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Stuck trying to remove transmission/clutch from Kenmore 70 Series Washer

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Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 11:58 pm

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Axle-San
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Greetings!

Based on readings in this forum, I figured that the Spin cycle on our Kenmore/Whirlpool 70 series washing machine was no/low power due to a problem with one of the parts near/around the motor. So I have removed the agitator, removed the pump, removed the engine, and removed the three bolts that hold the transmission to the tub. The transmission came down about an inch and half but won't slide out any further, making it impossible for me to access the clutch. I can see inside the clutch a bit, the pieces inside seem tight. I have tried to remove the transmission/clutch but no luck. I have removed a couple of c/e clips too from above the clutch but nothing happened.

I'm thinking:
1) it is just stuck hard
2) Maybe I'm missing a step in removing the agitator
3) Something else

The attached PDF shows photos.
Link to PDF with Photos

Also, as you can see in the photos (last page) there appears to be a major mold/muck buildup around the inside of the plastic tub. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Axle

Last edited on Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 12:54 am by Axle-San

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Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 04:32 am

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grey shrek

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From looking at your pictures , it seems your problem is your drive block at the spin basket(first pic.). Take the nut off and pull basket out. Of course you have to remove tub top. Too bad you never looked there first , the bottom end of unit may be o.k. , but now you have to take it out and redo clutch. Any stain at water pump where it hooks to motor - change pump.

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Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 05:29 am

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Axle-San
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Thanks. I assume that by nut you mean the lighter gray ring on the first page/picture of the PDF I attached. If so, I can't get it to turn. It seems designed for a special tool.

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Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 11:54 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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Yes, that is what he means.

Place a 2x4 on top of the agitator shaft and give the top of the 2x4 a good smack with a hammer, the transmission will come the rest of the way back out then you can clean the shaft up where the seals ride, (that is what is keeping it from drop out nice and smooth).

Then you need to reinstall the transmission and do all the work from the top to remove the spanner nut, to get spin basket out and replace the basket drive block and clean the scum buildup off.

You will need the spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut, or a big chissel and hammer and may have to replace the spanner nut along with the drive block.

Last edited on Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 11:55 am by Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 01:39 pm

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Axle-San
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So if I understand correctly...

Based on the photo on the first page you can see that the problem is actually with my drive block and it needs replacing. (Can someone explain what is actually wrong with it that causes everything to work except for having now/low power during spin cycle?)

And to do this I should...

1. Use a 2x4/hammer to knock out the agitator shaft
2. clean the shaft up where the seals ride
3. remove the spanner nut - with a spanner wrench
4. Get spin basket out
5. Replace the basket drive block
6. Clean the scum buildup off
7. Reassemble the stuff I wrongly removed earlier

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Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 03:57 pm

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Poobah
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your a quick learner...also turn the blue spring (and band) inside the clutch assembly if it is very easy to turn replace the clutch also...if it has qite a bit of resistance you have some life left...I have replaced a TON of these in the last year or so

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Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 02:57 am

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Axle-San
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I got the shaft out. The clutch looks OK. I was unable to buy a spanner wrench today, will try elsewhere tomorrow. Two questions:

1) Without a spanner wrench, I'm unable to get the nut off the drive block, and looking at this link it seems like there is a specific Kenmore spanner tool for the job. Any specific tips on getting the nut off without buying a spanner wrench. I've tried using a hammer against vicegrips as well as a screwdriver but it won't budge.

2) How can you tell that the drive block needs replacing based on what you see in the photo?

Thanks.

Last edited on Tue Feb 24th, 2009 03:32 am by Axle-San

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Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 11:56 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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You can tell the drive block is striped out because of the aluminum shavings around the top, but mostly that the basket drive shaft tube, (with the two tabs at the top), is sticking up above the top of the drive block.

The two tabs on the drive tube mate with two notches in the drive block, which are no longer there. So, now the basket has dropped down and could have rubbed a grove in the bottom of the outer tub and the drive tube slips inside the drive block now causing the slow/no spin.

Make sure you get this all apart before purchasing parts, if the outer plastic tub is worn thru to much it might be time to be shopping for a new washer.

