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Kenmore washer 110.23012100 just hums  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 03:43 pm
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Farm wahine
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I tried it without the capacitor, by linking the two red wires. Nada. But all back together again I'm now getting nada. So I started to take apart the timer--there seems to be oil or grease on everything under the timer cover. Is it supposed to be like this?

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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 04:07 pm
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Poobah
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Check the capacitor for the oily substance coming from it. If it overheats the seal will go bad and it will come from the top of the cap where the hookups are located. I had one a mo or so ago at a local FD. Replaced the motor and still wouldn't run grabbed the cap and it was slickery. Top of cap had came loose. To look at it though the cap looked good. New cap and the machine ran tip top.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 05:02 pm
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Farm wahine
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Capacitor LOOKS good. The oil stuff is on the timer which is above the capacitor.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 05:17 pm
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Farm wahine
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I found the problem!!! Now I just need someone to tell me how to fix it. Something burned out in the timer mechanism--I see black stuff where something sparked and caught fire at the end of one of the gold-colored metal thingies (vocab help?) I will post a photo

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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 05:50 pm
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Farm wahine
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So what is this thingy called and do I have to replace the whole @#$$%^76 Timer???

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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 05:57 pm
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Pegi
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Yes , you need to " replace the whole @#$$%^76 Timer" 
Sounds like something got spilled onto the console perhaps and got into the timer?  No other way for greasy, oily stuff to get inside that I can think of...



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 05:57 pm
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Pegi
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And those are called "Contacts"



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 06:28 pm
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Farm wahine
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Contacts. Got it.

Thanks.

M.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 07:16 pm
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Farm wahine
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Oh master sleuths, I bet it is frustrating for you guys to read through all this and not be able to just put your paws on it.

Anyway, I did what the guy in Eureka suggested and here's a summary: I now have a new motor, a new timer, a capacitor that has been checked and is good. I disconnected the motor from the tranny, holding it on a block on the floor with my foot it would hum when turned on to spin. THEN, I gave the pump-end shaft a twist and WHIRRRR, the motor kicked in. What the heck does this mean???

Thanks in advance

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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 08:09 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Farm wahine wrote: ... it would hum when turned on to spin. THEN, I gave the pump-end shaft a twist and WHIRRRR, the motor kicked in. What the heck does this mean??? ...

bad Motor, bad Timer, or a bad connection between ...

Does the Timer Plug-Connector look OK, and the Motor Conector-Plug ?



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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 08:15 pm
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Pegi
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or a bad capacitor....try a new one,..



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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 08:39 pm
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Farm wahine
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Pegi, Yipes. I forgot to mention, that is the last thing I did. Yesterday I got a new capacitor. No change in performance.

RegUS, I'm thinking along those lines too...should I start testing wires or could it be switches?

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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 10:51 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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... or a bad Speed Switch..

Did you try it in all the Speeds ?

May have do some more voltage tests at the Motor

110.23012100 Wiring Sheet

There should be:

120v Black to Yellow

and depending on Speed selected:

High =  120v White to White/Violet

Med =  120v White to White/Orange

Low =  120v White to Blue

Last edited on Sat Feb 28th, 2009 11:00 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 10:57 pm
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Farm wahine
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NO I didn't try it in all speeds. There are many speeds. I took off the speed control switch and all looks well though. SOOOO

But I looked at some other stuff and after cleaning some connections, got it to work again. But, not trusting my luck at this point, I turned it off and on again in spin several times. The last time it stopped with a jolt and when I turned it on again, it just hummed.

Now we're getting somewhere.

But where?

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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 11:20 pm
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Farm wahine
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I didn't see the rest of your msg. before the last reply. I will set the voltmeter to 250 (right?) and with the switch on and power TO the motor AT the motor I am checking these--right?

M.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 28th, 2009 11:38 pm
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Farm wahine
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Ok, here's what I got (I think the speed switch is on a high setting.) BTW, my testing gizmo is a cheapo so I tested with the power off too and got 170 consistently on the Ohm setting on all these.

120v Black to Yellow---about 70

and depending on Speed selected:

High = 120v White to White/Violet--30

Med = 120v White to White/Orange--70

Low = 120v White to Blue--100

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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2009 12:28 am
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Farm wahine
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So I've been playing with it and it seems the current condition is that sometimes it will spin and sometimes it won't. I have tried messing with the agitator thingy and I don't know if that affects it or not, but it seems that sometimes the agitator misses the cogs. If this were a piece of old farm equipment, I would guess that the brake is sticking. Is that possible?

Farm Wahine

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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2009 01:35 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Farm wahine wrote: Ok, here's what I got (I think the speed switch is on a high setting.) BTW, my testing gizmo is a cheapo so I tested with the power off too and got 170 consistently on the Ohm setting on all these.

120v Black to Yellow---about 70

and depending on Speed selected:

High = 120v White to White/Violet--30

Med = 120v White to White/Orange--70

Low = 120v White to Blue--100

those readings don't help at all... they don't seem to make sense ..

you may need a better Meter

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

they have this one, normally $ 4.99,
w/battery
but sometimes
on sale for $ 2.99
print sale page and take to store


click on picture


OR this one

click on picture



Last edited on Sun Mar 1st, 2009 01:36 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2009 03:57 pm
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Farm wahine
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I think my husband has a good one in his truck. I'll look for it.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2009 06:09 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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I think since you say it spins when you spin it manually; there is a problem with the start winding getting power to it thru the switch that plugs into the motor. This also reverses the power in the start winding to reverse spin the motor. In agitate the motor runs power down the circut to cause the motor to run in one direction.Then the power is reverse down the start winding to run the motor in reverse.The black and yellow is start winding. black coming from the centrifugul switch and yellow seems to go to timer.



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