money is a little tight,so just want to be sure before buying the timer.It is almost 12 years old, if that helps. Thanks again, in advance.

Last edited on Mon Jun 15th, 2009 12:46 am by acillatem

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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 05:41 am
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acillatem
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O.k. did it again, so I'm ordering the timer. Looks like I just pull the end caps off take out the screws and whatnot, and just tip that console forward, after removing those 2 screws behind the knob on the front, and it basically comes right out, correct? If I'm missing anything, please let me know. Thanks!

Last edited on Mon Jun 15th, 2009 06:33 am by acillatem

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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 09:35 pm
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acillatem
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Real nice to get the brand new, $150 switch in the mail, and go to install it, only to find out the the 2 holes in the front of it that are supposed to be threaded for the 2 screws that hold it to the console to go into.....AREN'T! Anyone have any suggestions? I though I might be able to swap the plate from the old switch, but it doesn't look quite that simple, unless I'm missing something.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 09:53 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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what part number did you get ?    3950200   /   1174



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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 10:11 pm
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acillatem
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: what part number did you get ?    3950200   /   1174

Yep........looking at the packing slip and box right now. Absolutely the right part. The one difference I noticed(that I wouldn't think would matter) is that the tag on the old switch has a part # 3950200B, and the new switch has a part # 3950200C, but I'm assuming that is a new revision or something, but I could be wrong. I'm sure I could send it back no problem, but I'd sure rather just figure out a fix, as I have the switch in front of me.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 10:56 pm
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acillatem
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Anyone have any suggestions?

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 Posted: Sun Jun 21st, 2009 12:11 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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aren't those self-tapping screws ?



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 Posted: Sun Jun 21st, 2009 12:32 am
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acillatem
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No, but I went and picked some of those up. Should work, and if not, just a sheet metal screw with a lock washer.

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