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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > noise at end of Whirpool (front loader) spin cycle; model LSQ9549PW6;Ser# CT1921665

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noise at end of Whirpool (front loader) spin cycle; model LSQ9549PW6;Ser# CT1921665  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 03:30 am
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Hez
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Whirlpool Clothes Washer        Model#LSR9549PW6     Ser# CT1921665  Type: 111

on spin cycle, clattering (or clumping) noise starts when driving force for spinning tub is removed or cuts-out & tub is still spinning;

at rest, I can spin tub by hand and get noise like tub dropping off small high-spot (clump or thump); get about 3 "drop sounds" in 1-1/4 turns of tub;

noise just started out of the blue yesterday; was running fine till then AND all else in washing process seems fine now.

Washer & dryer installed new July 06; I did minor repair with your help in October 08 (changed 3 teflon rub/wear pads; still not sure that was the full problem).

all else ok

Please help because wife is getting frantic!

Thanks in advance.........Hez

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 07:27 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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It's NOT a Front Loader!!!!!!

You most likely have a stripped out drive block.



http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2858



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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 04:50 pm
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Hez
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Hi Willie,

Thanks for the reply over the holidays.  And, you are very correct in that I mistakenly stated my machine was a front-loader.  I must have had a brain fart because I'm in and around the machine a lot now.  The dryer is a front loader and that is a very poor excuse!!!

I've ventured further into the bowels of the machine more since I posted my urgent plea for help.  This was based on my reading of other postings related to spin cycle problems for a Whirlpool "top loader".  I've only disassembled as far as the agitator on the inside of the machine.  I'll remove the spanner nut and go deeper.  Underneath, I've removed the water pump and electric motor only.  I haven't tampered with the gearcase assembly.  However, I rubbed my finger around the clutch/gearcase area and got some residue (little grease and fine-powdery mix of metal shavings).  It kind of reminded me of a glittery make-up foundation or base ladies us for eye-shadow (I'm no expert in that area).

Is it likely that the problem is in this assembly area?  All the "spin cycle" problems I've read seem to be "similar" to my problem, but not the SAME problem.

Thanks again...............Hez

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 05:10 pm
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If you have the agitator out, you should be able to see the two tabs of the spin tube and the drive block notches..... lift up a bit on the spin basket and rotate.... ....does the spin basket rotate?      If the tabs on the spin tube are rounded, just square them up with a file, If not, just a new drive block and your good to go......... .......just tighten the spanner nut tight with correct wrench,    also available  from repair clinic.com   ( TB123a)

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 06:54 pm
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Hez
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Hi again,

I received the message that my attached photo exceeded the size limit.
I've cropped it and now I'm good.

Here it is.  I'm hoping my original message went thru (even without the photo), so you have the message to refer to.  I SEE THE ORIGINAL MESSAGE DID NOT GO THRU!

More explanation:
I don't see the drive tabs that was referred to for spinning the inner tub.  I used a mirror to get more detail in the photo.  Is my unit similar to those you all are accustom to?  I'm trying NOT to tell myself that I have s different model Whirlpool and that part of the information is different.

Again, I'm confused about the tabs and slots in the drive unit that is talked about.

What am I missing? 

All cries for help are still applicable..............!


Hez trying to get it right on Christmas day.....!

Attachment: 100_2783 Whirlpool2 Washer spindle Cropped 25Dec08.jpg (Downloaded 44 times)

Last edited on Thu Dec 25th, 2008 06:59 pm by Hez

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 07:01 pm
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Last edited on Thu Dec 25th, 2008 07:05 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 07:09 pm
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Hez
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Thanks RegUs....

So, what am I looking for - as viewed from the photo I sent to you guys?

I can remove the plastic piece, the clip to the shaft and the spanner nut (at least I did in Oct 08 when I first had other problems).  Will I see the Drive unit with some sort of damage?

I'm just looking for guidance to the next steps I should take.

And, thanks for spending part of your Christmas Day with me online!!

Merry Christmas to you all and your respective families.

Now, I'm standing by on this end for all helpful info, data, humor....


Ciao for now.............Hez

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 07:24 pm
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I believe so .. (I'm not the mechanical master)



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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 07:35 pm
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You removed the drive block once before?  Yes, remove the plastic piece and the clip ( the nut can stay) and using the picture provided by Reg.U.S., see the two tabs on the spin tube?  The drive block has two mating slots that drops down onto the tube..... are you using the correct wrench to tighten the nut?  You could have rounded off the corners of the spin tube....

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 08:19 pm
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Hez
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RegUS,

I've make great progress thanks to you!!!!

I now have the gearcase with shaft out (3 half-inch bolts) and sitting on the floor.  I, also, see the tabs!  The problem was that the underside of the drive unit has been bored/rubbed out and the tabs were what was making the noise - as they skipped around to the next slot.

