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Whirlpool Dryer Heats without Start  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 09:07 pm
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gte215r
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I have a Whirlpool dryer from 2000, model ler5636eq3. I have tried to fix it but I must be missing something. Please help as the clothes are stacking up.

If I turn the dial to one of the time settings the heat comes on even with the door open. I have to turn it to an off position to turn off.

I disassembled it and there wasn't anything obviously broken. A couple repair people said that I should replace the motor.

I bought a replacement motor Jason 279827. I've put it in place, no problem. I haven't assembled the whole thing, just attached the door switch. Now I plug it in and whether in the dial is in the time settings or in the off setting there is no heat and the motor isn't spinning. I got the motor to spin once, but when I tried to reassemble it stopped spinning.

What am I missing. The wires are slightly different but the wiring harness plugs in. Do I need to reassemble the whole thing to make it work? Seems like I should push the button and it'll spin but maybe there is another kill switch. Is this a grounding issue? Where the heck do I start? At least I have a new motor now.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 09:56 pm
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1st thing to check would have been  continuity from heater terminal to heater box if the element is shorted to the  box it will heat all the time..I have found bra wires accros the elem..also have found the elem sag till it touchwes the box..ususaly cause by poor air flow.....it is true that a stuck centrifugal switch could cause this it is not likely....

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 Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 10:17 pm
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gte215r
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There aren't any obvious foreign objects in there. The metal is a bit blackened, though I think it is more that the paint is gone. It looks like the element is insulated from the surrounding metal. Any way to test it? There doesn't appear to be any voltage on the housing when the element is running.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 11:41 pm
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LER5636EQ2 Wiring Sheet

Door Switch ?

white Thermal Fuse on Blower Housing ?



Last edited on Sun Sep 14th, 2008 11:43 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 01:38 am
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gte215r
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The whole thing is back where I started now. If I plug in the dryer and turn it to a timer setting the heat immediately comes on whether the door is open or not. If I close the door there is a buzzing/humming sound but the brand new motor does not turn.

I think the switch is doing something and not the issue. Why is the heat coming on immediately, I think that is the root of the issue.

It worked before I reassembled it, but disassembling it didn't make it work again. I really think it is crossed wires but I don't have a clue where to test for it or what normal is.

I took electronics in high school but its been a while.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 01:49 am
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If part of the Heater coil is touching the case (ground), then when the L1 comes thru the Timer to one end of the Heater, it glows... without the need for the other side of the Heater to be connected to L2.

If you could check the voltage across the Heater when it's in that mode.

The Heater coil is about 10 OHMS.

Disconnect the Heater terminals and check for a short to the case.

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 01:50 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 02:29 am
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gte215r
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I'm getting 10 ohms accross with the housing connected to the dryer or not. I tried this with the mode dial set on and the mode dial set to off and same results. I can take off the terminals, what do you want me to measure when the terminals are off?

BTW, any trick to getting them off, they don't want to come?

Please let me know if you need a picture of something and I'll upload it.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 02:43 am
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... Disconnect the Heater terminals and check for a short to the case.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 03:05 am
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gte215r
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I'm a complete novice, so forgive these questions. I disconnected the heater leads, there is infinite resistence between them and between each of them and the case.

Pretty easy to sort out which wire is which now.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 03:09 am
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Then it's either a bad Centrifugal Switch (on the Motor) or a shorted wire somewhere...

oohh.. but you mentioned with the "new" Motor it didn't have the Heater problem...

must be that Switch on the Motor...

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 03:12 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 03:19 am
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gte215r
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Could it really be a bad new motor? The wiring on the motor itself is a little different but the three connections that plug into the harness are in the same positions.

I tested the resistance from the red terminal where power enters the heating element to the red wire coming in from the motor and there is no resistance there. Seems like that should be infinite.

I can't imagine that the new motor could have been fused when I it did run for a couple minutes. I guess I'll take off the motor and try to find the issue there.

Could the humming that happens when I turn it on be realted. I just hear the hum but nothing else happens.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 03:29 am
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Try the new Motor again ...



