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kenmore 110.26422503 washer

Moderated by: Trying to help, Pegi, hvacdrd, AccApp

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vsa2
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:28

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I have a Kenmore top loading washer, ser # 110.26422503 that is aprox 2 years old. Yesterday it filled with water then stopped. It wont agitate, spin, or continue in any way. With it being only a couple of years old and not giving any I hit the net. I have got the top and front cover off and now need to get help with the diagnostics. Where to start and what to check. All the connections are tight and it doesen't appear to be any chewed wires.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Signed,
Drowning in the dirty towels

RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:39

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I can't find the wiring diagram for that (Whirlpool) model, yet, but check the Lid Switch.

click on picture

Last edited on Wed Oct 8th, 2008 20:44 by RegUS_PatOff

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vsa2
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 21:07

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I just checked the switch and it was good. I have a wiring diagram that was inside the top. if that helps.

Pegi
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 21:13

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Suspect the fill level switch if the lid switch is good and had not come loose from the cabinet slot, known problems with the lid switch getting loose and not activating...if the washer would not agitate before with the lid open the fill level switch might not be switching power to the timer when the proper water level has been reached..

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Pegi
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 21:21

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Here is the service pointer addressing this problem, your washer is made by Whirlpool for Sears...

vsa2
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 23:35

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I wasn't sure where the level switch was but if it is knob on the front panel that is listed water level and has small, medium, and large loads on it this it what i was able to find. I pulled (from the underside) the rubber hose coming from the bottom of the washer tub. I did have the lid switch tripped while doing this. As soon as the tube was pulled water started to pour in again. I had to turn the water off at the wall to get it to stop. It is to the very top completely covering the agitator and all. I did notice that when I pulled the rubber hose and the water poured, that the solenoids at the water inlet both hot and cold (at the back of the machine) started buzzing. I did not pull the plug ,3 wires, at (what i thought was) the pressure switch when doing this.
If this is the pressure switch, is there a way test it or a way to by pass it to get the pump running and drain the water out.

Thanks

Pegi
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Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 23:42

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Well yea, pull the hose loose and the pressure switch thinks the washer is empty and will fill till Christmas....put the hose back on, close the lid or jump the lid switch and turn the timer to drain/spin and get the water out.....then put the water level at say...low level and put the washer on a wash cycle so it will fill and stop again, you are now going to have to use your volt stick/meter to see where you have lost the voltage to the motor, your wiring diagram will help with this. Test from the pressure switch to the timer first...if have voltage see if you have voltage out of the timer to the lid switch...keep going down the wiring diagram...

NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 00:25

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unplug the wires going to the pressure switch and use a jumper wire inserted into the right spot to see if the motor comes on

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vsa2
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 01:18

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I did put the hose back on, jump the lid switch and turn the timer to drain/spin but the water pump did not come on. I will check the wiring tomorrow as I have to get ready for work tonight.

Thanks

Pegi
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 01:21

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Ok, need to see where you have lost the voltage to the motor, start at the pressure switch and work forward toward the harness where it plugs onto the motor switch.

RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 01:22

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Is there a part number on the Wiring Diagram you have ?

vsa2
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 12:53

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The part # on the diagram is 8572978.

Thanks

Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 12:54 by vsa2

RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 13:24

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This one ?

8572978 Wiring Diagram

Set to Agitate or Spin:

Voltage across Timer Motor =120v =Lid Switch & Washer Motor Therm.Over-Load & (probably) Water Level Switch OK

Voltage at the Timer Motor Tan Wire to chassis (ground) = 120v = (probably) Water Level Switch is OK.

Voltage at Timer Motor White/Black to chassis (ground) = 120v = Lid Switch or Washer Motor Therm.Over-Load open.

Set to Agitate or Spin:

Washer Motor Grey Wire to chassis (ground) 120v = Lid Switch open.

Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 13:44 by RegUS_PatOff

K,man
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Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 03:38

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look carefully at the dial you will see a u this is usually in the normal cyc.. little secret SHHHHHHHHH dont tell.!!!. point the timer at this u pull the knob.. this is a dry agitation mark and if all is ok will agitate with no water. you may have to try a couple of times it hard to hit just right....it might be a small black mark on whirlpool instead of a u ....

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Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 03:45

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K,man wrote:
look carefully at the dial you will see a u this is usually in the normal cyc.. little secret SHHHHHHHHH dont tell.!!!.

Good trick, Kman. I wuddn't aware of that one m'damnself! :dude:

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vsa2
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Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 16:38

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Found it, Fixed It

While I was checking the Grey wiring at the washer motor I found the white wire on the motor itself (the one on the far right in the picture) under the plug end was broken at the spade connector. I replaced the connector end and now it works perfectly. YOU ROCK DUDE. You guys are great. I want to thank all who advised and contributed the the repair effort. Now I can get back tor working on my truck....

Thanks Again.

Attachment: 00094067.jpg (Downloaded 17 times)

K,man
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Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 04:31

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honorable master..glad to share , thats very helpfull when checking for the neutral drain. just find the mark let it agitate dry the go to spin if it drains with no spin it okeydokey.although no always a sure fire test...

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