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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag MLG2000AWW Will not complete wash cycle

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Maytag MLG2000AWW Will not complete wash cycle  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 06:33 am
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denrayr
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there are 2 wiring blocks that connect the washer harness into the upper harness. this block is on the left and right side if i remember. make sure you dont have any loose wires at these connections.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 03:41 pm
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Tronicsmasta



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the bottom most connector is your JP4 connector.... with the unit on wash, pull that connector and it should rotate one direction approx 60 or so rpms



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 04:51 pm
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Electron2002
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denrayr wrote: there are 2 wiring blocks that connect the washer harness into the upper harness. this block is on the left and right side if i remember. make sure you dont have any loose wires at these connections.I checked those out and everything appears good there, without removing the pins individually from the connectors and checking pin tension.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 04:53 pm
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Electron2002
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Tronicsmasta wrote: the bottom most connector is your JP4 connector.... with the unit on wash, pull that connector and it should rotate one direction approx 60 or so rpms
Thanks, once I get the unit back into enough of one piece that I can try to operate it once again, I will give this a shot.

If the motor doesn't begin to turn, would that indicate the motor control has failed?

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 12:06 am
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Electron2002
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I'm a little confused about the whole motor and MCU conversion kit. After some point did these parts become standard in these units? Or did this kit come around only after these models had left the market? Is it at all possible for my unit to have already had the newer parts installed from the factory (if it is a newer built unit)?

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 12:17 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Neptune Motor Controller Bulletin



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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 12:25 am
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Electron2002
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Thanks for the quick reply Reg! So since mine is from after the production change, if I do need to replace the motor and/or control, I should only need to put the two components in and not need to change any of the wiring that comes with the kit. Does that sounds right to you guys?

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 12:35 am
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If your Controller looks like the new one, you're all set ...

click on picture Motor $ 130

 

click on picture  Controller $ 213
 

click on picture  Both $ 220



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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 12:45 am
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Electron2002
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Looking at the pictures of the control unit, it does not appear to be the same as the one I have. The connectors on Are very different between the parts you sent me photos of and the one that I have. You can see what mine look like in the photo on the first page.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 02:38 am
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Tronicsmasta



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electron... i had an open winding on a motor today and thus had to change out the mcu.... the mcu is good if u want it... its the orignal mcu so u wont have to convert it.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 02:46 am
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Electron2002
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Thanks Tronicsmasta! Does it look like the one that I have in mine (see last post of first page)? It's just that I am seeing a few different setups in regard to the types of electrical connectors the MCUs are using. If it will match up, I will gladly take it!

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 03:06 pm
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Electron2002
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I wasn't able to do any work to the washer last night, but I did take a quick look at the serial number and found that my unit is a series 91. So apparently it is a very late build.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 07:32 pm
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Electron2002
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From what I can tell poking around online parts stores, the MCU in my unit is a further revision beyond what is included in the conversion kit. I can only find a listing for a series 90 MCU. Does that mean that that MCU was used starting with series 90?

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 Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 10:42 pm
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Tronicsmasta



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TDL-0043A-B says the new mcu was installed on the mlg2000 series at series 62 and higher... so u should have the newer board that is encased in a hard plastic. the JP4 test still applies... with the unit in agitaion pull put the connector with the red blue yellow and white wires.... its a 5 pin connector... the basket should spin at 70 rpms or so... that will verify the mcu operation... if it doesnt spin and there is 120 volts on the black and white wires thedn that mcu is bad.... try that and get back to me.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 06:26 am
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Electron2002
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OK, so I got the machine back together enough to do some tests.

I pulled the JP4 connector and the motor turned at the 60-70 rpm speed you described. I also back-probed the black and white wires while it was operating at that speed and I found 120 volts.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 04:36 am
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Did you down load the service manual ?  Did you do the troubleshooting on pages 3-6 and 3-7 ? I did  a mle 2000 about two months ago with the same symptoms as your unit..  I changed the control board ( one in the dryer, upper right corner ) no visable damage to the components on the board................ up and running.................. parts from repairclinic.com....

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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 07:58 am
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Tronicsmasta



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that verifies that all your drive system parts and controls are ok... i agree on the ccu ...



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 06:00 pm
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Electron2002
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OK, I've ordered the Control Board. I'll let you guys know the outcome.

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 04:59 am
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Electron2002
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Well, no luck. I put the board in and it still does not operate.

I am wondering if there is some internal restriction that is causing the water to fill too slowly..... or maybe something is causing the machine to think that it isn't filling properly.

The hoses checked OK before and it always seemed to fill fine, but I can't help but wondering....

Thoughts?

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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 06:02 am
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denrayr
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if you put the machine in a drain/spin cycle will it finish? or is it only shutting down during periods where it should fill?



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