Now for replacing parts - what lubricant do you use / recommend?

Thanks a whole bunch more................Hez

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 10:07 pm
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Hez
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Hi,

I think you may have helped me discover my previous error!

Yes, I have had it off - in October - while troubleshooting another problem.  If I had confusion with the tabs during this issue, I probably did not know to take precautions the last time.

Do the tabs align with the slots in the drive unit at all times?  I may have torqued down on the spanner nut with the tabs out of position.

Think that may have happened?

Thanks guys..............Hez

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 10:56 pm
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"Do the tabs align with the slots in the drive unit at all times?  I may have torqued down on the spanner nut with the tabs out of position.

Think that may have happened?"

yes and yes

better buy a new drive block this time



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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 11:28 pm
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Hez
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Thank you for the confirmation - Yes and Yes!

With tomorrow being a day after Christmas, my mission will be to locate the this part because I'll be leaving the country on Tuesday.

The wife is watching carefully.  If all isn't well soon, I'll own a new washer soon.

All you guys are great because you make me look better than usual (good is a goal to have)!!!!

Merry Christmas .....  Here's hoping I'll have the reassembly in good order. 

Otherwise, I'll be back in touch.  I'll check back anyway to celebrate with you all.......

Hez

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 Posted: Fri Dec 26th, 2008 01:08 pm
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After assy. are you using the correct wrench to torque the nut? See Appliance Parts (green box with blue letters ) type in TB123A... Use that wrench and a 2 pound beater will torque it correct..

Last edited on Fri Dec 26th, 2008 03:13 pm by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Fri Dec 26th, 2008 07:26 pm
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Hez
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Hi CTG,

I have a reassembly difficulty.
I' removed the gearcase and am not fetching up against something that prevents it from shouldering up against the three (3) mounting posts.

I have the machine on its back and it seems as if the brake shoe has shifted down part way.  In fact, one shoe seems lower than the other.  Unless they are offset.

Any tips about what I'm up against and how to finally get the gearcase home so I can bolt it up?

Thanks in advance (again)..............Hez

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 Posted: Fri Dec 26th, 2008 07:30 pm
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Happens to me every time.  You're about a quarter inch from home right??

Just keep trying.  Twist back and forth and keep pushing, it will go.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 26th, 2008 07:45 pm
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Hez
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Hi Robbyrig,

Your suggestion made the difference.  I wiggled, tapped and saw I was gaining ground.  Then, I started tapping/banging with a block of wood.  More progress!

After I was able to get all 3 screws started, I finished up by tightening them.  As I'm repairing a problem I created two mos ago, I'm really trying to do no harm as I reassemble this machine.

Thanks a bunch................Hez at home with parts everywhere (well, not in the backyard - yet!)

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 Posted: Sat Dec 27th, 2008 08:34 am
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Pounding and banging or using the screws to pull transmission into place IS NOT THE WAY TO DO IT!!!!!!!!

If the transmission won't slide up nice and smooth, right into place then you either have the brake release cam right on top of the clutch spring, or the most likely problem is that you let the basket drive/brake assembly drop down after removing the transmission.

Anytime you remove the transmission you must make sure the brakes are seated all the way up into the brake drum.  You just need to turn the brake release cam and at the same time push the basket drive up as far as it will go then let the brake release cam go.  The basket and basket drive/brake assembly will stay up in place if you don't mess with the brake release cam while the transmission is out.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 27th, 2008 01:02 pm
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.To replace the drive block you do not need to remove the transmission. ( not unless I missed some thing in one of your posts about needing the trans removed)..........Remove agitator.......lift top......remove splash ring..... remove spanner nut........ wiggle spin basket, lift....... remove drive block ( spinbasket or spin tube)....... install new block...ALIGN tabs.........reassemble..........30 min job.......It  almost takes longer to get the check and do the paper work than the repair....  And BUDGET is correct, in the picture of the spin tube ( provided by Reg U.S.)  item 13 is what you turn to release the brake and push back into it's correct location.   DO not beat on this item ( too late?) you could damage a brake shoe or  the drum ( item with piece of foam )  Keep us posted ........

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 Posted: Sun Dec 28th, 2008 01:24 am
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Hez
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you guys have me very worried now.

"too late" is the case.  I forced the gearcase into position and saw that the brake shoe was partially "showing" but did know to figure out how to release it and reposition it.
After reassembling it, we've operated the machine four times with aparent good results.
Have I done damage that needs to be corrected right away?
I'm on a short time line because I'll be leaving the country on 30 Dec 08.  I'm a merchant seaman and will be catching a ship next week.  The wife thinks all is good.  But, if something crops up when I'm away, she'll open the check book and get it fixed or replaced.

I'm waiting to back to hear from you guys!!!

Hez with anxious thoughts

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