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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag LAT9406AAE washer Agitator Shaft comes all the way out

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Maytag LAT9406AAE washer Agitator Shaft comes all the way out  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2009 11:47 pm
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firecat53
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 Hey. I've got a Maytag LAT9406AAE (ser#23xxxx)(Dependable Care) top load washing machine. Two problems:
  1. It's leaking through the outer tub seal/bearing -- thanks to this forum I found the directions necessary to fix that. Just have to order the parts :)
   2. The metal agitator shaft can be pulled straight out of the transmission. The machine still works fine, as long as the agitator and shaft are fully seated into the transmission. We found this when soaking a load of clothes overnight, and finding when the cycle started that the agitator was turning little, if at all. After looking at the manual and a bunch of exploded diagrams, it looks like I might just need to replace the agitator spring clip, which seems to be the only part that actually holds the shaft into the transmission. Do I just need to pull off the cover of the transmission and replace that clip? I'll check for water inside and make sure the broken clip didn't damage any gears. Should I just drain the oil when I remove the cover, or just tip the washer on its back and keep the existing oil inside the transmission case (as long as it's water free)? It also looks like I'll need new sealer for the transmission case. Should I buy that along with the parts or is there something generic that can be used? If I do replace the oil, what kind should I use (I couldn't find that info anywhere)?

Thanks very much!! Let me know if I can provide any pix or further explanations.

Scott
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 Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2009 02:20 am
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hvacdrd
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 Service Manual - Orbital transmission service info starts on page 3-42. Typical gear oil is 90W. You should be able to replace the clip by laying it on its back as shown. I did have one a few years ago of the same vintage that did something similar, when I tore into it I never found the "missing" clip. I suspect it never made it on during initial assembly.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 1st, 2009 08:05 pm
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firecat53
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 Ok, I got all the parts and successfully replaced the agitator shaft clip and (like yours, I also could find no trace of the original clip inside the transmission), the tub bearing and mount shaft seal kits. It tested fine with no clothes and then successfully washed about 3 loads of clothes.

However, it now will agitate, but will not spin, even without any clothes inside. The belt is moving and slipping on the pulley, but the trasmission will only spin a little if I push it, but then it will slow down and typically stop or spin very slowly (with the smell of burning belt in the background).

Does this sound like I need to check the transmission again, or just replace the belt? I checked through the FAQ, but didn't see any immediately applicable notes.

Thanks very much!

Scott

Sigh .... I thought my first washer repair job went a little too smooth :(
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 Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 12:50 am
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 Your trans is held in by a white half moon plastic clip located external to the trans gears right in your outer tub (item 18) that is why you did not find any trace of it internal to the trans. It is located right where the trans shaft goes into the trans body.  It is probably laying in-between the tubs.  Did you happen to take the pulley off the trans down below for any reason?  If you did, you might want to check out the setting of the drive lug in the manual hvacdrd posted for you on page 3-52.  If you have it set incorrectly, it might not be releasing the brake all the way. 

Attachment: Trans.jpg (Downloaded 65 times)



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 Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 01:04 am
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firecat53
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 Thanks for the reply! That white clip was installed when I originally took it all apart, but the shaft was still pulling out. I went ahead and installed the agitator shaft clip (#16 in the diagram above), which fit perfectly and holds the shaft in place.

When I reassembled everything after the repairs, I failed (forgot -- darnit!!) to reinstall the white clip. The shaft still remained in place, but somehow (I'm guessing because of this, but I'm not sure), the transmission became too difficult to move for the belt after 3 loads of clothes ran through fine, so it would agitate but not spin, and the belt would smell like it was burning.

SO, today, I took it apart again and found the top sealing surface on the mount shaft boot seal (right name??) was completely gone and the boot was filled up with gooey black stuff that was probably the remains of that sealing surface. I've reordered that part, put the white half moon back on the shaft, and changed the transmission oil for good measure (put in 80W-90 gear oil).

Hopefully the missing white ring will account for the boot seal surface destroying itself and when I put in the new one in a few days, it will all work and stay working this time.

Sorry, that was a bit rambling! Please let me know if what I did sounds reasonable!!

Thanks,
Scott
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 Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 09:04 pm
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firecat53
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 Someone please help!! I replaced the mount shaft boot seal as I said above, put the white clip back on, and reassembled it all, careful to not tighten everything too tight, as stated in the directions. And again, after one load of clothes, the sealing surface on top of the boot seal was completely destroyed....you can smell it burning up as the washer spins.

What the &*(*&)( am I doing wrong????? This is a $60 part and I've gone through two now!!!

HELP!
Scott
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 12:43 am
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 are you installing the boot upside down?



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 12:53 am
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firecat53
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 No, the carbon face of the boot is up.
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 01:16 am
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firecat53
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 Here are some pictures -- I don't know if they'll help or not. These are with the outer tub installed. The first two show the transmission shaft coming out from inside the outer tub. The third and fourth pix are the boot seal and mount shaft. You can see that the carbon facing is gone from the top of the boot seal. The last picture is the outside of the outer tub showing the tub bearing.

