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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire front-load washer won't drain - Model: GLTF2940ES3

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Frigidaire front-load washer won't drain - Model: GLTF2940ES3  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 01:12 am
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GoldenBear
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Frigidaire Washer Gallery series

Model: GLTF2940ES3

Purchased: 5/1/06

 

In early-December my washer stopped draining.  Clothes were really damp after the spin cycle.  The washer is spinning.  Even after I run an additional 13 minute spin cycle, the clothes are still very damp (only marginal improvement after additional spin cycle). 

 

At that time, I read the forums and my first thought was to clean the black-rubber device (easily seen in attached photo) that contains a small filter.  I removed it and only found some hair and a bobby pin, but nothing that would prevent drainage.

 

I also removed the water hose that extends from the pump, under the flashlight (easily seen in attached photo), up the back of the washer and extending to my drain and made sure there were no blockages in it.  There were none, it was clear.

 

Each time I removed the hose attached to the pump, all the water just game gushing out, luckily I had a bag in place to catch it each time.  However, after the very next wash, the water would not drain again and it quickly backed up.  It’s obvious, because the washer is noticeably heavier with all the water in it.  It’s almost as if it’s draining, just really slowly.  It almost seems like the clothes are sitting in a half inch or so of water AFTER the wash cycle is over because they’re just soaked.  Other times they’re very wet, but not sitting in water.

 

I did further research on the forums and it seemed obvious that I needed to replace the pump, so I did.  I purchased this on eBay and installed it:

Frigidaire water pump specs (as seen on the water pump)

134051200 - part number

Brand Askoll made in Italy

Mod M65

10 min On/50 min off

294015

120 Vac 60 Hz

1.2A 50W CI.F

29401500

141100

 

I touched the pump during the wash cycle and it was humming, so I’m assuming I put it in right.  I was confused on how to attach the wires in the back.  The red and black wires.  When I pulled them out of the old pump, I wasn’t careful to remember which was on top.  So I guessed when installing the new pump.  Could that make a difference?

 

So again, the first wash with the new pump was an improvement (probably more to do with me draining the water than the new pump), but quickly the water backed up and after a couple of washes I was back to square one.  Really damp clothes.

 

Appliance Gurus, help me to repair the washer and restore my reputation with the wife.  This is the first home interior problem that I’ve yet to conquer.

Attachment: Picture 025.jpg (Downloaded 115 times)

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 Posted: Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 01:41 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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That's the right Pump part number.

It don't matter which way the wires connect.

Did you check for voltage before replacing the old Pump ?

Disconnect the Pump output and run the washer to see if it pumps and how long.

 

Last edited on Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 01:43 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 02:14 am
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GoldenBear
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RegUS_PatOff,

"Did you check for voltage before replacing the old Pump ?"

- I did not.  Do you suggest I do that now?  If yes, can you give me further instructions on how to do that?

"Disconnect the Pump output and run the washer to see if it pumps and how long."

- Is the "pump output" the large grey hose attached to the pump (easily visible in the picture) with the metal hose clamp?  Won't the water run all over the floor during the wash cycle if I detach this hose?

Many thanks!

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 Posted: Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 02:25 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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With a volt-meter, check for 120v AC voltage at the 2 wires going to the Pump.

yes, the water would drain out... it would be nice if this was a cement basement floor ...



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 Posted: Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 09:19 am
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You can replace that pump with a new one every day tell the cows come home and it isn't going to fix your problem.

You need to pull the boot, (black rubber part off the pump again and see if you can't get the pump filter out and clean it out, (it will be full of junk that is plugging the water flow).

All these newer Electrolux/Frigidaire frontloaders have the new pump filter in the accordian section of the pump boot.  When you wash stringy rugs and such all the little strings come off and plug the filter, or if you don't check pockets coins will eventually fill the filter, I've also found candy wrappers in bottom then all backed up with redwood needles and leaves in one last week.


When you reinstall the filter make sure the lips is in the very bottom grove of the accordian section.  You could leave the filter out if you wanted, the old ones never had this and would let most of the lint and stringy stuff thru without a problem, just an occassional coin/hairpin/bra underwire/etc. would make it thru and jam the pump.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 09:03 pm
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GoldenBear
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Budget Appliance Repair,

Just removed the boot and pulled the filter out.  It was clean as a whistle.  I did this about a month ago as well and only found a single bobby pin and some hair, but nothing that would prevent it from draining.  Thanks for the suggestion.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 10:21 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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inlet valve sticking open?



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 10:53 pm
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Where is that part...I'll look at it, but can you give a little more detail?

thanks

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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 11:01 pm
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I bought this:  http://www.greenlee.com/product/DM-20.html

I tested the wires:

DC setting: (depending on how the probes were on the wires)

black on black, red on red = -3.4 reading

red on black, black on red = +3.4 reading

AC setting: (depending on how the probes were on the wires)

red on red and black on black = 0 reading

red on black and black on red = +5.7 reading

 

Do these results seem accurate?