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 04:04 am
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gte215r
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The plot continues to thicken.

The new motor is showing infinite resistance across the terminals so I know the switch is open. The old motor is showing total resistance across. I plug the old motor back in, put the heater wires back together, everything checks out. I run the old motor and it is just fine. I fiddle with the mode dial, testing it a few ways and it works until it stops working after 30 seconds. Now the old motor is once again showing the circuit wide open, so is the new motor.

The open circuit in the motor is the issue. Now the question is what is forcing it to stay open? Can I trick the motor into closing it again, it happened at least once with the old motor.

I think we're getting closer, hopefully? Could one of the switches be tripping up the motor?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 04:16 am
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The Switch that controls the Heater is called a Centrifugal Switch, it only closes when the Motor is spinning.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 04:21 am
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gte215r
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After plugging and unplugging everything it is working again, I guess I need to be methodical in trying to trip it up.

What could be opening up that centrifugal switch and then killing the motor without closing the switch? I guess I'll go play with it, I just wish I knew what was making it go back to working.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 04:57 am
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gte215r
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I can't seem to trip up the motor that is disconnected (the old one). It is running flawlessly, tested it in each mode setting, opening and closing the door and the start switch.

The motor that is in place (the new one) has all the old symptoms. The circuit is open as long as the mode dial is on a mode, whether or not the door is open. If I do close the door and press the start button there is a loud buzzing but the motor doesn't turn at all. I have taken the fan housing off the back so it is in no way obstructed and the fan isn't moving (obviously).

Before I take out the new motor, is there anything else that I can do/test? I'm a bit perplexed. Could it be something about the housing that is closing the circuit? It isn't the wiring harness because it stays the same.

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 05:01 am by gte215r

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 05:34 am
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gte215r
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OK, now I've put the old motor back in, fan attached, clips, etc. If I push and hold the button the motor runs, when I let off the button the motor stops. If I hold the button for about 10 seconds it clicks and stops, resets about a minute later.

It would run continuous while not in the motor mount.

The new motor is still reading no resistance across the terminals. Somehow it is stuck open.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 05:47 am
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gte215r wrote: OK, now I've put the old motor back in, fan attached, clips, etc. If I push and hold the button the motor runs, when I let off the button the motor stops. If I hold the button for about 10 seconds it clicks and stops, resets about a minute later.

It would run continuous while not in the motor mount. ...
Then the Motor isn't getting up to enough speed to trip the part of the Centrifugal Switch that switches from the Start Windings to the Run Windings.

Maybe the Motor is Week, or the Drum/Blower Wheel is preventing it from reaching it's speed.

gte215r wrote: ...The new motor is still reading no resistance across the terminals. Somehow it is stuck open. RegUS_PatOff wrote: The Switch that controls the Heater is called a Centrifugal Switch, it only closes when the Motor is spinning.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 06:01 am
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gte215r
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Yes, I'm noticing that the issues might somehow be related on the old motor and I wondered if the added resistance of the blower might be enough to keep the run widing from going. The motor originally had issues with the centirfugal switch somehow opening while the motor wasn't running. I never tried the old motor without the drum and blower until tonight.

But this doesn't explain why the replacement motor shows no resistance across the terminals. It has the issues that the old motor once had. Could I have just gotten a bad replacement or could being in my dryer have caused the issue so quickly? I plan to take the replacement and my multimeter to the parts store tomorrow. I'll plan to test Motor #3 throughout the process.

BTW. Thanks for working on this one so late.

Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 06:02 am by gte215r

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 Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 12:27 pm
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K,man wrote:
1st thing to check would have beenĀ  continuity from heater terminal to heater box if the element is shorted to theĀ  box it will heat all the time..I have found bra wires accros the elem..also have found the elem sag till it touchwes the box..ususaly cause by poor air flow.....it is true that a stuck centrifugal switch could cause this it is not likely....

Did you ever check continuity from the heater terminals to ground, as Master K,man wisely suggested? Continuity there would indicate a grounded heating element == new heating element.



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