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MAH3000AWA Maytag Neptune Model  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 04:24 pm
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AZBullfrog
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I have read a lot about this problem on here and would like to know if I am on the right track.  I have a Neptune MAH3000AWA ten years old.  It just started leaving wet clothes in the washer.  I have installed a new pump and insured that the lines are clear both in front of and behind the pump.  I opened the front and the top and observed the wax motor plunger very slowly advancing to close the small micro switch on the fast spin switch.  I exchanged the door closed and fast spin micro switches and still no fast spin.  My washer goes cw three or four times, then cc three or four times while the wax motor plunger is advancing and then just stops and hums.  Could it be the motor control board?  I have examined it and can find no sign of burnt components.  I called the appliance parts store and they said the board is unavailable for my washer without buying a new motor too...total cost is $214.oo plus around $10 for a new wax motor.  Have I missed any steps on the road to do it yourself troubleshooting?

Edit: I found two tall black cylinders on the motor circuit board.  They have CE85 LQM printed on them. They are about a half an inch  across and an inch high.  It looks like clear liquid that is now hard has leaked out of them.  Is this a sign?

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 04:43 pm by AZBullfrog

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 10:56 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Does the door lock light actually light up? Also, the microswitch that the plunger is actuating: is it actually being actuated?



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:01 pm
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AZBullfrog
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Yes, the light on the console lights up.  I detected voltage when the plunger engaged the microswitch.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:28 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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AZBullfrog wrote: .. I found two tall black cylinders on the motor circuit board.  They have CE85 LQM printed on them. They are about a half an inch  across and an inch high.  It looks like clear liquid that is now hard has leaked out of them.  Is this a sign?


It may be hot-melt glue ?

could you post a close-up picture 200k max

 MAH3000AWA Service Manual

Neptune Motor / Controller Bulletin

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:32 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:44 pm
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AZBullfrog
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See attachment...thanks for the help:cool:

Attachment: Washer 002.jpg (Downloaded 73 times)

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:52 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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nice picture ....

yea, that's hot-melt ..

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:52 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:55 pm
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AZBullfrog
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Thanks :cool:

Any ideas on this little problem I have?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:58 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If you're absotootly, posilootly certain that the door lock microswitch is 2) being fully actuated and b) is actually changing state from open to closed then it's time to gradumutate to the OOB system (that's "out of balance" system for those of you in Arizona ;) ). See the wiring diagram inside the control panel. You can ohm out the OOB system from the appropriate harness on the machine control board.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:01 am
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AZBullfrog
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This area OOB might be out of my level of expertise...if I buy a new motor control circuit board will this fix it?  Or am I looking for a problem in an entirely different area?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:11 am
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AZBullfrog
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I just read the OOB section in the manual you sent.  It seems pretty straight forward, I think I can handle checking the three switches out.  According to the flow chart, if all three check out good then it leads to circuit board replacement.  Is that correct?

For what it's worth, the machine doesn't make the noise like "a jet plane taking off" that it used to when the spin cycle kicks in.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:12 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Don't give up! The OOB test is simple stuff. Post a nice picture of your wiring diagram (inside control console) or fax it to me at 866-315-4504 and I'll post it here along with some instructions on where to test. Instructions on making simple continuity tests here:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2004/12/18/appliance-repair-revelation-making-basic-electrical-measurements/

EDIT: There are TWO microswitches that have to be made in the door lock assembly: one is for the lock light and the other is for spin enable. Check both as described above.

Last edited on Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:18 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:17 am
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AZBullfrog
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I looked inside control board...no wiring diagram.  Did you mean up above where the timer is?  Is that where I find a wiring diagram?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:39 am
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AZBullfrog
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Are these the three switches?

Attachment: DSC00412.JPG (Downloaded 61 times)

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:45 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Them be the ones. Natural, by God, you're an ever-lovin' natural! :argh:

Check each one individually. Pull the wires off each terminal on the switches and

- ohm out the switches (open/close when actuated)
- check the spades on the switches and the wires for ca-ca (that's a technical term for "corrosion"). May also find a broken wire at one of the switches.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 12:53 am
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AZBullfrog
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You, my friend are the Sensei...if you were closer I would buy a family sized bottle of Akadama Plum Wine to split with you.  So, open equals 0 ohms and closed equals infinity?  If they check out are we to the point of buying a motor control circuit board?

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the help on this, the wife will think I am a hero...:dude: if I get this fixed.

Do I need to post anymore of the wiring diagram?  I scanned the portion with the three switches, but think I understand how to test them.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 01:14 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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AZBullfrog wrote:
So, open equals 0 ohms and closed equals infinity? 


Other way around. "Open" means "open circuit == no continuity.

If they check out are we to the point of buying a motor control circuit board?

Maybe. Still need to check BOTH the microswitches in the door lock assembly. There are two microswitches that have to be made in the door lock assembly: one is for the lock light and the other is for spin enable. Check both as described above.


Do I need to post anymore of the wiring diagram? I scanned the portion with the three switches, but think I understand how to test them.

Well, you haven't posted *any* wiring diagrams yet. You posted a pictorial diagram showing the locations of certain key components. The wiring diagram has a bunch of lines on with weird symbols and boxes with lines running to 'em and stuff written all in 'em. And, yes, we'll need that.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 01:46 am
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AZBullfrog
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Here is the schematic of the three switches....

Attachment: Schem 3.jpg (Downloaded 51 times)

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 02:13 am
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Is there a part number in the bottom corner for that Wiring Sheet ?

maybe 16xxxxxxxx ?

 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 02:18 am
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AZBullfrog
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Number on the sheet is:

6 2711650-0898

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 Posted: Tue Sep 16th, 2008 02:22 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You got it right there, my young apprentice. If you can read a road map, you can read a wiring diagram. Just gotta learn the rules of the road. In this case, it's even easier-- just follow the top and bottom lines from that column of switches back to the machine control board. I've been known to take colored pencils to wiring diagrams.



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