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AZBullfrog
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 05:32 |
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Top? and Bottom? lines...not sure which lines are the top and bottom...
looks like the top line goes to the "c" side of the fabrics switch/hand wash. thru the door lock spin enable switch and is labeled rd 23. The bottom line appears to go to the CONN P2 #4 Out of balance and is labeled OR 40
I'll get up in the morning and check the three OOB switches and hope to hook up with you guys again tomorrow...again, thanks for all the help tonite.
Last edited on Tue Sep 16th, 2008 05:45 by AZBullfrog
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Moostafa
The Ayatollah of Appliance Repair
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 06:40 |
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Hello, my amphibious friend. According to the wiring diagram I have here in my tent, as I lay in my yak skin cot with my four voluptuous, nublie, and verYYY active wives, the points you are looking to check continuity on are located on the machine control board harness P3, pins 1 and 2. I believe you will find that they are red and pink, respectively.
If you will first unplug the washer and then peer intently at the harness connectors under the visual enhancement of a sufficiently luminous, yet dextrous flashlight. You will see test ports which will accommodate your probes quite nicely.
Your diagram may differ, however. Perhaps you would like to take our pungent host up on his offer for you to fax your tech sheet to him? I would offer myself but I'll be, ehh, how do you Ameedicans say, "taking good care of the business." Eh heh, eh heh.
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AZBullfrog
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 14:41 |
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I just faxed two blank pages to you sorry (actually the wife was helping)
I will fax two more to you with the schematics you have so wisely requested.
AZBullfrog
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AZBullfrog
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 15:26 |
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I tested continuity on P3 #1 and #2 it read about 30 ohms...
What is the next step on my path to enlightenment?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 15:31 |
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| Repeat the test with the harness removed from the board, making your measurements on the harness at the same points. This will ensure that we're not reading back through the circuit. Do tell.
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 15:41 |
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| I removed the harness P3, and tested red and pink #1 and #2....it read 0
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 15:55 |
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| how about while you shake the machine somewhat ... ?
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 15:59 |
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| Shook the machine somewhat...still have 0 reading
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 16:03 |
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| When you have a poor or no spin, one of two things happens in the spin part of the cycle. Either the unit spins slowly in one direction, or it continues to tumble back and forth like it is in a wash cycle. Start the unit up on the #3 rinse (Max extract chosen and extra rinse turned off) and let it run there until the lock light comes on. Once it does, SLOWLY advance the timer until you hear the drain pump come on, leave it right there. This cycle should last 7 minutes or so, during the cycle, does the unit spin, but spin slowly in one direction, or do you continue to hear the tumble pause tumble pause pattern all the way till it shuts off.
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AZBullfrog
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 16:07 |
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| Yesterday I did that...it tuned cw 4 or so times, then reversed went ccw 4 or so times. While that was happening I observed the plunger from the wax motor slowly advancing towards the spin micro switch. When the plunger engaged the micro switch the drum just sat still and there was only a hum coming from the machine.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 17:01 |
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| It will sit still for a while as the pump runs but a minute or two later, the tub should start to move again, either spinning, or tumbling. This cycle should take 7 minutes or so from start to finish. If yours is rapid advancing, you could have a different issue, the reason I start it at the #3 rinse and wait till the light is on, is to make sure we take advantage of the complete cycle with the door in the lock position. You do not want to waste time chasing ghosts.
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 17:03 |
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| I'll go and try that again....be back soon
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 17:17 |
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| OK put it on 3, held in both of the door closed relays. Advanced the timer til the pump came on...the door locked light came on...the drum turned slowly ccw about 6 or 8 times, stopped and turned slowly cw about 3 times, stopped and turned ccw 6 or 8 times...and so forth. It never hit the high spin.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 18:16 |
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OK put it on 3, held in both of the door closed relays.
A little baffled by the note above.
Did you have the door on the unit for the test? If you do not, the wax motor can not expand over far enough. If you had the door on the unit and it did this, tumbling means the unit did not see the return signal from the door lock spin enable switch. Jump the yellow to the red wire (pull them off and join them together) and repeat the test to see if it spins.
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 18:52 |
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| OK, I held down the plastic cam on the part that the wax motor plunger engages the first time. I went back and jumped the yellow and red, held the door closed relay shut , put it on #3 and advanced the timer until the pump started. The drum rotated slowly ccw about 10 times, stopped and rotated cw 4 times, stopped and rotated ccw about times, and so forth back and forth...never hit high spin.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 19:41 |
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AZBullfrog wrote:
I removed the harness P3, and tested red and pink #1 and #2....it read 0
Zero is good-- means the OOB system has continuity.
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 19:41 |
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| I await the next step....
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AZBullfrog
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 22:44 |
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| Have I stumped the panel?
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 23:16 |
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| You haven't stumped us, we just had to go back to work!! The board is looking for the 24VDC return on the yellow wire from the switch you jumped, if it does not see it, it will only tumble in the spin cycle. When you have a missing OOB return signal, it will spin, but only slowly like in a test mode. You will want to put the wires back on the switch, put the door on the unit, take the control panel loose and grab a meter that can read DC voltage (24VDC). If you are comfortable doing a few checks up at the board, we should be able to close this with a test or two.
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AZBullfrog
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 23:23 |
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| No fear here...let's do it
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