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miketeebo
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Posted: Thu Sep 25th, 2008 21:55 |
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| My wife called me at worked today and stated that the dryer was not working. I got home & checked a few things. I made sure all the wires in the control area were connected and they are. I then noticed that the dryer is still getting hot. Either the mother isn't working or it isn't getting a signal but the heating element is starting and getting hot. Could someone give me an idea as to what & how I can check? Thanks in advance for the help.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Thu Sep 25th, 2008 22:18 |
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110.96576200
The Heating Element shouldn't be connected unless the Motor is turning.
Perhaps the Heating Element is partially shorted to ground (chassis).
The Heater Element is about 10 OHMS and shouldn't be connected at all to ground.
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bcippola
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Posted: Fri Sep 26th, 2008 13:11 |
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Not working? Meaning just not turning but you can here motor? If so check for a broken belt.
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Fri Sep 26th, 2008 14:10 |
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motor centrifugal switch stuck closed would explain heating when motor is off and motor not starting
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miketeebo
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Posted: Sat Sep 27th, 2008 18:30 |
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Ok,
Sorry I didn't respont earlier, was busy the last few days. Is there a place that I can find a wiring diagram?
Checking the heating element I get 9.2 Ohms
When I check either pin on the heating element & touch the side of it's casing I get about 2 Ohms. The top 2 element springs (not sure what they are called) on one side of the element are broken but they aren't touching the case. The element itself still heats up, I don't think the top 2 that are broken work though.
I spun the inside of the dryer & the exaust fan in the back was still spinning with that so I would say the belt is good.
How can I check to see if the "motor centrifugal switch is stuck?" And where or what is it?
Going by what RegUS_PatOff posted I would guess the heating element is bad since I get some reading by touching a pin on the element to the case & get a reading but it is still heating up.
Thanks again for all your help I appreciate it.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sat Sep 27th, 2008 20:51 |
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I can't find the wiring diagram for that particular model.
9.2 OHMS is OK, but 2 OHMS to ground is your problem.
There must be a short at a point about 1/5 of the length of the element (which-ever end you tested).
<----- 10 Ω ----->
L1 o^^o^^^^^^^^o L2 < wiring diagram 
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2 Ω (N) 8 Ω
shortLast edited on Sun Sep 28th, 2008 21:36 by RegUS_PatOff
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miketeebo
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Posted: Sat Sep 27th, 2008 21:38 |
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hahaha nice wiring diagram.
Would you say I need a new one or is that something that I could potentially fix if I found the short?
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Sat Sep 27th, 2008 21:43 |
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needs a new heater element.
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miketeebo
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 21:12 |
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So, I went and got a new Heating Element this afternoon. I put it in and started the dryer up but nothing happened. The timer is clicking so no fuses blown.
I put the old one back in and it heats up, but the new one doesn't.
I checked the new Heating Element and it is 9.6 ohms and is not shorted to ground.
I checked the Thermal Fuse (http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2986&PPStack=1) and it is open. So I guess it is bad too?
I would say the Heating element thermal cut-off fuse is still good. (http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2651&PPStack=1)
How does the old Heating Element get hot but the new one does not? Any ideas? Could there be anything else wrong besides the Thermal Fuse?
Thanks again for the help
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 21:30 |
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as in my previous wiring diagram ,
the Heater is normally connected between L1 & L2 (240v), but not to N (neutral).
When a point of the Heater Element shorted to N (neutral),
that was now the return path for each of the Legs (L1 & L2),
and it would measure 120v between each Leg and Neutral.
Last edited on Sun Sep 28th, 2008 21:38 by RegUS_PatOff
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miketeebo
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 00:23 |
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Ok, got a new Thermal Fuse & the dryer is working now. Thank you for all your help. What stinks is that I replaced both the Thermal Fuse & the Heating Element about a year ago. Probably not good if they go out within a year. Granted we moved since then but still.
Thanks!!!
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 00:57 |
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"I replaced both the Thermal Fuse & the Heating Element about a year ago."
sounds like the vent could be restricted.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 01:03 |
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Make sure your Vent line is not clogged.
Should be rigid metal.
No plastic or PVC. No screws. Should be Foil Tape only.
Make sure there's good air-flow out the back of the Dryer (check with Vent disconnected)
Check the temperature.
With empty load, Hi Heat, Timed Dry, it should cycle somewhere between 135F & 160F.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 01:03 |
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| . Last edited on Tue Sep 30th, 2008 01:04 by RegUS_PatOff
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