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Kenmore (Frigidaire) Front Loading 417.42042100

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 06:48 pm

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1robert
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Oh honorable one,

I seek your assistance.

When wash cycle is initiated the washer fills alright and shuts off water. It does not continue past this point. If I turn the dial to spin, the pump will remove the water from the tub, but will not turn off when water is out.

I performed the diagnosis checks on the Tech Sheet, checking for power, motor movement, and voltages. All are okay.

Fuse is okay.

If I am using my multimeter correctly (?) there is no resistance between the subject pins (1,2, & 3) on the 6 pin plug.

Should I replace the Speed Control Board or might I be using the multimeter incorrectly to get these readings??

Thank you.

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 08:18 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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1robert wrote: ... I performed the diagnosis checks on the Tech Sheet, checking for power, motor movement, and voltages. All are okay...
Does the Drum Motor Spin OK during any of the Diagnostic Tests ?

Does the Timer Motor move at all in any part of any Cycle ?

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 05:06 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 08:43 pm

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1robert
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Thank you for your response oh great RegUS_PatOff.

The Drum Motor does not spin during any of the diagnostic tests.

I have not witnessed the dial (and I am assuming that is what is attached to the Timer Motor, please excuse my ignorance) move at all without the aid of my neophyte digits (hand).

In looking at parts I am a bit confused. The Tech Sheet (found in the washer innerds) speaks of replacing the "Speed Control Board."

I have found a "Spin Control Board Assembly" for $119

a "Control Board, automatic water temperature" for $84

a "Control board" for $63

and a "Speed cont-Mallory/Sole motor (CONTROLLER ASSY)" for $140

too many languages for me to understand.

thank you, oh kind one, for your expert advise.

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 08:52 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Kenmore (Frigidaire) 417.42042100 Parts Manual

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 09:18 pm

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1robert
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Cool! Thank you.

What did my answers to . . .

Does the Drum Motor Spin OK during any of the Diagnostic Tests ?

Does the Timer Motor move at all in any part of any Cycle ?

. . . tell you?

Thank you, oh kind one, for your expert advise.

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 09:39 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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If the Timer was bad, it wouldn't send the voltage to the Washer Motor.

If you could check the voltage at the Timer Motor and see if it does advance...

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 09:56 pm

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1robert
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I just found another post with a seemingly like problem.

the advice offered was:

A FRG washer that *stalls* in a cycle and not advancing to the final high speed spin cycle was a common complaint up until a bulletin was published addressing the problem.

According to FRG--the timer contacts were producing electrical *noise* which interfered with the motor controller function(a pc board located at the rear corner of the washer).

A revised part was introduced that had *noise filters* added to isolate the fuzzy confusion from the timer contacts.

Your original motor controller part number is: 131770700

The new controller number is : 134306000.

This sounds like my problem and the solution I need. Concur?

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 10:26 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: If you could check the voltage at the Timer Motor and see if it does advance...

do you have a refference to that thread or the bulletin ?

Last edited on Sun Aug 17th, 2008 10:30 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 10:54 pm

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1robert
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yes, I've located the info in a couple of places:

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-412.html

http://servicetechhelp.com/Docs/1249.html

Additional:
I found this:
http://appliancepartsblog.com/2007/06/11/frigidaire-washer-spin-board-control-assembly-134149220.aspx

which says that Part No. 134306000 has now been replaced by part No. 134149220

if I'm understanding this correctly (enhanced by >2 brews at this point) part no. 131770700 was replaced by part no. 134306000 which was replaced by part no. 134149220.

I would like to be sure that I'm ordering both the part that is most likely to correct my washer's condition as well as the most updated version of that part.

Thank you again, oh great RegUS_PatOff one.

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 11:00 pm

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1robert
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and . . .

through the amazing power of computing and the excellent resource of this board, I found this: (!!!)

http://applianceguru.com/forum2/12118-1.html

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 11:09 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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yes, that is the replacement Motor part number, but

1robert wrote:
yes, I've located the info in a couple of places:

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-412.html

Does yours: "...just moves back and forth. Like trying to balance the load."

1robert wrote: http://servicetechhelp.com/Docs/1249.html

Does yours: "By manually advancing the timer to the next step in the cycle or by turning the washer's power off and on , the electrical noise is discharged and the washer will perform until electrical noise may happen to interfere once again." ? ?

Last edited on Sun Aug 17th, 2008 11:12 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 11:32 pm

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1robert
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Ahhh, Ohhhh, Ahhhh . . . that is why you are the Great One.

The answers are No, and No.

So, what should I try next?

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Posted: Sun Aug 17th, 2008 11:40 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: If you could check the voltage at the Timer Motor and see if it does advance...

