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goku
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 04:55 |
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I did a load laundry today and came back to a flooded laundry room. The water valve appears to be stuck open until the wash cycle ends.
The water turns on as soon as the washer is turned on and doesn't stop until it is turned off. Switching off the washer stops flow of water
It emptied my 80 gallon HW heater during the cycle. I think the flooding occurred when the washer stopped with the drum full of water. The door opened itself when the wax motor released due to a full drum of water and flooded out.
I could only spin dry the clothes by turning off the hot and cold taps and letting a spin cycle go through.
Does this sound like a control board issue or is it a water level sensors?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 06:59 |
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Here's Maytag's Failed resistor on control board caused by excessive current due to a faulty component
DIY Controller Board Reapir info: Maytag Neptune Main Control Circuit board Repair Information (2000-5500A series)
 Attachment: Page from 16010061.png (Downloaded 60 times) Last edited on Mon Aug 25th, 2008 07:11 by RegUS_PatOff
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Trying to help
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 12:54 |
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| If you access your board behind the control panel you will find the P1 connector. It will have two wires and a space (Depending on series, wires can be Purple and red, or purple and yellow). Start the unit and after it starts filling, pull the connector off the board (this connector has L1 potential on it, grab it carefully) . If the unit continues to fill with water after you have removed this connector, your board is bad and you will need to look for any burn marks and replace the related component. If it stops filling, then your board is good and your problem is in your pressure switch/hose area and I recommend changing both unless you find a wad of lint stuck in the hose.
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goku
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 15:41 |
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I pulled the connector off and the water did not shut off.
Upon examining the board, it did not seem to have burn components but when I took it out, I discover a burn mark on the back (see attachment) just below where P2 is connected. It was bad enough to scorch the plastic retainer the holds the board.
Any ideas what can cause this? The unit was dry so I don't think there was a short circuit due to water. Anybody seen this before?
Attachment: IMG_2407.JPG (Downloaded 50 times)
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goku
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 15:44 |
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One more pic
Attachment: IMG_2409.JPG (Downloaded 50 times)
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Trying to help
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 19:36 |
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| That is the traces to your valve circuit. Look at the blackguard of the unit, did anything spill on it and drip down by any chance? If not, ohm out your hot and cold coils of your valve, they should be approximately the same resistance. Then ohm out your thermistor. If they check good, and neither component shows any shorts to ground (each wire to chassis checking for a path) then you will just need a new board.
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goku
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:05 |
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I'm not sure what the blackguard is.
I checked the resistances and they seemed fine. It would seem to be just the board however I wish I could definitively identify why the traces burned like that. The new board is over $200 so I am worried it could burn out again if the cause is not known. There was no evidence of anything dripping on it.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:08 |
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Part link to control board:
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=775784
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 13:58 |
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| When I have the complaint you have (overfilling and traces across the bottom of the board burnt) I ohm the components and check for shorts. If none are found, the result has always been just a bad board. The blackguard should of been backguard. The aluminum panel behind the control panel. I have had spills from above the unit run down and short those traces as well. You usually see the liquid trail or evidence of the spill on the unpainted aluminum panel that the board actually attaches too. Usually the signs will be there if it was a spill. Check your PM messages at the top of the page.
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wagstdy
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Posted: Sat Aug 30th, 2008 17:59 |
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Can you scrape the affected area clean and then follow the 2 traces to locations on the board where it would be possible to solder jumper wires? i.e. where the traces are wider and further apart from one another.
Considering the cost of a new board, this might be worth a try.
Maybe also chamfer the corner of that plastic bracket adjacent to where the failure on the board occurred so that subsequent failures will be less likely?
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