- Home


Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire front-load washer won't drain - Model: GLTF2940ES3

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!


 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info! Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
Frigidaire front-load washer won't drain - Model: GLTF2940ES3  Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2009 12:29 am
  PM Quote Reply
21st Post
NCSU_laundry_tech



Joined: Mon Aug 18th, 2008
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina USA
Posts: 940
Flavorite Brew: The one in my hand
Status: 
Offline
read tech sheet, go into diagnostic cycle and check for codes(count each one separate and start at beginning for second number) and check for proper operation

report back



____________________
To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.

Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM

riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Jan 19th, 2009 05:17 am
  PM Quote Reply
22nd Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
Well done NCSU_laundry_tech.  I ran the Diagnostic Tests and came up with:

E56: "High motor current" Which leads me to Test 11 which says:

Step 1: Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley.  Does the motor spin free?

No. Replace motor.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 2: Spin the tub pulley.  Does the tub spin free?

No. Check the tub bearings.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 3: Disconnect the plub from the motor and meausre the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3).  All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control board.

If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.

 

Does this look right?  Before I open up the washer again, I wanted to make sure you think I'm on the right path by starting at step 1 above.

thanks,

golden bear

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 20th, 2009 02:26 pm
  PM Quote Reply
23rd Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
Everyone,

In addition to E56, I ran the diagnostic tests again this AM and also came up with:

E47: Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.

E00: could not find this error code

Which of the 3 should I tackle first?

thanks

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Tue Jan 20th, 2009 03:08 pm
  PM Quote Reply
24th Post
certified tech group 51
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 10th, 2008
Location: Tidewater, Oregon USA
Posts: 1178
Flavorite Brew: natural ice
Status: 
Offline
I would do the door lock test first.  The unit will not spin if door is open..  Do you have the service manual # 5995413084? I think this is for your model.... Page 50 and 51 will help with the door lock and use test number 9...  To test for e56, it would be easier but I think the current draw is related to the start of spin when it cancels spin, door lock not locking correct....... this is  the route I would take...........P.S. when you bought your pump on E-bay was it a brand new one in the box or just "new" to you? I.E. previously used......

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 20th, 2009 03:22 pm
  PM Quote Reply
25th Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
Can you attach the service manual or email it to me?

The pump was new from eBay.  I bought it from a reputable vendor, although you never really know.

Interesting point on the door test, my door does need a little extra nudge to shut all the way, maybe I finally figured it out.

Please advise on the service manual question.  If the attachment is too large, please email to me at: greghaack@yahoo.com

 

Thanks!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 04:17 am
  PM Quote Reply
26th Post
certified tech group 51
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 10th, 2008
Location: Tidewater, Oregon USA
Posts: 1178
Flavorite Brew: natural ice
Status: 
Offline
I downloaded from a  protected website. If Reg.U.S. reads this, he could possibly provide you with a copy...I wish I knew how to sent attachments...I'm still working on sending pictures with complete sentences...( see spot run, run spot run! )

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 04:22 am
  PM Quote Reply
27th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
 

3 cu ft Horizontal Axis Washer (5995413084)  11 MB





____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 04:37 am
  PM Quote Reply
28th Post
certified tech group 51
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 10th, 2008
Location: Tidewater, Oregon USA
Posts: 1178
Flavorite Brew: natural ice
Status: 
Offline
I did not even get 'Spot" capitalized...........The wife wants to know when you are done with the book , can I read it?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 03:02 pm
  PM Quote Reply
29th Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
RegUS_PatOff and certified tech group and everyone else,

Okay, I got down to the door lock assembly, see the photo below.  At this point, am I testing one of the 3 wires connecting to it or am I opening this sucker up?

Page 51 of the manual posted by RegUS has a good diagram of the inside of this sucker. 

I found a good site for resistance testing 101:

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/resistance.html

Sorry for such basic questions, but I've never tested resistance.  I'm going to fix this damn thing, that's for sure.

thanks

 

Attachment: Picture 040-post.jpg (Downloaded 55 times)

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 03:33 pm
  PM Quote Reply
30th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
Disconnect the 2-Pin Plug with the Pink and the Red/Black Wires.

Set your Meter for 2000 OHMS

Check the resistance of the Door Lock Pins.

It should read about 1500 OHMS.

 



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 03:09 am
  PM Quote Reply
31st Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
RegUS,

I tested the circuit 4 times over a couple of minutes.  I started out at 1467 and it dropped down to 1445 by the 4th measurement.  Does this sound normal?

Should I put everything back together and go back to post 22 and work on E56?

Or post 23 and work on E00?  Which I could not find in the list of error codes.