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 12:16 am

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14^th Post

1robert
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Thank you.
I took the top off to get access, but I'm having trouble identifying which wire to check voltage on. Can you help?

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 12:18 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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the 2 black wires...

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 12:39 am

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1robert
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you are fantastic, pictures are very helpful.
with some contortionist efforts, I got the voltage tester on the connectors of the two black wires (at the red circle). I then started a cycle. The tub filled with water and shut off, and that was that. it showed no voltage across the two lines before, during, or after.

Should I have tested voltage across the two wires or between each wire and the ground?

Thank you again for your assistance.

Attachment: 00307757.jpg (Downloaded 97 times)

Last edited on Mon Aug 18th, 2008 01:08 am by 1robert

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 07:53 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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The movement of the timer is controled by the speed control/motor control board, that timer motor, (at the two black wires in the circle), will only have 120volts when the signal is sent from the controller board.

I've never seen one of these timers be bad, (doesn't mean it can't), but I would say that 90% of the time when you have no tumble or spin it's the door latch/lock switch or speed control/motor control board, (most of the time the controller board).

If you read your tech sheet and check that your are getting 120volts to the controller board, (with timer dial at "REGULAR" wash cycle and pulled out "ON"), at terminals 5 and 6, (the black/red? and the white wire), If you are getting 120volts here I can pretty much assure you that the speed control/motor control board is bad, (even if the fuse isn't blown).

Need to make sure you're checking the correct terminals on the six pin plug also, 1 is at the bottom and 6 is at the top.

Need to also recheck the ohms on pins 1-2, 2-3, and 3-1 with plug disconnected and checking in the plug itself not the board. These are the motor windings and all should read 2.6ohms +/- 7%, (MAKE SURE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED WHEN DOING THIS TEST). If you are not getting any readings at all from this test then the motor would seem to be the problem or maybe the plug at the motor came loose somehow, (I've never seen one of these motors go bad either except for a couple that were noisy from the bearings going out). Your meter should be set at the lowest ohms setting for this test.

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 06:27 pm

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18^th Post

1robert
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Thank you Willie,

I'm stumped.

To summarize:
When wash cycle is initiated the washer fills alright and shuts off water. It does not continue past this point. If I turn the dial to spin, the pump will remove the water from the tub, but will not turn off when water is out.

The motor is not moving the tub at all.

I performed the diagnosis checks on the Tech Sheet:

I checked and wiggled all connectors, they all seem fine.

I checked voltages. All are okay.
("Set the timer to the Heavy Wash position of the Regular wash cycle. Remove the ten pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltage between pins 1,2,6,and 10 of the ten pin plug to pin 5 of the 6 pin plug on the harness. The voltage at pins 2,6,and 10 should read 120 vac and 0 vac at pin 1.")

Fuse is okay.

This morning I borrowed a digital tester and checked the ohms on pins 1-2, 2-3, and 3-1 in the 6 pin connector of the harness going to the control board. All three read 2.6 ohms.

I verified the pin numbers I was checking were correct.

The two questions I have are:

1. Should I have tested voltage across the two wires at the timer motor or between each of the wires and the ground?

2. What should I check out next?

Thank you again for your assistance.

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 07:00 pm

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jambatt
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As Willie stated, 110v will only be present on the two black wires for approximately 2 seconds. this is the signal for the the timer to advance to the next cycle. This signal comes from the speed control board and is difficult to near impossible to read with a digital meter because it is so short in duration. A new speed control board ordered through this site is returnable if this does not solve your problem. OBTW if the 10 pin harness is taped to the drain hose and /or runs through the same cable tie that holds the drain hose to the bottom of the cabinet, completely isolate the harness from the drain hose. Movement in the drain hose at the same time that the speed contol board is signaling the timer can cause a momentary loss of signal to the timer and the machine will stall out. Took me four days to find this little varmit.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1206430&PPStack=1

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Posted: Mon Aug 18th, 2008 07:22 pm

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1robert
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Thank you jambatt.

I got out my 35 yr. old voltage meter with a needle and tried to catch a reading across those two wires in operation. I got nothin'.

If this 2 seconds of 110 vac is coming from the control board, is there a way to pick up a reading off the back of one of those connectors coming from the board?

Is there another test I should try short of putting a new control board in?

And, I noticed something else I might mention. After the water shuts off, there is a very slight hum coming from somewhere. I've stuck my ear all over the damn thing and can't figure out where the hum originates. It's very slight.

Also, the wire harness between the control board and the timer was strapped to the drain hose, very loosely and with lots of slop, so I don't think it would be an issue on this washer.

Kind regards.

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 02:07 am by 1robert

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