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Stevieb
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 15:16 |
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My dryer will start right up when I turn the Start dial, but as soon as I release it, it turns off. It has the kind of dial that gives a momentary charge to the motor which turns it on, then springs back to the original position. The drum turns as long as I hold the dial to start. I've checked for continuity at the start dial and the door switch and they're ok. She's very clean inside, and the venting is spotless. Thanks.
P.S. It's a gas dryer
Last edited on Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 19:40 by Stevieb
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bcippola
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 19:18 |
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Those start knobs are crap.Replaced many. Just a guess but try bypassing the start button. Just watch that 220v and see if motor stays on. If not then back 2 square 1. Sorry.
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 21:45 |
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i suspect the belt switch, saw this happen once on a GE dryer
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Stevieb
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 22:24 |
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I bypassed the switch and it works fine, drum turns and heat is produced. But that's just like standing there holding it in the start position. I'm not sure that would indicate a bad switch. My understanding of how the switch works, and backed up by the wiring diagram, is that it's supposed to give the motor a "momentary" jolt then the motor starts. Whadda ya think?
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Stevieb
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 22:25 |
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Belt switch? I dunno, the drum turns fine when I hold the start switch. It just stops when I let go.
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bcippola
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 22:46 |
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If I was a guessing man and at times I am I would guess the start switch still. Use the parts site on this forum part # WE4X881 and if not you can always return it.
Last edited on Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 22:47 by bcippola
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NCSU_laundry_tech
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Posted: Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 22:47 |
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yes the belt switch is only in the motor circuit on the run windings not the start windings.
Attachment: gedryer.jpg (Downloaded 34 times) Last edited on Fri Aug 22nd, 2008 22:49 by NCSU_laundry_tech
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To alcohol! The cause of... and solution to... all of life's problems.
Doc Watson - Shady Grove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-kaG1NuLZM
riding my dirtbike in clayton NC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnCmY0vzmYM
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008 00:15 |
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I'm with NCSU_laundry_tech, sounds like the Belt Switch (Idler Spring Switch), but at $63 , other users have
by-passed it, but then if the Belt breaks, it won't stop the Motor (and Blower Wheel) nor stop the Heat.
click on picture
Last edited on Sat Aug 23rd, 2008 00:18 by RegUS_PatOff
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008 12:19 |
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No need to bypass it or pay the ripoff GE price of $63.
Just take the old switch out, (or maybe if you're lucky maybe just a burnt or broken wire to the switch), and take it to any electronic store, or maybe even RadioShack and purchase a standard, (15amp or whatever the original switch is rated at), Cherry switch that should cost less then $10.00
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Stevieb
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008 14:47 |
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Could you show me where the belt switch is on the diagram? Also, where would it be located in the washer? I'm not an electrician (yet) but I do like to tinker 
Many thanks to all repliers.
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certified tech group 51
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies
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Posted: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008 15:42 |
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In the diagram/parts list , it is next to the motor, left side, long arm that holds the idler roller, With the belt on, the long arm will push on the switch, closing the run winding circuit ( holding down the start button, you are running on the start winding).....The parts list calls it 'interlock switch'...(special order) my listing may not be updated..... the switch on the older W/P dryer door switch, P/N 347207, new number 279347 should work, at $16.00 repairclinic......
Last edited on Sat Aug 23rd, 2008 15:43 by certified tech group 51
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Sun Aug 24th, 2008 10:28 |
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certified tech group 51 wrote: ( holding down the start button, you are running on the start winding).
No, if you look at the diagram again, this one doesn't run on the start windings when you hold the start switch in to keep it running, you could actually tape the start switch down or bypass it till you could get the belt switch fixed and it wouldn't be hurting the motor at all like it would on some setups.
Once the motor gets up to speed the centrifical switch takes the start windings out of the circuit and you are just powering the motor thru the start switch contantly instead of thru the belt switch circuit which bypasses the start switch once it's running.
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Stevieb
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Aug 24th, 2008 16:01 |
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Victory!!!!
It was the belt switch after all! (idler spring switch)
The guys at the appliance repair store told me "no way that's the problem" and "I've never even sold one of these before." They said it wouldn't even run at all if the belt switch was busted. But I bought it anyhow along with a new start switch. The part was discontinued but they had a substitute for 7 bucks! When I took the old one out, the button on the side of it was totally inoperative. Can't wait to tell them on Monday what it was when I return the start switch. 
You guys rock and thanks again for your time and valuable insight. I never could have done it alone. 
Last edited on Sun Aug 24th, 2008 16:05 by Stevieb
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