Thanks,
Scott











added CR/LF after each picture

Last edited on Wed Apr 8th, 2009 01:30 am by RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 01:35 am
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denrayr
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 the transmission is too low. check the installation of the brake and pulley.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 04:26 am
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firecat53
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 Ok, I looked at the brake and pulley setup underneath the transmission. I can't tell just from looking if it's out of place. I can tell you that I didn't take apart any of that (I just removed the transmission cover and the tub bearing/mount shaft assemblies, that's it) and before I replaced the tub/mount shaft stuff, the only issue was water leaking and the agitator shaft pulling out....none of this burning up of bearing parts. I enclosed some more pictures for reference. Thanks very much for helping me out!!!

Scott












Hope I got the 'returns' after each pic this time :) Sorry!
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 05:43 am
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denrayr
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 you can see in these two pictures the transmission is too low





but in this picture the bottom of the transmission doesnt look too low.



the only thing i can think of is the outer tub is bent up creating a larger gap between the two. how much force did you use when you swapped out the tub bearing?



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 05:53 am
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firecat53
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 Hmmmm, it came out pretty easy with the foot stomp, per the manual. When I put the tub bearing in, I used a block of wood to protect the bearing, and some whacks with a mallet on the wood to seat the bearing all the way.

In your second picture, are you pointing at the outer smooth cylinder or the inner threaded part?

If I understand correctly, you think I may have whacked the bearing too hard when I installed the new one and bent the outer tub inwards? So I would need to remove the outer tub and try to GENTLY (sort of) pound the bottom back out (down) a half inch or so?

Thanks!!!
Scott
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 06:38 am
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denrayr
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 in my picture im pointing out the gap between the dome and the transmission. before you get too drastic with trying to bend the tub i hope that trying to help stops by and reads this thread, he is the maytag master....



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 06:45 am
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firecat53
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 Ok, I'll be patient a bit and see if he comes along :)

I understand the first picture -- the shiny gap above the transmission. I was actually asking about the second picture you marked on, inside the tub. Is the brass colored ring part of the bearing, and the threaded stem part of the transmission? I'm having a hard time picturing how that should look. Should the threaded part (that the mount shaft threads onto) be sticking farther out?

Thanks!
Scott
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 06:50 am
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denrayr
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 yes, the brass is the bearing. the threaded part should end at or just above the bearing.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 07:06 am
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firecat53
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 Ok, now I'm confused :) Please bear with me! If I pounded the bottom of the tub down, that would move the tub bearing (the brass cylinder) down, right, because the tub bearing is affixed to the outer tub? Which would fix the gap that you showed down below the tub, but would make the threads stick even farther up over the brass ring inside the tub.

Or do you mean that the BOTTOM of the threaded part should be at the level of the top of the brass ring?

Sigh.... sorry! It's getting late and my brain is fuzzy!

Thanks!
Scott
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 07:11 am
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denrayr
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 firecat53 wrote: Ok, now I'm confused :) Please bear with me! If I pounded the bottom of the tub down, that would move the tub bearing (the brass cylinder) down, right, because the tub bearing is affixed to the outer tub? Which would fix the gap that you showed down below the tub, but would make the threads stick even farther up over the brass ring inside the tub.

Or do you mean that the BOTTOM of the threaded part should be at the level of the top of the brass ring?

Sigh.... sorry! It's getting late and my brain is fuzzy!

Thanks!
Scott
yes, the bottom of the tub would need to go down to fix the gap. this would also allign the threaded part so the threads will end at the top of the bearing.  Im terrible at explaining things, i hope i made it a little more clear.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 07:20 am
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firecat53
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 Ok, I think I understand :) I'm going to bed now. I'll check back in the morning and see if anyone else has chimed in on this. This is my first major appliance repair job, so I'm looking for all the help I can get!

Thanks so much for your help tonight!!!

Scott
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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 11:30 am
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 Try to lift the whole transmission up and see if it will raise up that 1/4" or so that it looks like it is too low, (actually after thinking about this, even if the brake pak has unscrewed partially the tranmission won't lift back into position without screwing brake pak all the way back in.  The pulley and stop lug will keep the tranmission from going any higher then the position up to where the brake pak is screwed in).

If it moves then your lower brake pak has somehow came partially unscrewed.

You need some better pictures of the brake pak just above the large pulley on bottom, I can make out some threads showing at the lock tab that holds the brake pak in place.  If this comes unscrewed then the transmission will drop down along with the lower transmission bearing that the brake pak holds up in place.

It is very possible that if the tub nut and/or mounting stem came off very hard the transmission may have turned, (brake locked), and unscrewed the brake pak letting the transmission down that 1/4" which is what is tearing up the new seal, (way to much pressure and bind and immediately destroys new seal).

Last edited on Wed Apr 8th, 2009 11:36 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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