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Stuck trying to remove transmission/clutch from Kenmore 70 Series Washer

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Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2009 03:48 am

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21^st Post

applianceman18007260692
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bondo

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Posted: Mon Mar 2nd, 2009 07:47 pm

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telefunkenu47

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you can sometimes get away with plumbers goop. I have used a ptex gun from a ski shop if you know anyone with a ski shop. can you send a pic?

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Posted: Mon Mar 2nd, 2009 10:05 pm

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Axle-San
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I have ordered the slap stix product but it will take 2-3 weeks to get here in Canada. In the meantime I found a sealant/adhesive that works on plastic and is waterproof. I have just put it on. I was thinking of covering it on both sides with duct tape when done. Would that be a problem?

I've created a new thread for this as it was essentially a new repair:
http://www.applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=19394&forum_id=2&jump_to=118625#p118625

Last edited on Tue Mar 3rd, 2009 01:23 am by Axle-San

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Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2009 01:29 am

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telefunkenu47

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I didnt have much luck with slapstick. The basket rubbed against it, and it didnt stick very well. I have filled some pretty big holes with plumbers goop, not a callback that I know of. sand the surface w coarse sandpaper to rough it up. Build the goop on in layers. you will be surprised at the results. Not my first rodeo. The slapstick worked ok on porcelin tubs back in the brown shoe days I guess.Ive still got 1 rattling around the back of my van someplace. good luck !

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Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2009 04:13 am

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Axle-San
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Sounds like a plan. The product I got looks the same as Plumbers Goop. Waterproof sealant/adhesive that takes 1 - 2 days to cure. Would it be overkill to also put some duct tape on top or on the bottom? Or both.

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Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2009 01:42 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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"Would it be overkill to also put some duct tape on top or on the bottom? Or both."

dont do that. more likely to clog your water pump then it is to stop a leak

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Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2009 03:58 am

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Axle-San
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Man oh man.

It just isn't working out so good.

When I put it all back together and tested it -- the tub spins erratically during the spin cycle as if it is no longer fully anchored to the base springs/foundation. I stop it at that point or else it will crack the tub again.

It seems like all the springs are in place but I can fairly easily lift the tub from the foundation with the springs providing the only resistance. While I was repairing it two gold pins fell out that were said to be packing pins.

Any suggestions?

Much thanks.

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Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2009 01:13 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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how about a video so we can see if its normal

make sure all 4 springs and 6 pads are there

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Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2009 05:55 am

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Axle-San
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All four springs are there. I can't see any distinct pads but nothing has fallen out. There was no violent shaking before my repair.

Here are pictures in PDF format [2.5 MBs].

I'm uploading a video which will take a while. Sorry it is pretty dark.

Thanks.

Last edited on Fri Mar 6th, 2009 05:57 am by Axle-San

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Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2009 01:02 pm

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Budget Appliance Repair
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The reason you broke your tub and the reason for the bad shaking is you put the skateplate in wrong when you put it back together.

You should see holes the size of those shipping pins that fell out in the skateplate and in the base where the little plastic holders were. These holes should line up if you have the skateplate in correctly.

The triangle corners with the cutout notches go towards each base tripod leg, you have then pointing out between each tripod leg.

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Posted: Sat Mar 7th, 2009 02:37 pm

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31^st Post

Axle-San
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Thanks Master Appliantologists! It is working!

The collateral damage of my ham-fisted repair has been:

Lost some transmission oil when it was left on its side. Informed not to worry about it.

Cracked the bottom of the tub. Slap Stix product is on order. Temporarily have replaced it with water/heat resistant sealant and adhesive, covered that in a single piece of duct tape which goes from bottom to over lip so that if it gets loose won't go into pump. Also put duct tape along bottom.

As you can see in the the YouTube videos, it is working BUT

The agitator doesn't seem to be spinning perfectly centered. Is that a problem?

In spin, the tub is not spinning perfectly centered but isn't banging either. Is that a problem?

[video is uploading still]

BTW, in the process I discovered that

The bleach intake was completely clogged, explains why whites were not coming out whiter.

Cold water intake was clogged with rust. I cleaned it out but still rusty.

The lid switch had been duct-taped into a permanent "On" and was hanging, not attached to the lid. Looks like the pins that attach it to the lid are missing (See photo). Is this worth fixing?

It has been quite the experience, but the machine is working, I have learned a ton and (bonus!) I'm still married!

Attachment: lid switch.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)

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Posted: Sun Mar 8th, 2009 08:57 pm

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32^nd Post

Axle-San
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Attachment: Clincs-and-crash.jpg (Downloaded 45 times)

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Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 03:58 am

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Scottthewolf

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Sounds like you are better of replacing this washer.

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Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 05:08 am

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grey one

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Suggest get another whirlpool top load and use this old one for some spare parts and to learn to take it apart , etc..

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Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 10:04 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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Axle-San wrote:

I may not deserve my promotion to "Senior" Apprentice Appliantologist.

After a weekend of glorious wash - about seven loads -- just at the end of the wash cycle, suddenly the sound of metal clinking around and a crash. And then nothing works.

I moved the washer and found that the "C" clamp that was somewhere around the shaft (Over or under the clutch I can't recall) was lying there. I had taken this part out and put it back in the groove.

Is it the clutch that has fallen down? The machine is entirely silent no matter what the control.

Pics attached.
When you pulled that clip out without pulling the transmission the first time did you make sure to put the thrust washer, (cupped washer), back on top of that c-clip after your reinstalled it or did you completely leave the thrust washer out and maybe the basket drive was running directly on the c-clip instead of the thrust washer that should be on top of the c-clips?

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Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2009 03:04 pm

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36^th Post

Axle-San
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The show must go on. We looked into buying a new washer only to discover that our basement had been renovated AFTER the previous owner bought the washer. We can only fit down a 24" model and that just won't do for our family volume of wash.

So I'm hoping to fix this baby come hell or high water. Even buy a second one to keep in the garage for parts.

From my last post you can see that the C-clip came out. Yes, I did put the thrust washer above the C-clip. Judging by this post, I put it in the correct way, with the tabs facing down.

I straightened the C-clip, put it back in and put it all together.

But as it has been since the C-clip sprang out and I heard a thud (clutch coming down?), the machine doesn't show any signs of power. I checked for loose wires.

Thanks for your continued support.

Attachment: Return of the Apprentice.jpg (Downloaded 29 times)

Last edited on Sat Mar 14th, 2009 05:42 pm by Axle-San

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Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2009 03:59 pm

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DoctorGoz

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I would get some good plastic epoxy since ive spent this much time to repair it and go thru all the hassle since youve had it apart this far and ought to be an expert by now. As long as the tub lays back flat you should have no problem to epoxy tub. :rocketman:

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Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2009 04:02 pm

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38^th Post

DoctorGoz

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Sorry I didnt read your second page blog. i guess your already past that phase.

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Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2009 05:10 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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i bet you didnt put one of the tabs of the washer down into the middle part of the c clip so it would sit flat

Last edited on Sat Mar 14th, 2009 05:11 pm by NCSU_laundry_tech

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Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2009 06:25 pm

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40^th Post

Axle-San
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That would make sense. But now that I've putt it back together again the right way, it won't hum, run, anything. The water is on. The lid switch is not the issue. How does the C-clip coming out now make it so it doesn't appear to have power at all? Have I fried the motor?

Last edited on Sat Mar 14th, 2009 06:27 pm by Axle-San

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