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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > kenmore elite catalyst top loader drum hard to spin

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kenmore elite catalyst top loader drum hard to spin  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 06:36 pm
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komputodo
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hello,

My kenmore elite catalyst top loader was working fine when suddenly i noticed a burning smell and immediately shut it off........motor was hot.  I took the motor out and it spun freely and seems ok...the water pump seems ok too...the coupler is also ok...i noticed the trans coupler shaft is hard to turn and also the drum is hard to turn. As if the brake is engaged. It seems that the motor would really have to force itself to spin the transmission coupler shaft and thats why it overheated. What shoud I check next?

Thanks

Robert

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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 06:57 pm
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Pegi
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Could be a bad tranny or something between the tub and basket....



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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 07:02 pm
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komputodo
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I pulled the agitator. no problem there.....should I pull the basket next? How would something get between the basket and the tub?  Should the basket (is that the drum?) turn freely when washer is off? I know thats a lot of questions,  so thanks in advance

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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 07:06 pm
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Pegi
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the basket will not turn by hand when it is off, however with the motor and pump off of the transmission the transmission shaft should turn freely both ways....



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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 07:36 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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"i noticed the trans coupler shaft is hard to turn"

thats not good. the gearcase could be needing replacement



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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 07:52 pm
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komputodo
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the trans coupler shaft does turn freely counterclockwise,,,,,,,and also turns freely clockwise until it gets to the point where is wants to spin the basket, which is very hard to spin when off . So thats why the shaft is hard to turn, because its trying to spin the basket. I guess the question is: What needs to happen to get the basket to spin freely? You said the basket shouldn't spin freely when off. Does that mean a brake is applied? If so, what has to happen to disengage the brake?

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 Posted: Wed Dec 10th, 2008 08:07 pm
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NCSU_laundry_tech



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the clutch releases the the brake and pushes on the basket drive.

bypass the lid switch, turn it to spin and see if you can spin the basket clockwise with your hand



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 Posted: Thu Dec 11th, 2008 02:02 am
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komputodo
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well the "hard to turn basket" wasn't the problem.....the motor wont start, it just hums. I pulled the motor and reconnected it off to the side and put the washer in diagnostic mode. The motor will start if I help it by spinning the shaft but once its running, it clicks off and on continuosly. I then tested the motor windings and wiring as per the service manual included with the washer, and all were within specs. The capacitor also sparks when shorted across its 2 terminals. The manual says my next step is to replace the motor start module. I pulled that and inspected it. No burn marks... Is that a part that fails frequently?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 11th, 2008 08:00 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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If if will still agitate ok, then that would eliminate the motor being the problem.

It's going to be the timer, speed selector switch(if your's has one), or wiring at the connector on the motor.

Your only getting power to one set of windings, (probably start winds), which by them self isn't enough to get the motor to kick over.  When you give it the boost, it starts up but as soon as it reaches operating speed the centrifical swith on the motor opens, taking the start winds out of the circuit and motor slows down.  It keeps doing this without a load until the motor thermal protector trips or you turn it off.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 11th, 2008 06:13 pm
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komputodo
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thanks buddy,

I checked the motor out of the circuit with jumper wires and it started up and ran just fine. I also checked the start module,  also OK. So now I went to the source, the circuit board on the control panel.. I pulled the board and inspected it on the back side and found an cracked overheated solder joint at one of the relays. I scraped off the varnish and resoldered it and BINGO...everything works again.  Cost of repair. 10 cents! Next time it fails, I'll know where to look first.

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