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MAH3000AWA Maytag Neptune Model  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 08:34 pm
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Again, door on, unit set for max extract, extra rinse OFF.  Have the control board down and set the unit on the number 3 rinse.  Start the unit and let it run till the lock light comes on, when it does, slowly advance the timer till the drain pump turns on and leave it there.  Do not cheat any of the listed checks, it will only screw with the results. You will want to do the checks below.  We will be using L1 (either the black or the gray wire on the line relay, black box on the right side of the board as an opposite potential).  We are using this instead of ground or neutral because this is a multiplexing circuit with pulses of L1 through it.  Touch it and hold on for a while and you'll see :yikes:   

Red 23 on the P3 connector to either the Black or Grey wire on the line relay. 

Yellow 36 wire on the P3 connector to either the Black or Grey wire on the line relay.

Orange 40 on the P2 connector to either the Black or Grey wire on the line relay.

If all of the results listed yield a result of 24VDC, do all the checks again but this time wiggle the P3 and P2 connectors loose just a tad so we can check the voltage to the pin on the board itself that the Yellow and Orange wires go to.  YOU CAN NOT REMOVE THE HARNESS COMPLETELY when we do this check (if necessary), you only have to loosen it enough to get a meter lead on the pin of the board that corresponds to the yellow, red and orange wires..



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 Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 10:46 pm
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AZBullfrog
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OK, I got your instructions last night...just got off work and went out to do the tests outlined above.

Results:

Prewiggle of the P2 and P3 plugs reading on the outside contacts of the plugs I got 40vdc across the red and yellow wires.  I detected no volts at all on the orange wire.

After wiggling the plugs loose enough to get the probe directly on the pin I read 40vdc on the red and yellow pins and detected no volts again on the orange pin.  I left the plugs on enough to still make contact with the pins and took the second readings off of the pins themselves.

I await further teachings.

I really appreciate the help you are so kind to provide :)


EDIT: I had to put the red meter lead on the black wire and the black meter lead on the red yellow and orange to get a reading.

Last edited on Wed Sep 17th, 2008 10:54 pm by AZBullfrog

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 Posted: Thu Sep 18th, 2008 09:29 am
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I'm assuming your meter may have been set wrong, but that is fine because I had you check the RD wire which is the source of the voltage, unit will not work at all if that is not there.  The lack of return voltage on the Orange 40 wire indicates no return feed from your OOB circuit.  As pictured in prior schematic, you have three in series.  Either one is open, a wire is loose, or a wire is broken.  Behind the console you will see a two wire connector going through or near a hole on the left hand side of the unit into the cabinet (where your wires go through).  This is the first potential loose connection.  You can start by jumping individual wires until your voltage is present at that Orange 40 wire.  You have one switch mounted to one of the shocks, one right in front mounted to the counter weight, and an inertial unbalance switch mounted under the top on the right hand side attached to that balance weight. 



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 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 07:00 am
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jawdtaw
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I am also having this very same issue described above with the same model washer.  I had a repair man come out and they swapped out the motor, the motor control baord and the control board on the panel.  Changed the switch on the door also.  Still does not reach the spin cycle.  Just spins 4 times one way and 4 times the other way.  He now says that it is a timing issue and must replace the timer.  The timer?  What is he talking about?  For now I'll try what the "Guru's" of this subject has suggested and keep following this story.  And for the "repairman", he has not come back or has he returned my phone calls about the timing issue.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 12:13 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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jawdtaw wrote: ... I had a repair man come out and they swapped out the motor, the motor control baord and the control board on the panel.  Changed the switch on the door also.  Still does not reach the spin cycle...   And for the "repairman", he has not come back or has he returned my phone calls ...... and he has all your money ?

I'd be calling someone..

Did he new replacement parts ? Did he replace them at all ?

Check the Trouble-Shooting Flow-Chart in the above Service Manual

You may have been able to replace those parts yourself.

Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).

Last edited on Sun Oct 12th, 2008 12:15 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Oct 13th, 2008 02:27 am
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jawdtaw
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He never asked for payment and said he would call me to see what he could find.  Still has not called.  Yes, he did replace all the parts. I was there watching him the whole time, but I think the parts were used.  His motor stalled, mine at least moved.  So all my original parts are back in, but I did find a loose wire from the timer on pin 3.  Where it goes, I dont know.  It looked like it went to the start button so I place it there(The only pin I saw without a connecter on it).  Now it spins in one direction, but not at max speed.  I Did check the the switches and wax motor on the door and they are working properly.   The wax motor gets real warm though.  And the lock light does go on.  I'm thinking of just buying a whole new set soon.  Getting real frustrated!!!!!

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 Posted: Mon Oct 13th, 2008 06:33 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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The Wax Motor will get warm, it's not actually a motor, but the wax melts and forces the plunger out.

Try the Troubleshooting Flow-Chart in the Service Manual I posted here on page 1 of this thread.

Start on PDF page 43 (and probably then to page 40)

 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 14th, 2008 04:27 am
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jawdtaw
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I followed the Manual.  Started trouble shooting from the beginning with no success.  Even tested the switches for balancing problems.  Saw no burnt resistors.  Voltages and continuity checked out.  I've given up.  Sometimes there are no fixes for junk.  I'll just give in and buy me a new set.  Thanks for the help.  I'll be using this site again for future fixes, and maybe follow up and see if anyone finds this fix for my curiosity.

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