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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag MAH 2400AWW produces error Code 3E

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Maytag MAH 2400AWW produces error Code 3E  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 12:00 am
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shmerham
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Great Samurai, I seek your guidance. My wife and I own a Maytag MAH2400AWW front-loading washer, which succumbed to gravity and took a faceplant. Apparently it's not crash test rated because now it won't spin. Left to its devices, it produces the 3E error. A check of the windings shows 0 ohms on the rotor pair and both stator pairs of wires.

We were doing a remodeling project and moved the washer on a dolly. Going down a one step drop from our door to the backyard it fell off the dolly and onto the concrete step on it's front. Whoops. Logic suggested that it shouldn't survive a fall, but my warrior instincts suggested that it would fight on. Logic won in this case. The washer starts up and begins the cycle, but the motor never spins and for a 55 minute cycle, it sits at 54 minutes until eventually it produces the 3E error.

I got the tech manual and saw that 3E means motor drive failure. I pulled out the control board and checked the motor winding wire pairs. I'm getting 0 ohms on the rotor pair and on both stator pairs. A short is not something I would have expected from an impact to the front of the washer. I would have guessed that the motor windings were fine and the control board wasn't working properly. Could the impact have done something to the motor to cause all 3 wire pairs to be short?

I seek guidance as I wander down the path of troubleshooting the 3E error.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 02:09 am
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You need to use a digital Ohm meter on the 200 Ohm scale.

MAH2400AWW Tech Sheets



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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 02:10 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Highly unlikely that a little fall like that took out the motor. The motor windings should have very low resistances: Connector CN1 Pins 8 & 9 = 3.6 ohms, pins 1 & 10 = 1.1 ohms, Pins 5 & 10 = 1.1 ohms. A typical bad reading for a motor winding would be a very high or infinite resistance.

Much more likely is that a wire harness on the motor, motor control board, or user interface board came loose. Check for loose connections at Machine Control Board, Pressure Switch, Motor, Tach Harness and Motor Control.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 08:32 pm
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shmerham
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I checked the connections on the control board and the ones on the motor that I could get at without taking the motor off.

I went into service mode and ran a quick spin test.  The motor doesn't turn at all for any of the steps.

Is it possible to pull the connector on the control board, run the test again, and put a volt meter on the rotor and stator pins to see if the board is operating correctly?

Also, the washer is less than a year old.  Any chance the maytag man would ignore the fact that I dropped it and cover the repair under warranty?

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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 10:37 pm
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"Also, the washer is less than a year old. Any chance the maytag man would ignore the fact that I dropped it and cover the repair under warranty?"

depends on the tech and if there is any other damage



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 Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 03:21 am
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shmerham wrote:

Is it possible to pull the connector on the control board, run the test again, and put a volt meter on the rotor and stator pins to see if the board is operating correctly?


Absotootly. I'm not sure what supply voltage you should read there, but you can probably get the spec off the motor nameplate.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 20th, 2009 05:37 pm
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shmerham
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Cool!  Problem solved.  It was the control board (not as cool).

I did a spin test and checked the voltages on the rotor and stator pairs - nothing.  That made me feel pretty confident that the control board wasn't... controlling.

I purchased a new control board and it spins again!

One more dumb question:  The start button came not installed.  It doesn't seem to just snap in as I would have expected.  Is there a trick to installing it?

Thanks for your help!

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