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Frigidaire front-load washer won't drain - Model: GLTF2940ES3

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Posted: Mon Jan 12th, 2009 12:29 am

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21^st Post

NCSU_laundry_tech

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read tech sheet, go into diagnostic cycle and check for codes(count each one separate and start at beginning for second number) and check for proper operation

report back

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Posted: Mon Jan 19th, 2009 05:17 am

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GoldenBear
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Well done NCSU_laundry_tech. I ran the Diagnostic Tests and came up with:

E56: "High motor current" Which leads me to Test 11 which says:

Step 1: Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley. Does the motor spin free?

No. Replace motor.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 2: Spin the tub pulley. Does the tub spin free?

No. Check the tub bearings.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 3: Disconnect the plub from the motor and meausre the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3). All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control board.

If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.

Does this look right? Before I open up the washer again, I wanted to make sure you think I'm on the right path by starting at step 1 above.

thanks,

golden bear

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Posted: Tue Jan 20th, 2009 02:26 pm

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GoldenBear
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Everyone,

In addition to E56, I ran the diagnostic tests again this AM and also came up with:

E47: Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.

E00: could not find this error code

Which of the 3 should I tackle first?

thanks

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Posted: Tue Jan 20th, 2009 03:08 pm

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certified tech group 51
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I would do the door lock test first. The unit will not spin if door is open.. Do you have the service manual # 5995413084? I think this is for your model.... Page 50 and 51 will help with the door lock and use test number 9... To test for e56, it would be easier but I think the current draw is related to the start of spin when it cancels spin, door lock not locking correct....... this is the route I would take...........P.S. when you bought your pump on E-bay was it a brand new one in the box or just "new" to you? I.E. previously used......

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Posted: Tue Jan 20th, 2009 03:22 pm

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GoldenBear
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Can you attach the service manual or email it to me?

The pump was new from eBay. I bought it from a reputable vendor, although you never really know.

Interesting point on the door test, my door does need a little extra nudge to shut all the way, maybe I finally figured it out.

Please advise on the service manual question. If the attachment is too large, please email to me at: greghaack@yahoo.com

Thanks!

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Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 04:17 am

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certified tech group 51
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I downloaded from a protected website. If Reg.U.S. reads this, he could possibly provide you with a copy...I wish I knew how to sent attachments...I'm still working on sending pictures with complete sentences...( see spot run, run spot run! )

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Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 04:22 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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3 cu ft Horizontal Axis Washer (5995413084) 11 MB

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Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 04:37 am

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certified tech group 51
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I did not even get 'Spot" capitalized...........The wife wants to know when you are done with the book , can I read it?

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Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 03:02 pm

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GoldenBear
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RegUS_PatOff and certified tech group and everyone else,

Okay, I got down to the door lock assembly, see the photo below. At this point, am I testing one of the 3 wires connecting to it or am I opening this sucker up?

Page 51 of the manual posted by RegUS has a good diagram of the inside of this sucker.

I found a good site for resistance testing 101:

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/resistance.html

Sorry for such basic questions, but I've never tested resistance. I'm going to fix this damn thing, that's for sure.

thanks

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Posted: Wed Jan 21st, 2009 03:33 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Disconnect the 2-Pin Plug with the Pink and the Red/Black Wires.

Set your Meter for 2000 OHMS

Check the resistance of the Door Lock Pins.

It should read about 1500 OHMS.

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 03:09 am

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GoldenBear
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RegUS,

I tested the circuit 4 times over a couple of minutes. I started out at 1467 and it dropped down to 1445 by the 4th measurement. Does this sound normal?

Should I put everything back together and go back to post 22 and work on E56?

Or post 23 and work on E00? Which I could not find in the list of error codes.

