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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire Front Load Washer |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2   |
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| Frigidaire Front Load Washer | Rating: 
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| Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 11:25 pm |
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1st Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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We have had a Frigidaire 417.39012890 last year the washing machine began to stop in the middle of the cycle. If the door was pushed in the cycle would continue. I noticed that the door latch was broken so I replaced it. The problem went away for a while. However it returned several months later. The latch looks fine. The lock actually seems to still be locked but it is not tight. I was going to replace the door lock assembly but the one I ordered did not look like the correct version, so I returned it. Is there any way to confirn that the door lock is the problem or could this be a signal problem with a door switch.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 11:52 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Does the Door Lock Light turn ON ? Does the Door actually lock ? While the Door is locked, unplug the Washer to check if you can then open the Door right away, if not, check again after a few minutes. Early Gallery Wiring Diagram EARLY Gallery SPEED CONTROL page 1.pdf EARLY Gallery SPEED CONTROL page 2.pdf
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 04:28 pm |
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3rd Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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The door lock light does turn on. The door is locked (when pulled on the door does not open all the way). When pulled on during cycle the drum stops spinning and the cycle and I think the cycle is stopped. If you push the door in then the drum starts and the cycle continues. The door solenoid hums when engaged and the sound changes when the door is pulled on. I have not tried to unplug the washer. The access is a pain.
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 05:19 am |
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4th Post |
grey one
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If too hard to unplug - hit the breaker .
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 01:08 pm |
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5th Post |
NCSU_laundry_tech
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"If you push the door in then the drum starts and the cycle continues." sounds like bad door latch to me
____________________ To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems. Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 04:29 pm |
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6th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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The part you replaced, is it the part on the door??...........................................Door CATCH.... .p/n 131279000......... new replacement number 131279001....... there has been a few design changes with the lock assemblies..............
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 04:49 pm |
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7th Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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The part that was replaced on the door was a the washer door catch #131279001 This was not that same part as the original but seemed to work at least for a while.
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 05:28 pm |
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8th Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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I also hit the breaker during a cycle. The door stays locked for a short while after the power is out then releases.
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| Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 02:38 am |
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9th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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What did the 'incorrect lock assy' look like...... A large box with a complex looking wire harness and a piece of concrete? The new catch my be the catch for the new lock assy.................. the new lock assy kit has a concrete counterbalance with a cut-out in it. The old counterbalances without the cut-out would hit the lock assy during an out-of-balance spin, cracking the lock housing...................................
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| Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 03:22 am |
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10th Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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No, The incorrect lock assembly was just a the lock assembly. Just the plastic housing. I see what you are talking about on repair clinic, and that is not the unit I recieved before. I guess I will order this assembly and see if this fixes the problem.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24th, 2009 10:15 pm |
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11th Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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I ordered the door lock kit and it comes with concrete counterbalance block. Can anyone give me some instruction on how to get this block installed? The instruction sheet starts with removing the old block. Will this block come without removing the front panel? Can you even remove the front panel? If you don't replace the block is this going to destroy the lock? It seams like it is pretty far away from the lock housing. Thanks http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-417.39012890-%3d%3dc226i820920&PartID=820920
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24th, 2009 10:58 pm |
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12th Post |
NCSU_laundry_tech
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toss the concrete in the trash
____________________ To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems. Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2009 05:03 pm |
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13th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I don't know if NCSU want you to throw the new one in the trash or the old one  ........ After collecting a few they look good in the garden.......You can remove the old piece from the front, I think the instructions want you to disconnect the front part of the boot... Use a block of wood to keep the spin basket/outer assy pushed to the rear.....The new block has a cut-out / notch so it will not hit the lock assy during a wild out-of balance spin.. This is why the upgrade is made........................Not replacing the block is up to you, but the new one is there for a reason.. The front panel is not removable.......................... keep us posted
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2009 09:45 pm |
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14th Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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I think I can get the concrete out (maybe). I am noe tring to figure out how to change the lock assembly. It there some trick to reaching the connections at the top of the machine. I don't think my arms are long enough to reach.
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| Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 06:46 am |
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15th Post |
grey one
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The boot comes off the door opening , then you can reach in and change switch.
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| Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 10:12 pm |
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16th Post |
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jhoyt Grasshopper
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The new switch is in. The instructions were not very clear but I figured it out eventually. Who's idea is it to color coat wires brown and black and then put them inside a dark box?
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| Posted: Sun May 16th, 2010 07:45 am |
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17th Post |
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JennyVienna Grasshopper
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I just found this forum. I have exact same problem with the same model washing machine: it only works if the door is pushed by hand. The machine is 10 years old, however it was only used once a week maximum. So I guess it should still work for many years to come. Other than the door problem, everything runs great. Here are my questions: 1. My washer is attached to dryer on the top. Is it possible to replace the lock assembly without removing the dryer? 2. If the answer to item 1 is yes, how difficult it would be to work around from the openning of the door (the boot). 3. In Step 8 in the instruction of part P/N 131888900, where is the SCU (speed control unit) located? Is it possible to reach it from the boot openning? 4. Step 13 on the instruction of the part ( P/N 1318889000), where is this pump located? Is it possible to reach it from the boot openning? How to "Remove pump covers on the pump with an external cooling fan", as a matter of fact, I don't get how and why cooling fan is involved here, does this only apply for the situation that the front panel can be removed? 5. The instruction doesn't talk about replacing the counter balance weight. How should that be replaced? 6. After all, if the task is too difficult for me to carry out, how much time do you estimate a professional will take to repair it? (Repair work cost about $120-130 per hour in labor). I am trying to figure out, if the work is beyond my capability, should I replace the whole unit or should I have professional to do the work.
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| Posted: Sun May 16th, 2010 08:07 am |
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18th Post |
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BrntToast Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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you will be doing 90% of the job through the access panel on the front(at the bottom) the boot only needs to be removed to connect wires to the latch as for the concrete..... throw away the new one, i have never changed one, and never had the old concrete damage the new latch the pump is front right, the SCU is back right it is easier to remove the back if you can, but i install that kit all through the front access
____________________ The only stupid question is the one not asked hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here http://brnttoast.googlepages.com/home feel free to prvt msg frigidaire questions my way (i dont log in every day) |
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| Posted: Sun May 16th, 2010 08:50 am |
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19th Post |
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JennyVienna Grasshopper
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Thanks, Master BrntToast for your advice.Here is another stupid question even if it's already mentioned before. Why must the electrical wires or whatever fixed to it be replaced? The fact that by pushing the door, everything works well, doesn't that mean that the wiring is OK? If that's true, Can I just replace the plastic housing and attach it to the old wiring? I am trying to see whether I can eliminate openning the boot, or opening the pump and SCU which seem to be little bit challenging.
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| Posted: Sun May 16th, 2010 07:57 pm |
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20th Post |
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Moostafa The Ayatollah of Appliantology 
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Hello, my questioning friend. The existing harness may not fit on the new door latch assembly. BTW, our tumescent host has assembled a page with a couple photographs and sketchy instructions which may assist you in this, your dark hour of need. Would you like to see it? Alright, it is here.
____________________ Allahu Akbar! Moostafa |
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