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sailfishgolfer
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 00:37 |
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Greetings Samurai!
Maytag Neptune Model MAH3000AWW (yes, I have learned its a lemon!)
Serial # 32110403UW
Problem: Does not go into fast spin cycle at end of wash. Initial diagnosis: Light for door lock does not light, does not go into final spin cycle. Classic symptoms of control board & wax motor issue, right?
This IS NOT the dreaded R11 - control board / Wax Motor Problem.
How do I know this: Its been replaced, but it gets better. Maytag, bless there lemon hearts, sent me a new control board and wax motor part when I learned of the class action law suit that I was never notified of. Here's where it gets even funnier. The parts arrived 2 days later (again bless their lemon hearts). I call local Maytag repairmen, and they are Johnny on the spot. Repairman was surprised that Maytag (bless the lemon hearts) even sent me the motherboard and wax motor part. But wait, there's more. Repairman then removes the cover of the control panel. I am standing there, and I notice the lock light appears now to be lit. Upon looking at it we determine that the light streaming in from the nearby window is refracting on the "bulb" thus appearing as it is lit. The repairman then replaces the control board, noting that the board appears fine -- no burnt resistors. He also replaces the wax motor. He then is about ready to start the machine and I mentioned that I didn't think the lock light was plugged in when he had the cover panel off. He stated that he never disconnected the lock light plug. I said I could have sworn it was not connected to anything. He then pulled the cover back off and to both of our amazement the lock light was indeed not connected, and it was broken at the neck of the "bulb". The light we saw on the conttrol was the light refracting oin the broken end of the bulb! The repairman then ran the washer and the lock repair light (at the plug) was in fact working the whole time. Bottom line, the lock light was broken off all along, and that is why it never was lighting during the wash cycle (on the face of the control panel). Thus the problem is not the unlit locked light / wax motor problem!
Thus after all the problems with contacting Maytag and getting them to send the parts (bless their lemon hearts) that was not the problem with the unit.
The repairman was more than happy to trouble shoot the unit, but that may take as long as an hour, and suggested that my money was better spent on buying a new unit as these are junk (his words not mine, bless their lemon hearts).
However, I am unemployed and the funds are not that easy to come by right now. Is there anything that I can do to trouble shoot the unit? He mentioned something about a control board at the bottom of the unit....but said since the unit was running that the fuse was not blown. Please note that this unit has been used sparelingly. I am single and thus the most this unit has been used is perhaps two loads a week, maximum The unit is 7 years old, again with significant light use.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 00:56 |
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MAH3000AWW Service Manual
start on PDF page 43 (then to PDF page 40...)
The newer wax motors have a black plunger.
also, sometimes the Spring behind the Wax Motor needs a little help (bend it)
Technical Bulletin TDL-0052A-B (for future reference)
Last edited on Sun Oct 12th, 2008 01:06 by RegUS_PatOff
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sailfishgolfer
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 13:47 |
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Thank you for the response:
I can verify that the wax motor sent by Maytag did have the BLACK plunger, at that it was installed by the repairman. 
I will try to access the door lock mechanism and bend the spring. I am referring to page 5-3 ( pg 55 of pdf), Fig., 5-7; I am assuming you are referring to the spring between the sliding gear and the rotating gear in that picture?
Do I want the spring more open or pinched tighter closed? (I am assuming open wider)
Thanks you for the service manual I did the trouble shooting flowchart and pg. 41 (PDF) I am assuming that the this spring is the "continuty issue" addressed in the top box?
Will report back in about an hour.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 15:20 |
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... the Spring behind the Wax Motor ... wider.. (if needed)
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sailfishgolfer
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 17:42 |
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OK I'm back!
Unfortunately nothing changed. The spring was fully expanded to "push" the wax motor to its "locked in position" ie pushed from left to right. I removed it and di expand it to make sure. Also, I was also able to manipulate the emergency access chord and it moves the sliding gear just fine (as described in the manual). There appears to be no hindrence by that axle spring.
How would I test for "continuity across the door lock/spin enable switch when the wax motor is extended? ( the the first step in the trouble shooting flow chart)
The next step states: if continuity is present above, Is there continuity in the wiring between the door lock/spin enable switch and the Machine control Board (Board terminal P3 (7) / YL36).
Which control board is this referring to? The one on the upper console, or the board at the bottom right in the cabinet?
I have a "pocket" type circuit tester, but am not sure exactly what to do in testing this.
Also, I ran the unit with the front panel off. I watched the rotation of the drum and it was going through the alternating right rotation then left rotation. Its as if it does not know to go into fast spin (duh). I am assuming that the final fast spin cycle is one spin in a clockwise direction (looking at the unit from the front)?
Hope this helps, andthanks again for your assistance.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 18:06 |
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As mentioned in the Service Manual, there's the Machine Control Board and the Motor Control Board.
It also mentions 24v DC at the Machine Control Board terminal P3 (7) / YL36.
"pocket" type circuit tester ?
a pocket Volt-Ohm meter ?
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sailfishgolfer
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 18:29 |
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OK, please bear with me -- I am a quick learner! Heres is my tester:
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/meters/1496.html
I am attempting to "practice" on the old wax motor: pg 22 of PDF
Check the wax motor for proper resistance. This check should be made with the electricalsupply disconnected from the washer. Remove the wire harness from the wax motor terminals and place the ohm meter probes on the terminals of the wax motor. The wax motor should have a resistance of approximately 1900 ohms at room temperature.
I am not exactly sure which setting of the OHMs I shoud use...and I doubt if it will give me a correct 1900 ohms as old as it is... Last edited on Sun Oct 12th, 2008 19:59 by sailfishgolfer
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sailfishgolfer
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 19:58 |
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After a little practice with the old door wax motor, I would stick the pointed of the probe into the holes on the terminals, I was able to get a reading of 72. (setting selection at 2000k). If I am doing this correctly then it is clearly way under the 1900ohms.
To test the p3/7 (YL 36): I see on page 25(pdf) that I turn dial to wash cycle and pess the start/off button. OK - now for the stupid question:
Where do I put the leads to? OK im not that stupid..I know one of the leads goes on one side of the P3/7 resistor..does the other lead simply go to the opposite side of the resistor?
For my meter I believe I should start with to DCV set at 200?
Also the 10 amp fuse on the motor control board appears to be OK....
I appreciate you patience with my ignorance.
Last edited on Sun Oct 12th, 2008 20:10 by sailfishgolfer
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 20:56 |
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All resistance tests should be with the device (Wax Motor) disconnected.
Voltages tested with devices connected.
Voltage at P3(7) connector to chassis (ground)
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sailfishgolfer
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 22:24 |
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Will attempt to test P3(7) tommorrow afternoon. I did test the old wax motor, on my bench, I also tested the new wax motor (power off) and could not achieve a reading 1900 or any number near that. Not sure if I have the correct setting on meter.
Will keep trying however - additional I now have the offical Matag accessory unit in place:
http://supplyhero.com/WaveBrake-Sideward-Pressure-Mop-Wringer.86.1207.3.htm
Thanks again
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