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Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 01:45 pm

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Axle-San
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I can't get the nut off the drive block. I think I may have to order a spanner from a parts store here in Canada. Any suggestions? And I was wondering if while I'm at it, I should buy the replacement piece? Otherwise this will take too long to do. I have attached a new clean photo of the drive block. What part exactly do I need to replace? This is a kenmore 70 series washer.

Much thanks.

Attachment: drive block1.jpg (Downloaded 137 times)

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Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 03:08 pm

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Poobah
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You can take a chisle and hammer and remove the tub nut. Just place the chisle in one of the slots and tap it gently should unseat itself pretty easily. For what your going to pay for the spanner wrench and waiting go ahead and get a tub nut (part #21366 about $6 bucks) just in case you bust the old one.

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Posted: Wed Feb 25th, 2009 02:50 am

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Axle-San
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Masters,

I am stuck. I got a serious metal chisel and hammer and the spanner/nut won't budge. I assume it needs to go counter-clockwise (but tried it the other way too in desperation).

I've made a scene so far where you can see how I am trying to get the nut off.

Should I just try and break/chisel it off? Bang even harder?

Again, thanks for the help.

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Posted: Wed Feb 25th, 2009 12:11 pm

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Budget Appliance Repair
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Take a look at these two discussions. They both have info on the same problem you have and important info about those bent tabs on top of the spin tube.

http://applianceguru.com/forum2/5958.html
http://applianceguru.com/forum2/141.html

The spanner nut is standard lefty-loosy, righty-tighty.

Your not getting enough leverage with your hammer swing with the chisel and you're deffinitely not swinging hard enough, that spanner nut must be good and tight.

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Posted: Thu Feb 26th, 2009 01:27 pm

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Axle-San
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Alright, almost there.

Just to avoid ordering the wrong parts etc. I've made this short video of what I think I need to do next, also with a good view of all the key parts.

Would someone be so kind as to check it for me? And a million thanks for your help so far.

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Posted: Thu Feb 26th, 2009 01:56 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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your last (2) video links don't work, they only link to this Topic (Stuck trying to remove transmission/clutch from Kenmore 70 Series Washer)

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Posted: Thu Feb 26th, 2009 02:16 pm

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Axle-San
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Hmmm. Here is the direct link. The 1st video is no longer relevant. Thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9b4n8hoz98

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Posted: Fri Feb 27th, 2009 11:10 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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Don't worry about the small amount of oil lose from having transmission on it's side.

Spanner nut should be ok, outer plastic tub looks ok.

Order a new drive block.

If you still had the transmission in you might understand better as to how I was trying to explain repairing the bent spin tube tabs.

With the transmission installed the agitator shaft will give you something for the tappered chissel to ride against as you tap it between the bent tab and the agitator shaft, thus straightening bent tab back to it's correct position. The fitting of the new drive block upside down is to see that you have the tabs back to their correct position for a good tight fit in the drive block notches.

Drive block you need is part# 389140

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2858

Unfortunitely, you being in Canada, RepairClinic isn't going to be any help to you. They don't ship to Canada, but you should be able to find one with the above part# at any of your local appliance shops, this is a very common part.

If you click on the link above you will be able to see a bigger picture and notice the 1/16" - 1/8" thickness, (the part with the notches that is missing on yours).

Last edited on Fri Feb 27th, 2009 11:34 am by Budget Appliance Repair

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William Burk (Willie)
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Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 12:33 pm

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Axle-San
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Alright... I got the part. What a difference between it and the old one!

Problem though, as I was getting ready to put it all together, this small gold pn came out from somewhere. See attached.

What to do?

Much thanks!

Attachment: Photo 9.jpg (Downloaded 131 times)

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Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 01:22 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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that is a shipping pin i believe. you dont need it anymore

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Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 01:28 pm

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telefunkenu47

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shipping bolt...fuggetibaoutit!

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Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2009 01:46 am

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Axle-San
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Oh boy. I think I am the poster child for what not to do.

I tested the washer before putting it fully in its enclosure. It cracked the plastic tub in a few spots on the bottom. Flooding ensued.

Replace plastic tub?

Buy new washer?

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