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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore (read: whirlpool) topload washing machine m#110 2301200

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Kenmore (read: whirlpool) topload washing machine m#110 2301200  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 06:09 pm
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Farm wahine
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 Ok, on and humming, motor disconnected from the transmission but on and humming, red to yellow reads 180. After a few seconds (long enough to just do this test) the humming shut off and it smells bad.
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 06:19 pm
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denrayr
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 is your meter set to read voltage? you should only have 120 volts, test your meter by plugging the leads into an outlet



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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 06:20 pm
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denrayr
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 and the smell is from the motor overheating. it has a built in thermostat to cut power in this scenario, thats why they humming stopped. as soon as the motor cools down the thermostat will reset.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 06:21 pm
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Farm wahine
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 NO! You understand I have not a CLUE what I'm doing here...I'll switch it to V and try again.

FW
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 06:25 pm
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Farm wahine
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 Can you give me brief instructions on voltage meter reading? My meter has 4 sections, OHM, V with a bunch of dots and a line, a V with a wavy line and mA.

Each section has numbered choices. At the V with the dots on 50 and 250 I got zero needle movement...then the thermostat must of heated up as you described prompting shut down.

I'll google in the meantime...
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:13 pm
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denrayr
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 you want the v with a wavy line. if it has multiple settings you want the lowest one that is greater than 120



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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:18 pm
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Farm wahine
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 Thanks.

Not a twitch of the needle.

M.
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:21 pm
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denrayr
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 was it humming while you tested? did you test between the yellow and red then from each to ground?



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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:22 pm
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Farm wahine
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 BTW, yes I tested it in a socket...read 120
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:24 pm
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Farm wahine
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 hmmm. from each to ground...so ground is...anywhere on the metal part of the motor or what?
And yes, while on and humming--before it overheats and shuts off.
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:33 pm
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Farm wahine
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 WHOA! So now it IS showing 120. something changed when I tested the ground (green wire, right?)

I touched yellow to green, got 120
then red to green, got 120 so then, just to be sure, red to yellow again--now I get 120!

I'm sorry about this confusion, I have no explanation--the first time I tried it a bunch of different ways, wiggled the probes etc.

FW
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:46 pm
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denrayr
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 if you see 120 between red and yellow, and the motor is humming but not spinning you have a bad motor.

EDIT: to be more specific most likely the contact in the start switch (the part on the motor that the harness plugs into) is bad. this part is not replaceable seperately from the motor.

Last edited on Sun Feb 8th, 2009 07:48 pm by denrayr



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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 10:12 pm
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denrayr
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 i was thinking this over and remembered that the motor works in agitate. well agitation uses the same start winding and start switch contact as spin. are you sure you had 120v between the yellow and red wires? if you measured 120 from yellow to green that means a broken neutral at the timer. i think you should take these measurements 1 more time to be sure. something doesnt add up here.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 10:24 pm
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Farm wahine
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 Yes but let me give you a little background--which is making me think the motor IS the problem. The problem started right after I washed an extremely heavy terricloth bathrobe. I had been thinking it was more of a hardware problem. When I read that it has a reversible motor it made sense that it simply doesn't work in one of those two modes because it was somehow overloaded or something.

Anyway, I will again do the meter read on the yellow/green--I am merely putting the probes into the little box where the wires go to the contact gizmo--right?
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 10:28 pm
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Farm wahine
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 Ok, yellow to green at the motor goes to 120 in agitate but at no other setting.
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 10:34 pm
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Farm wahine
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 BTW, I took apart that thing the wires plug into by the motor, cleaned the contacts and plugged it back in. In the process I noticed that the parts on the inside of the motor frame on the end where the shaft goes into the pump are sort of loose and move something in and out of the motor. What is that?
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2009 10:39 pm
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denrayr
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 120 is normal in agitate since the timer reverses polarity. so you get 0 volts from yellow to green in spin and 120 between yellow and red? if you are 100% sure then it has to be the motor.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 04:49 am
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Farm wahine
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 Yup. What I want to do is take apart the motor now...this is so much fun!

Farm wahine
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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 09:06 am
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 Farm wahine wrote: Yup. What I want to do is take apart the motor now...this is so much fun!

Farm wahine
I would advise you not to be tearing the motor apart, THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT IF IT WORKS OK IN AGITATE!!!!!!!

It uses all the same wiring, motor windings and start switch for agitate and spin.  Only thing different is polarity of start windings to determine what direction the motor starts up and runs in.  This polarity reverse is done thru the timer, since you're really not sure what you're doing with the meter and may be getting instructions confused you very well could be in error of what you're reporting back here.

I believe you have a bad timer.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 03:20 pm
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Farm wahine
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 Ah, I didn't know that. I guess when the new motor arrives I will find out, eh? Then if you are right, we will test the return police of the parts people. In the meantime, do you know of a parts place around here (I am just south of you a few hours) where I can find a timer or better yet, give me instructions on repairing it myself?

thanks to all.

FW
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