What next?

thanks

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 03:38 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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14xx is OK..

check the other stuff... It may be a bad Controller

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 04:03 am

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33^rd Post

certified tech group 51
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Have you ran a diagnostic test yet? What are the previouse fault codes? If I remember the machine, you can clear all stored codes, run a load thru the machine and then access the codes to see what happened....I tried to reread the posts but I started to lose track of what was what, (new codes showing up) As you read in test number 9, if the ohms are correct, new control board required...( No spin condition).... get your parts from Repairclinic ( return policy)

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 05:57 am

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GoldenBear
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tech group,

I got E56 and E47 and E00 in previous tests. I think I need to try to troubleshoot E56 before I spend $100+ on a new board. It may be inevitable, but we'll see.

You folks are a huge help.

thanks

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 06:09 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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GoldenBear wrote: ... Test 11 which says:

Step 1: Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley. Does the motor spin free?

No. Replace motor.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 2: Spin the tub pulley. Does the tub spin free?

No. Check the tub bearings.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 3: Disconnect the plub from the motor and meausre the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3). All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control board.

If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.
soo... did you do Test 11 ?

what were the results ?

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 12:08 pm

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AccApp
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There are parts of the door lock assembly that will test good with normal meters but not perform correctly in service. Replace the door lock assembly.

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Posted: Thu Jan 22nd, 2009 12:31 pm

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Budget Appliance Repair
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AccApp wrote: There are parts of the door lock assembly that will test good with normal meters but not perform correctly in service. Replace the door lock assembly.
The specific part of the latch/lock assembly that AccApp is referring to is the wax motor. They are famous for going bad, (not electrically, but mechanically).

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Posted: Mon Jan 26th, 2009 03:59 am

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38^th Post

GoldenBear
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All,

I need your help. I'm at an impasse. I need you to read this note until the end. Your replies will determine if I call a pro or keep going. I really need someone to adamantly say what I should do next. I feel like I've been hunting and just hitting walls. My next step seems to be 1 of 3 repairs. And if I'm wrong again (have already replaced the pump), I'm just pouring more time/money in to this.

First, I started on error E56:

_______________________________-

E56: "High motor current" Which leads me to Test 11 which says:

Step 1: Remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley. Does the motor spin free?

No. Replace motor.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 2: Spin the tub pulley. Does the tub spin free?

No. Check the tub bearings.

Yes. Go to step 3.

Step 3: Disconnect the plub from the motor and meausre the resistance of the windings (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3). All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control board.

If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.

____________________________________

I pulled off the belt and turned the wheel and it moved easily. I call it the wheel because it looked like a steering wheel. It moved both directions. I then moved on to step 3 because I reviewed the manual and cannot determine what the tub pulley is. Any advice on where/what the tub pulley is and if I should inspect it?

For step 3, I attached the picture of the motor. Am I to pull out the orange, red, brown, white and grey wires by pinching the clip w/ my hands and pulling? It gave me some resistance and I didn't want to screw anything up. Do I then measure the pins on the wires going IN to the motor?

Based on the results of step 3, per the instructions above, I either:

- Replace the motor

- Replace the speed control board

Earlier, posts 36 and 37 discussed the door lock assembly. And that's interesting because I do have to push my door from the bottom to fully latch it. I think 2 years of lazily closing it from the top caught up to me.

So I'm looking at 1 of 3 repairs.

Based upon all the info presented, does anyone feel confident recommending the next step. It's 1 of 3 repairs and I'm not looking to pay more $$$ for a part and realize I replace the wrong one.

I hate to call a pro, but I may be in over my head.

What do you say guys?

thanks

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Posted: Mon Jan 26th, 2009 04:04 am

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denrayr
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i just had one of these the other day with a high motor current code. i found a cracked solder joint on the motor control board and was able to re-solder it and get it going again.

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Posted: Wed Jan 28th, 2009 04:51 am

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upallnight
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The tub pulley is the thing you call a steering wheel. When you rotate the tub is that wheel turning? This is done without the belt attach to the motor.

You didn't rotate the motor to see if it is binding. Rotate the motor and see if it turn freely. If it is hard to turn that could be the reason for the error code e56.

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