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Kenmore washer 110.23012100 just hums  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 03:45 pm
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Farm wahine
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First it simply wouldn't drain or spin. Now it won't even agitate. (but how easily I do.) I replaced the motor, thinking it was simply fried in reverse or something, but during the week of waiting for the new motor, the washer's illness has degraded. Electrical help? I priced a timer and repairclinic says timer problems are often misdiagnosed...anything else it could be?

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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 04:25 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Does the Motor run ?

(the Timer Contacts control the reversing of the Motor)



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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 04:26 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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First, is the machine running at all. If you put it in spin it should at least drain if the motor is running.If it dont look at the lid switch to get it to spin.Wont spin or do nothing without the lid switch. If it runs and dont agitate or spin its the coupler between motor and transmission. If it runs in spin and dont drain you got something in the pump.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 04:34 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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If it just hums the motor is locked up and you got a sock or undies stuck in the pump caused from overloading the machine.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 05:28 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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DoctorGoz wrote: If it just hums the motor is locked up and you got a sock or undies stuck in the pump caused from overloading the machine.
OR the Timer isn't connecting both the Start and Run Windings to the Motor.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 05:48 pm
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Farm wahine
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I shorted the lid switch so that's not it. I disconnected the pump and the motor still doesn't run. The history is that just before the washer died I did have a very unbalanced load. I just put in a brand new motor but still it just hums. I disconnected the motor from the transmission and the coupler looks good but still, it just hums. How do I test the timer--is there some way I can test it to be sure that is the problem before I spend $118 getting a new one?

Thanks oh Saturday gurus, there's a special place in heaven for you!

FW

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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 11:33 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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if a new motor hums not connected to the gearcase or pump then its either the timer(most likely) or the capacitor(least likely).

digital meters have a setting to test the micro farrads of the capacitor. should be around 275



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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 11:36 pm
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Farm wahine
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capacitor sounds cheaper...any more clues for me? I'll send you a really funny tequila ad....?

FW

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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 12:25 am
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DoctorGoz

 

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I agree with NSCU. Sounds like you didnt get the capacitor plugged back in. two wires plug into capacitor. Its behind the molex plug for the motor.Otherwise your timer was bad all along. Did the other motor run at all in agitate or spin? Check capacitor.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 01:23 am
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Farm wahine
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Ok sleuths, not having any idea what a capicitor is or does, I found it behind the tub, unplugged it, carefully noting which red wire went to which little metal doohicky. Then I thought about a problem I had with another outlet in the house and decided to try plugging the machine into a different outlet using a short extension cord. I tried a couple settings and I got the same humming--with no capacitor installed. Then, remembering I had removed the capacitor, I re-installed it and tried again. The motor turned right on in the agitation phase. But only once, the next time I tried it, it returned to humming.

Can one of you guys a) tell me what the capicitor does and since it is way cheaper than a timer, recommend whether this trial might indicate the problem?

Thnx.

FW

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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 10:34 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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The round black tube thingy gives amotor a boost when it starts. Just think of it as the muscle to the start winding.It is possible it has gone bad but i yet have found one bad on a washing machine. Supposedly you can act as the start winding if you can spin the motor by hand just as you supply power. If you get it to runlet it go for a few minutes just to see if the motor smokes. The capacitor only stays in for a short second even if that long, but be very careful if you try that. Did it run for any extended period of time? It could be abad capacitor but more likely the motor. The motor cant have much drag on it from the transmission or pump.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 10:36 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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Also being that you got it to run once, I dont think your timer is bad



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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 10:38 pm
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Farm wahine
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I thought it was the motor too. So I replaced the motor. So does the evidence support purchase of a new timer--or is there some way to diagnose/fix the old timer?

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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 10:39 pm
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Farm wahine
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Hmmm. Could parts of the timer not work? Or should I just replace the capacitor?

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 Posted: Sun Feb 22nd, 2009 10:49 pm
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nickfixit
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The capacitor is cheap to replace. At one time, OEM's would require you replace the cap when a motor is replaced. It's cheap insurance to protect an expensive part.

Few people have a meter that will read the cap value properly. The one you have should be between 189 and 225 microfarads.

I test the voltage at the motor while it's in spin. This lets me know if the timer has a burned contact and is supplying the motor with a lower voltage.

Nick



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 01:49 am
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Farm wahine
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Thanks. I tested the voltage at the motor previously and had trouble because it had an automatic shut off (on the motor) But it did go up to about 200.
Does this indicate it's the capacitor?

I will install a new one tomorrow and see what happens for as you say, it is cheap insurance on a $$$ part.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 01:59 am
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Pegi
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200 volts to the motor??   na must be a miss print?



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 02:02 am
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Farm wahine
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ya, sorry. 200 mphs or gpm or whatever those are. Ums.

~Electroidiot

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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 11:46 am
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You might want to try this:  Disconnect the motor from the transmission, (leave wires attached), disconnect the two wires going to the capacitor and connect those two wires together, (thus eliminating the capacitor from the circuit), put your foot on the motor to keep it from running away if it starts and try to start in spin.

Without any load on the motor it can start without the  capacitor but it starts up slow.

I mention doing this because I had one of these last month that really through me off.  It would work fine almost always in agitate and some times worked fine in spin.  I checked everything over and it worked fine everytime for me and I left the house thinking it was timer contacts, (I found ants in the timer and it was working for me so I thought I had it fixed).  Got a call back after a few hours, customer says, "Not working again, doing the same thing, gets to spin and just hums and smells burning).

This time if actually wasn't working when I tested it and finally found one of the red wires at the capacitor, when I messed with them it start running ok.  Check capacitor, it was ok, then finally figured out that the wire was broken inside the plastic wiring cover right at the terminal that connects to the capacitor, so when I pulled the wires loose then reconnected the wire would push back together inside the plastic wire jacket and work for a while then the vibrations from running it would lose connection again and not start the next time it came to spin.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 02:14 pm
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Farm wahine
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I'll try that. I'm beginning to wonder whether it is a connection somewhere...

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