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Whirlpool Washer LE9200H  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Apr 17th, 2009 11:56 pm
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az_repair_gal
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...and this is the back of the motor itself.

Attachment: back_of_motor.jpg (Downloaded 96 times)

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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 12:01 am
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lartoday
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Last edited on Sat Apr 18th, 2009 12:02 am by lartoday

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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 12:05 am
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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now just remove the 1 bolt in the agitator and then the 3 bolts holding trans and she should slide out

edit: get a new coupler too

Last edited on Sat Apr 18th, 2009 12:05 am by NCSU_laundry_tech



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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 12:26 am
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az_repair_gal
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Couple of questions from this apprentice...

1) How can you tell the coupler is bad? Or are you just recommending that as long as I have this apart I might as well replace it?  Probably not a bad idea.  Machine is about 19 years old.

2) Why am I removing the transmission? 

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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 12:42 am
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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"2) Why am I removing the transmission? "

i only read about half the thread and thought you were replacing it :)

yes replace the coupler due to age



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To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.

Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM

riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 01:29 am
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az_repair_gal
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Ok, thanks.  Back to the issue at hand... I still have no idea what is causing the problem and don't know how to find out.

The washer is lying in pieces all over the garage floor.  Any suggestions? (please?)

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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 04:19 pm
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az_repair_gal
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Got the back piece of the coupler off the shaft (it was on there pretty tight) and I have to say that the coupler looks ok.  No, scratch that - it looks remarkably good for its age (19 years!). It doesn't look exactly like the one that's available now - has small round holes instead of the larger teardrop shaped - but the outer plastic pieces are intact, show no wear at all and fit snugly on the shaft.  The holes on the inside piece are all perfectly round and symmetrical.  When I put it together and twist, I get virtually no play at all.

What's next - should I go get that spanner wrench and check the drive block?

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 Posted: Sun Apr 19th, 2009 06:38 am
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Tronicsmasta



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try cleaning off the dust on the motor with an air compressor or small brush... then change your transmission and you will be good to go...

BTW you do not need to remove the spanner nut to change out the transmission.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 19th, 2009 07:23 pm
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az_repair_gal
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Ok, here's where we are so far... (note the "we"... this is now a team effort)

First I need to mention that Phoenix has some of the hardest water known to man.  It's great for bathing, but very rough on appliances and fixtures.  Combine this water with powder detergent, and bingo - instant cement.

-- We removed the basket.  We didn't plan to do this. However, when we took the cover and agitator off we saw the horrific effect of switching from a coarse-grained powder detergent to a very fine "hypoallergenic" baking soda type powder for a couple of years.  Not only were 80% of the basket holes completely clogged, but there were also stalactite-like formations between the basket and tub.  Some of these had gotten so thick and long that they were beginning to score the outer tub.  SO... the basket had to come off.  That took some doing, as it was essentially glued to the shaft.  Found an earlier post that helped a lot.

--We have now cleaned the basket.  The area under the agitator had buildup that was over 1/4" thick in spots. Most of the deposits came off with a few gentle whacks with a rubber hammer.  We've chipped off most of the rest and cleaned out all of the holes. 

--That "magic clean filter" was a disaster. I don't even want to tell you what was underneath it.  It cracked when we tried to remove it.

--We cleaned the tub.  Before we did that, We disconnected the hose to the pump so the gunk and hard water deposits wouldn't fall in there. There was so much calcification around the drain hole that I'm honestly surprised water was draining at all. 

--We checked the drive block.  It's in position on the tabs and looks ok except for a little bit of surface rust on the bottom lip and some white pitting on the lower surface (threads are fine).  It looks like detergent and water were creeping up the shaft.  I found some white pasty stuff around the block that I am sure does not belong there.  Looked and felt a lot like that #*&^# baking soda laundry soap. 

--Husband noticed that the clamp on the inlet hose was rusted through.  When we removed it, the end of the hose broke off on the inlet spout. I stuck my finger into the hose and it came out black and greasy.  Not good.

