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Maytag LAT2500AAE won't agitate/spin
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jerrye
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 Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 06:55

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Will someone please step in and help with the issue at http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=17385&forum_id=2 ?

I think we're dangerously close to getting a diagnosis. I've been through Hurricane Gustav, with 5-figure home damage, and I just got laid off of work.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jerry

denrayr
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 Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 07:54

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im not trying to be rude but your info is sketchy. i asked way back in august if the motor is humming. You just recently replied that its humming/running. what does this mean? is it running but the belt is slipping? we need better details. if you have intermittent belt slipping check the motor glides and the condition of the belt. if your symptom is that the motor wont run at all but hums and gets hot intermittently, i would suspect timer contacts.

My advice: first check the condition of the motor glides and the belt. does the motor slide smoothly on the track? do the springs pull it back firmly? is the belt glazed? Another thought is if the main seal has a very slow leak the belt might be getting wet during the spin cycle and start slipping.

jerrye
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 Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 08:37

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I hate to be rude and risk having no help, but perhaps someone else can step in? I'm very unmechanically inclined, but I'm pretty good at undertanding and answering questions, when people are precise with their terminology and their use of language otherwise.

So, I was asked "Is the Motor running when it fails to Spin ? OR is the Motor just humming when it fails to Spin ?" The terms, running and humming, --  I tried give these terms their everday meaning.  

I answered, " ... low hum, ..."  Looking at my response, I don't see where I even used the word running. I'm not sure what's sketchy about my use of hum, as opposed to Master's use of the word.

Perhaps someone can educate me:  If I hear humming, does that necessarily mean that the motor is running?  Or could the hum be produced by something else?

Belt slipping? Not that I noticed. If this was asked before before, I missed it.

Again, I hate to discourage help, but if somone can read through and let me know if I missed a step or missed answering a troubleshooting question, please advise, and I'll try to do any remaining tests.

Thanks,

Jerry

 

 

RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 12:19

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denrayr wrote: ... i asked way back in august if the motor is humming. You just recently replied that its humming/running. what does this mean? is it running but the belt is slipping? we need better details...


jerrye wrote:
... The terms, running and humming, --  I tried give these terms their everday meaning.  

I answered, " ... low hum, ..."  Looking at my response, I don't see where I even used the word running...

 

jerrye wrote: from http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=17385&forum_id=2 ?
Motor was running/humming.

Motor white wire, during the fill process, had no voltage. Do I need to check it after the fill?

 

Thanks.



Last edited on Wed Oct 8th, 2008 12:23 by RegUS_PatOff



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denrayr
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 Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 22:02

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ok let me clarify. when i say does the motor hum i mean does it make a humming noise but not rotate, this would indicate lack of power to the run windings. of course the motor will hum while its running. Why dont we start over? lets pick one specific spot in the cycle where it isnt working and work from there. Can you tell us exactly what the machine is and is not doing and what part of the cycle it is in.

REG: i see you posted the diagram in the other thread. do you have access to the cycle chart as well? i would like to trace a schematic for Jerrye

RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 01:31

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sorry, no cycle chart, that's all I could find, and that was from partselect.com

 

Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 01:32 by RegUS_PatOff



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jerrye
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 17:20

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Thanks, guys,

I have somthing on my schematic that I think is a cycle chart -- I'll scan and update when able today (no scanner at home).

when i say does the motor hum i mean does it make a humming noise but not rotate, this would indicate lack of power to the run windings. of course the motor will hum while its running.

okay, it makes a humming noise but does not rotate.  And am I correct to assume if there is a hum coming from the machine, the source of the hum must be the motor? (Forgive me, I'm not an electronics guru, and my dad, who can repair but not diagnose, doesn't do forums.)

And the buzz/no-spin scenario is at the point in the cycle when one would expect spinning. See below.
... what the machine is and is not doing and what part of the cycle it is in.


Okay, these are the notes I took way back:



Filled



Agitated 1 min and stopped.

I could hear the buzz (presumably of the motor for 14 minutes, but there was no spin


Agitated  during the next cycle for 30 seconds and stopped


I don't recall for sure whether there was a buzz during this cycle.

Next cycle - Started to drain?

Stopped before complete drain


3 minutes of idle; with no buzz

Timer advanced to rinse and nothing else happened


I manually turned knob to rinse and rinse began


 Timer advanced to the end of cycle,  and nothing else happened.


Timer reached end of cycle and buzzed



 





Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 17:28 by jerrye

RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 17:24

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It could be the Motor Thermal Overload inside the Motor.

Check to see if the Motor is hot when it shuts off.

 



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jerrye
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 18:28

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Ok, thanks, I'll remove the back and check that.

This is troubling me: I'm hearing 2 levels of hum.  One is loud -- as loud as the buzzer. At other times, I hear a very faint buzz. I have to put my ear to the machine to hear that, and it's stll faint.  But I know I'm not hearing things, because, at other time, I don't even hear the faint buzz.

I should also note that I did another run-through while you were posting last. And I smelled a burning electronics odor along the way.

And while I've been able to trick this thing into doing a final spin and drain (by turning the knob to a different cycle), that trick doesn't always work.  It didn't just now.

jerrye
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 18:42

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the motor does get hot, not hot enough to make me remove the back of my hand immediately, but after about 10 seconds, it's too hot.

the cycle diagram is attached

Attachment: washer cycle.pdf (Downloaded 4 times)

Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 18:59 by jerrye

denrayr
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 19:35

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jerrye wrote: the motor does get hot, not hot enough to make me remove the back of my hand immediately, but after about 10 seconds, it's too hot.

the cycle diagram is attached


 

washer cycle.pdf is corrupt. i downloaded it twice but adobe refuses to open it giving a corrupt file error

RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 20:33

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denrayr wrote: washer cycle.pdf is corrupt. i downloaded it twice but adobe refuses to open it giving a corrupt file error


It didn't work for me earlier either, but I saved the file and renamed it as .jpg and it works.

I found the diagram in a service manual

Attachment: Page from 16010373 16001145 1994-1997 WASHER .pdf (Downloaded 5 times)

Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 20:42 by RegUS_PatOff



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RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 20:55

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If the Timer Motor is turning while it should be Agitating or Spinning,
then the Timer contacts are bad, or the Wash Motor Overload is opening.

If you could check the voltage at the Wash Motor during Agitate or Spin:

White Wire to chassis (ground) = 120v AC = Washer Motor Thermal Overload is OK

which leaves the Timer contacts are bad...

Last edited on Thu Oct 9th, 2008 20:56 by RegUS_PatOff



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jerrye
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 Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 05:23

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If I understand the schematic correctly, 7T is the white wire, and when we took readings before, on  Aug 25th and 29th, the voltage was 0.

So, if that's the case, sounds like the Washer Motor Thermal Overload is not OK?

denrayr
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 Posted: Tue Oct 14th, 2008 06:36

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sorry i lost track of this thread. you will need to set the washer in the agitate portion of the regular cycle. once it starts humming you will need to make 2 voltage checks.

 





 

the first is between yellow and black at the motor. the second is between red and brown at the motor. red indicates hot, and blue indicates neutral.


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