What next?

thanks

Attachment: Picture.jpg (Downloaded 54 times)

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 03:38 am
  PM Quote Reply
32nd Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
14xx is OK..

check the other stuff... It may be a bad Controller



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 04:03 am
  PM Quote Reply
33rd Post
certified tech group 51
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 10th, 2008
Location: Tidewater, Oregon USA
Posts: 1178
Flavorite Brew: natural ice
Status: 
Offline
Have you ran a diagnostic test yet? What are the previouse fault codes?  If I remember the machine, you can clear all stored codes, run a load thru the machine and then access the codes to see what happened....I tried to reread the posts but  I started to lose track of what was what, (new codes showing up) As you read in test number 9, if the ohms are correct, new control board required...( No spin condition).... get your parts from Repairclinic ( return policy)

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 05:57 am
  PM Quote Reply
34th Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
tech group,

I got E56 and E47 and E00 in previous tests.  I think I need to try to troubleshoot E56 before I spend $100+ on a new board.  It may be inevitable, but we'll see.

You folks are a huge help.

thanks

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 06:09 am
  PM Quote Reply
35th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
GoldenBear wrote: ... Test 11 which says:

Step 1: Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley.  Does the motor spin free?

No. Replace motor.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 2: Spin the tub pulley.  Does the tub spin free?

No. Check the tub bearings.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 3: Disconnect the plub from the motor and meausre the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3).  All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control board.

If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.

soo... did you do Test 11 ?

what were the results ?

 



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 12:08 pm
  PM Quote Reply
36th Post
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Jun 3rd, 2006
Location: Eatontown, New Jersey USA
Posts: 1788
Flavorite Brew: Hoegaarden
Status: 
Offline
There are parts of the door lock assembly that will test good with normal meters but not perform correctly in service. Replace the door lock assembly.



____________________
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 12:31 pm
  PM Quote Reply
37th Post
Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
AccApp wrote: There are parts of the door lock assembly that will test good with normal meters but not perform correctly in service. Replace the door lock assembly.
The specific part of the latch/lock assembly that AccApp is referring to is the wax motor.  They are famous for going bad, (not electrically, but mechanically).



____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Jan 26th, 2009 03:59 am
  PM Quote Reply
38th Post
GoldenBear
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sun Dec 21st, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 20
Flavorite Brew: Pyramid Hefeweizen
Status: 
Offline
All,

I need your help.  I'm at an impasse.  I need you to read this note until the end.  Your replies will determine if I call a pro or keep going.  I really need someone to adamantly say what I should do next.  I feel like I've been hunting and just hitting walls.  My next step seems to be 1 of 3 repairs.  And if I'm wrong again (have already replaced the pump), I'm just pouring more time/money in to this.

First, I started on error E56:

_______________________________-

E56: "High motor current" Which leads me to Test 11 which says:

Step 1: Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley.  Does the motor spin free?

No. Replace motor.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 2: Spin the tub pulley.  Does the tub spin free?

No. Check the tub bearings.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 3: Disconnect the plub from the motor and meausre the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3).  All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control board.

If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.

____________________________________

I pulled off the belt and turned the wheel and it moved easily.  I call it the wheel because it looked like a steering wheel.  It moved both directions.  I then moved on to step 3 because I reviewed the manual and cannot determine what the tub pulley is.  Any advice on where/what the tub pulley is and if I should inspect it?

For step 3, I attached the picture of the motor.  Am I to pull out the orange, red, brown, white and grey wires by pinching the clip w/ my hands and pulling?  It gave me some resistance and I didn't want to screw anything up.  Do I then measure the pins on the wires going IN to the motor?

Based on the results of step 3, per the instructions above, I either:

- Replace the motor

- Replace the speed control board

Earlier, posts 36 and 37 discussed the door lock assembly.  And that's interesting because I do have to push my door from the bottom to fully latch it.  I think 2 years of lazily closing it from the top caught up to me.

So I'm looking at 1 of 3 repairs.

Based upon all the info presented, does anyone feel confident recommending the next step.  It's 1 of 3 repairs and I'm not looking to pay more $$$ for a part and realize I replace the wrong one. 

I hate to call a pro, but I may be in over my head.

What do you say guys?

thanks


 

Attachment: Picture 020.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Jan 26th, 2009 04:04 am
  PM Quote Reply
39th Post
denrayr
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Wed Mar 30th, 2005
Location: St George, Utah USA
Posts: 1046
Flavorite Brew: diet coke
Status: 
Offline
i just had one of these the other day with a high motor current code. i found a cracked solder joint on the motor control board and was able to re-solder it and get it going again.



____________________
RedRock Appliance Service
435-773-7838
http://www.redrockrepair.com
Serving St George and Southern Utah
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Wed Jan 28th, 2009 04:51 am
  PM Quote Reply
40th Post
upallnight
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Fri Nov 7th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: coke
Status: 
Offline
The tub pulley is the thing you call a steering wheel. When you rotate the tub is that wheel turning? This is done without the belt attach to the motor.

You didn't rotate the motor to see if it is binding. Rotate the motor and see if it turn freely. If it is hard to turn that could be the reason for the error code e56.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

Current time is 11:50 pm Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it! Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page    
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire front-load washer won't drain - Model: GLTF2940ES3 Top



Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
- Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.1937 seconds (39% database + 61% PHP). 32 queries executed.

Web Analytics