So, today we're going to replace the transmission.  Tomorrow we'll make a trip to the parts store for the inlet hose, filter plug kit, and the rear panel support (it was very old and brittle and broke when I tried to take it off.)

Questions for the masters:

1) There's some rust in one area on the underside of the basket, where the "magic clean filter" used to be. The rust has started eating through the paint in one area about 2" in diameter. What do you recommend to treat/stop the progression of rust on the basket? Is there a paint that will hold it off for a while?

2) We notice that the filter plug kit takes care of the 4 large holes in the bottom of the basket.  What, if anything, do we need to get for the 4 small holes on the tube where the magic filter's tabs used to be?

3) We are replacing the tranny today.  I've seen 'pop the old one out and slide the new one in.'  Remember that I'm still an apprentice.  Should we be greasing anything?

Thanks~

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 Posted: Sun Apr 19th, 2009 10:44 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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^ dont need to grease anything.



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To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.

Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM

riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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 Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2009 03:50 pm
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certified tech group 51
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Is there any reason you cannot use liquid detergent?? It is better if using cold water..........................

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 Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2009 06:01 pm
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az_repair_gal
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Yes, we switched to liquid about a year ago, but by then the damage was already done.  Spent an entire weekend chipping this stuff off of the basket and agitator.

Attachment: soap.jpg (Downloaded 40 times)

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 03:16 am
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az_repair_gal
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Update:  Replaced the tranny. We then put everything back together, replaced the cabinet and started up a very small load... and we still have the same problem.  Whiny sound on agitate, banging on spin.  ARGH!!

I opened the lid during spin and everything seems to be balanced ok.  The only other two parts that were mentioned were the drive block and the drive coupler.  I showed the coupler to the guy at the parts store and was assured it did not need replacing.  And it did look ok, but on very close inspection today when we were putting everything back together I saw just a tiny bit of rounding in the shaft hole, but only on the outside facing the motor...

Here's a pic of the drive block, taken before we put it all back together.  It looks ugly, but I don't think it has fallen out of position.  Could this be the problem? 

We're running out of ideas (and parts).  Looking for some help from the masters... any takers? 

Attachment: drive_block.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 04:53 am
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When you opened the lid during the spin cycle, did it stop within 3-5 seconds or did it coast to a stop ( and  knocking ) ??  The drive block notches should be sitting on the spin tube tabs or the tabs need to be in the notches............. How fast is the banging sound..... fast?  slow?

Last edited on Tue Apr 21st, 2009 04:55 am by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 06:07 am
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denrayr
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how about a video or sound clip?



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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 11:13 am
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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whiny sound on agitate could be the pump. try it with pump removed(dont need to remove hoses). if thats not it then its the motor or the coupler since you have a new gearcase.

banging on spin could be the basket drive



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To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.

Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM

riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 07:30 pm
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az_repair_gal
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Made a short 3-second video of agitate with the lid up (4MB) but it's too big to attach.  Can email to anyone who wants to see/hear it.

Watching it a few times, it sounds like it's trying to grab but is slipping...  I hear whirr...whirr... whirr... knockknockknockknock whirr...whirr.. whir...knockknockknockknock. 

It gets louder and more frequent until it just quits and all I hear is motor hum.  I can wait and restart it, it sounds ok for a few seconds then the whirring increases in pitck and it starts knocking (or slipping) again.  

 

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 08:22 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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you could upload it to YouTube and post the link here...

OR

you could email it to me and I may be able to compress it and upload it here... 


Last edited on Tue Apr 21st, 2009 09:49 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 09:17 pm
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az_repair_gal
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Reg_US, I sent it to you.  Please let me know if you have trouble receiving it and if so I'll see about making my washer famous on YouTube. :D

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 09:50 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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I got it OK...



I'll see what I can do, or it'll be on YouTube... :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ojtzsjqj3C8 sounds scary ...:spaz:


 

Last edited on Wed Apr 22nd, 2009 03:16 am by RegUS_PatOff



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