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dgr146
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 13:57 |
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Well I've decided to try and just replaced the bearings and shaft seal. Bearings and seal came out pretty easy. I've contacted a local bearing supply company and they've got the bearings for: SKF-Approx $31.00 each, or an off-brand for about $9.00 each. The rep says the cheaper ones are just as good-just not paying for the name. They've got a rubber double lipped seal for about $4.00 or a "vicon" (sp)- for about $20.00--Rep says that one is solvent/chemical resistant--Have not decided on which one to buy yet.
Question: Do I pack grease between the shaft seal and the bearings when I re-assemble, or keep it dry??
ps: The disassembly was only a 3 beer project.
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AccApp
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 14:02 |
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| The bearings are sealed so whatever grease you apply to the shaft will not affect them. It will only make disassembly easier next time. A little grease will help the seal slide over the shaft easier as well, just make sure the seal is installed correctly.
____________________
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
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dgr146
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 14:48 |
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AccApp,
Thanks for the info. Which is the "correct" way to install the seal? It popped out and I forget if the flat side goes towards the bearings or the cupped/recessed side?? I think the flat side was facing away from bearings.?
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AccApp
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 15:20 |
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| Facing away, just make sure the seal is square in the bore. The bearings are long and rigid enough that they pretty much self-align but the seal is so short and flexible it can cock pretty easily. I used big washers and a long bolt to pull the seal in.
____________________
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 15:37 |
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i would like to know how you removed the old bearing and how you plan to installed the new ones. a BFH perhaps?
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To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.
Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM
riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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dgr146
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 16:16 |
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NCSU,
1st: I placed the tub half so the outside bearing was facing up. Then I used a 1/2 inch ratchet extension bar (about 6" long) and placed the wider end(the end that attaches to the wrench-not the socket) thru the outside bearing and against the outer edge of the inside bearing and struck it multiple times with a BFH-changing positions on the bearing throughout--so it came out even.
2nd: I placed the tub on its side, with the outside bearing facing my body-sorta between my legs, and used then same striking method. They actually came out easier than I thought they would. I also didn't realize that the tub has a steel sleeve that the bearings are pressed into.
I am not sure what object I will use to drive the new ones back in, but I will update the post to let fellow readers know how it all works out.
I just can't remember which way the seal was installed--it has a completely flat side and a bowled or concave side hollowed out side. Anyone know???
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 18:13 |
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does this help?
could you post the part#s of the bearings and the seal too?
Attachment: PartImage.aspx.jpg (Downloaded 27 times) Last edited on Wed Sep 24th, 2008 18:17 by NCSU_laundry_tech
____________________
To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.
Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM
riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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dgr146
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 18:52 |
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Thanks for the photo, but doesn't really help. I believe the flat side is out. I just picked up the bearings. I actually went to a different location than planned and went with mid-range price: The original bearings that were removed are: 6306-RSD and 6306-RSD. I replaced them with General Bearings #'s: 6306-2RS & 6307-2RS. They were mid-ranged in the price spectrum, $17 & $22. The shaft seal is a different story.
All they had in stock was an oil seal, which is a single lip, but has a small spring that surrounds the seal lip to keep it tight. This was only $3.00. The size is 40x80x10 metric seal: An SKF Mod# 52736.They said this is not designed for "under pressure" application. I don't know if I'd consider this to be a pressure app or not.
The seal that I removed was a triple lipped seal, but obviously allowed water entry to the bearings. I will research a bit further to look for another seal locally. Not sure if I'll use the SKF or not--wasn't expensive, so no great loss there.
The bearings will be an easy find for anyone, the rep stated they are commonly available throughout US suppliers.
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dgr146
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 18:58 |
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| I also discovered that both shocks were cracked- one completely off, the other cracked at the upper attachment. Order replacements through repairclinic.com: $36.00 for the pair, plus delivery.
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dgr146
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Posted: Wed Sep 24th, 2008 19:00 |
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AccApp,
I just saw your seal install post---Thanks for the advice!!
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dgr146
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Posted: Thu Sep 25th, 2008 14:32 |
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Update on the project: The correct seal number I bought is an SKF-562736, which is a single lip seal, but has spring tension to keep lip in contact. They also have an SKF-562737-which is a double lip design. The supply rep told me the outer lip really doesn't make contact with the shaft, but is designed to be a barrier for larger debris or contaminants- really doesn't add to the sealing properties of the unit. FYI- Both of these parts can be ordered through Advance Auto web site, but were much more expensive than the bearing supplier--over double the cost + shipping.
I'm sticking with the seal I have (562736). Should hopefully have my shocks delivered today and will reassemble this weekend.....I hope.
There is also an SKF 563739-which is same double lip seal but is made of viton, which doubles the price but is over-kill,,,in the reps opinion for this application..it is highly resistant to various chemicals.
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dgr146
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Posted: Thu Sep 25th, 2008 17:18 |
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MAJOR SETBACK!!
Was cleaning up the spin tub and bearing shaft and found what I believe to be a major problem. The finished portion of the shaft, just above the brass area for the seal, seems to have worn to a smaller diameter. I'm talking about the area the inner most bearing slides onto. It is actually smaller than the unfinished portion of the shaft, just above it. The bearing is actually loose when positioned. It will just slide down the shaft and wiggle, where it should be tight or at least snug
How does anybody else's look????
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Thu Sep 25th, 2008 17:36 |
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sounds like youre SOL and need a new basket to me  .
this is why i just order the whole front and rear tub with basket all bolted together already.
____________________
To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.
Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM
riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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dgr146
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Posted: Thu Sep 25th, 2008 21:20 |
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I'm not sinking that kind of money into this POS. I'll be off appliance shopping tomorrow,,,and returning some parts I obviously will not need. Anyone have any more thoughts on what washer will give me the best "bang for the buck???"
Anybody wanna buy some good "used" 417.42042100 parts????
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