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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 11:14 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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should have 120 volts AC when you turn timer to final spin.

inlet valve is at top rear of machine:)



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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 11:22 pm
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looks like there's no voltage to the Pump (bad Controller)

GLTF2940ES3 Tech Data

Test 4:  Start the washer and check for 120 VAC at the drain pump.

Zero. Replace the control board.



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Inlet valve, got it.  Well, I see what you're saying, if the valve is stuck open...the water will fall right back down... right?  Well, I stuck my finger in the hole and there is no valve per se, it's wide open.  I assume you're talking about the point at the top of the washer, behind the washer where the hose connects to the washer?  And then the hose is placed in the drain to release the water?  If we're on the same page, that's a wide open hose.  Am I missing something?

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 Posted: Sun Jan 4th, 2009 11:48 pm
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RegUS_PatOff,

I did it.  I disconnected the pump output and ran the "Touch Up" cycle which only goes for 30 minutes (shortest wash cycle).  Immediately, the water came pouring out.  It only lasted for a few minutes and it turned itself off after I think 3 or so minutes and error "E10" showed up.  The rest of the water continued to trickle out after the E10 error message showed up.

I feel like I'm back to square 1.  Do my voltage readings mean anything to you?

Thanks,

Greg

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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2009 12:01 am
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Just reading this thread. I think we can assume that the drain pump is working ok.If you squeeze the outlet hose while turning the pump on and see if the hose gets a little firmer. It is possible that your drain hose has a kink in it, did you look behind the machine without pulling it away from the wall and inspect the hose. I would guess that you have a blockace either on the suction or pressure side of the pump. Years ago I found a plastic tiddlywink in the goose neck of a whirlpool top loader. the damn thing would turn sideways and stop the flow of water intermittantly. My fellow techs had replaced at least 3 drain pumps before I found it... Lets go back to basics and rule out the hoses,inlet and output before changing any more parts. Happy hunting!



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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2009 12:06 am
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GoldenBear wrote: ... Do my voltage readings mean anything to you?

RegUS_PatOff wrote: looks like there's no voltage to the Pump (bad Controller) ...
unless your Timer isn't in Drain cycle

error E10 ?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2009 11:24 am
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GoldenBear wrote: RegUS_PatOff,

I did it.  I disconnected the pump output and ran the "Touch Up" cycle which only goes for 30 minutes (shortest wash cycle).  Immediately, the water came pouring out.  It only lasted for a few minutes and it turned itself off after I think 3 or so minutes and error "E10" showed up.  The rest of the water continued to trickle out after the E10 error message showed up.

I feel like I'm back to square 1.  Do my voltage readings mean anything to you?

Thanks,

Greg
well the water will come running out with no drain hose. that tells you water is making it to the pump. E10 is probably a long fill code

you need to see if water comes out when you are sure you have 120 Volts AC at the pump with the drain hose on



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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2009 12:46 pm
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You can measure for 120vac at the pump harness without having the harness connected to the pump. Just stick your probes into the slots on the harness, set washer to spin and let 'er rip. If you don't have 120vac there on your meter at the pump harness, then that's the problem you have to trace back. Could be a bad connection somewhere, a bad component... see the wiring diagram for the wild, wacky, wonderful world possibilities.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2009 12:54 pm
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Important note of clarification, since I am a novice:

Am I testing the wires that are attach to the pump, or the actual input (holes where the wires go) that is a part of the pump?

Laughter aside, please...I am no expert.  Thanks!

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 Posted: Mon Jan 5th, 2009 01:03 pm
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You are checking for a valid power supply to the pump. The power is supplied to the pump via those two wires. Therefore, you need to check for 120vac at wires; the pump is merely a recipient of the power it gets via those two wires.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 11th, 2009 07:20 pm
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Everyone,

I first ran a full cycle to wash the clothes.

I then set my washer to Drain/Spin.  It's a 13-minute cycle, shortest cycle I have.  I pulled the wires from the harness and tested them.  You could hear the washer thinking, and it shut itself down after a minute-ish.  But I got a reading, a solid 121.8 VAC.  Once the machine shut itself down, it slid all the way down to 5.1.

To be clear, I tested w/ red probe on black wire and black probe on red wire.

I then put the wires back in and ran the 13-minute cycle.  It turned itself with 7 minutes less.  The drum was spinning, but I had the spin cycle on high and it never really got cranking really fast on the spin like I'm used to.  So I ran the 13-minute cycle again and it again shut down with 7 minutes left!

So maybe all the water left in the washer is the normal water that is in the machine when it shuts down w/ 7 minutes left in the Drain/Spin or Final Cycle?  Seems logical?

So is my Timer dead then?  Maybe I'm finally making progress.

As a side note, I did pull the drain pump out...from the drain.  I just wanted to visually see that water was getting out the drain pump...and it is.

Any and all suggestions appreciated at this point.  What now?

Thanks,
Golden Bear

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